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Best Extended Reach Tools for Milling?


parallax7761@comcast.net
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Hi everyone, I have to Mill a large diameter deep pocket into some 6061-T6. One of the challenges on this job is the reach and perhaps finishing of the walls. My go to is usually the Mitsubishi AXD line of tooling because those inserts leave a beautiful finish on the walls. Only problem is the two arbors we have now Aren't quite long enough. We have the MITSUBISHI 1.5 DIA. 3FL AXD4000UR1503A CUTTER on a Command Arbor with about 4" reach and the 2.0 MITSUBISHI AXD4000UR0203A CUTTER on a 22711-4 TECHNIKS HOLDER Which I believe is around 5" reach (being used now or Id have more accurate value) Anyhow the minimum reach I would like to achieve is 6.25" I was hoping some of you might be able to share what tools you use to reach over 6 inches deep or possibly if you know of any longer Arbors for the aforementioned cutters. Any insights or help are always appreciated!

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What size do you need?

I recently used an Ingersoll S062T10CA-80 (https://www.ingersoll-imc.com/product/4542998) That's 8" long @ .625 with an indexible end (I used a 3/4" head 12J1D-07008TRR01 (https://ingersoll-imc.com/product?ecatProductId=4461233) for my application.    Works great, but I needed it to be smaller.  Also, if you do long reach tools, one thing to keep in mind is that you need to have a decent chip load or they'll vibrate.  In my example, I figured out to feeds & speeds for a .005" DOC finish pass in 420 Stainless.  One of the parts only had .002 or so left, and the surface finish was crap.  When it had .005" left, I got a 20RA and .008µ (.0003") flatness.

One thing I recently learned is that Haimer (I thought of them primarily as a holder company) is the ones who developed the Duo-Lock interface, now commonly used by Kennametal.  Kennametal only offers the duo-lock extensions in "heavy metal," which gives good damping characteristics, but if you really need carbide, you can get it from Haimer. 

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Thanks everybody, for your input. In this scenario I didn't need to reach in any tight spaces, so I went with a longer Arbor for our AXD cutter. Aaron, thanks for sharing those facts about long reach and keeping a chip load. I can remember the first time I ran a long 4" LOC 3/4" 3 flute on aluminum and it looked beautiful, then I wanted to bring the outside dimension in a little bit and put like .001 or .002 wear on it ran it again and the finish was a chattered mess.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey all, the part's keep getting deeper. I am now trying to achieve 10.125" depth. I see Tim Johnson uses a 10" gage length arbor for his 50 taper. The shop I am currently at only has CAT40. We are also contemplating just roughing the part out for our Lathe Dept. to make it more manageable and looking for a 10.125" reach boring bar instead. Thankfully the part is round with walls that finish around .06 thick. It looks sort of like a clothes dryer drum that has a 16.5 OD and just under 11" OAH, with a milk jug like reduced diameter neck for about 2 inches on one end of the part's height. I think I recall seeing some extremely long CAT40 taper Blanks at my last shop where you could machine any adapter arbor end you'd need does anyone know where to find something like that? All suggestions appreciated as always!

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51 minutes ago, [email protected] said:

Hey all, the part's keep getting deeper. I am now trying to achieve 10.125" depth. I see Tim Johnson uses a 10" gage length arbor for his 50 taper. The shop I am currently at only has CAT40. We are also contemplating just roughing the part out for our Lathe Dept. to make it more manageable and looking for a 10.125" reach boring bar instead. Thankfully the part is round with walls that finish around .06 thick. It looks sort of like a clothes dryer drum that has a 16.5 OD and just under 11" OAH, with a milk jug like reduced diameter neck for about 2 inches on one end of the part's height. I think I recall seeing some extremely long CAT40 taper Blanks at my last shop where you could machine any adapter arbor end you'd need does anyone know where to find something like that? All suggestions appreciated as always!

I have heard really good things from our customers about these Sandvik Silent Tools https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/tools/tooling-systems/turning-centres-and-lathes/silent-tools, I was told they are not cheap but work really well, others may have some better suggestions but silent tools are the first thing that comes to my mind when i think of Long reach boring bars

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Excellent info, I am currently looking at this extended hydraulic holder SANDVIK 930-I40-P-20-145. and then looking for some kind of solid carbide indexable extension to put a center cutting endmill head on. I looked at some of the longest solid carbide 20mm dia. tools to go in the holder but it was only getting me about 9 inches of reach so far. Corey does Arch do any rotating tools for milling also, I'll check the site out more but the link just took me straight to their lathe tools

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I am going with the SANDVIK 930-140-P-20-145 ($1011.83 on MSC) with a Mitsubishi (DIAEDGE) Extension IMX20-U20N110L180C for Exchangeable Head End Mills with this Mitsubishi head IMX20C3A220R32018 Which should give me 11.219" of reach on a CAT40 taper machine! I hope they buy it for me, the Mitsubishi products are in the quoting process so we will see what my supplier/distributer says tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, I'll post back as soon as things progress.

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For the record, I do not think Arch has any dampened milling tools. The only line I have came across that has anything like that is Sandvik. I will ask a couple of my vendors as they come in. The route you are going is probably the best alternative.

I use a 1.575 inserted Sandvik dampened mill sticking out 7.866 gauge length and have very good results. They are expensive, but for the products we make here they are a must.

You are really sticking out there for length to diameter ratio. Let us know how it works.

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4 hours ago, lowcountrycamo said:

I have noticed on all 10 2.0" AXD we have is that they measure 1.990 - 1.992.  I have asked out Mits rep to find out why and he came back with shrugged shoulders, "maybe to compensate for runout?"  I finished walls with these occasionally, so I started modeling them to that size.  

Yes the 1.5 inch AXD is the same way. My setup guys know if the tool list says 1.5 Dia. AXD(old program) They will need to run .004 radial wear because the tool is much closer to 1.492. They also know if I have the tool list specifies a tool dia. of 1.492 for the same tool they better turn off the wear. Honestly, I keep most of it as 1.5 to avoid any issues of forgetting to turn it off from old programs. 

On a slightly unrelated note, does anyone know where they explain Diameter vs. Radial Wear for Haas machines. There are a few guys on the floor that still get confused and think Radial wear has more control. But from my understanding If you use .001 of radial wear it would change the diameter of a bore by .002 and thus using .001 diameter wear would only change the diameter of that bore by .001 making it the finer tuning method. 

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On 11/10/2022 at 9:50 AM, Aaron Eberhard said:

Also, if you do long reach tools, one thing to keep in mind is that you need to have a decent chip load or they'll vibrate.  In my example, I figured out to feeds & speeds for a .005" DOC finish pass in 420 Stainless.  One of the parts only had .002 or so left, and the surface finish was crap.  When it had .005" left, I got a 20RA and .008µ (.0003") flatness.

I agree with you on this, regarding finish, but how do you get the heavy chipload AND a straight wall (minimum deflection)?   Everytime I try, I have to take a spring pass, which results in a less desirable finish.

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  • 10 months later...
On 12/8/2022 at 4:49 PM, MIL-TFP-41 said:

Little late to the party on this one, but Precision Components has the longest "Standard" holders that I am aware of.

Not a huge fan, but no one is a fan of a 10" tool projection on a 40 taper machine.

https://pctooling.com/

 

 

On 12/8/2022 at 9:02 PM, JB7280 said:

I agree with you on this, regarding finish, but how do you get the heavy chipload AND a straight wall (minimum deflection)?   Everytime I try, I have to take a spring pass, which results in a less desirable finish.

Precision Components now makes dual contact holders. I have two 1/2" X 9" long CAT50 DC holders coming in.

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On 12/8/2022 at 9:02 PM, JB7280 said:

I agree with you on this, regarding finish, but how do you get the heavy chipload AND a straight wall (minimum deflection)?   Everytime I try, I have to take a spring pass, which results in a less desirable finish.

Sorry JB, I missed this!

The trick is, of course, that you have to compensate for deflection on your wear.   The best way I've found to do that is to simulate the real world by actually cutting a part to a known dimension a few times, so you can figure out how much to take, then, do a semi-finish leaving exactly that amount to best of your abilities.  It doesn't have to be a big part, generally, a bore in a 1" thk plate is often more than enough.  

What you need to figure out is that you need to leave, say, .005 for enough chip load to get a good finish, BUT, if you take a .005 deep cut, your tool will deflect .0003.   That means that you need to offset your wear comp to add in that .0003 in one go.

Now, if the deflection is going to change because of thin-wall characteristics of the part.  Say you have a flange at the top (adding rigidity), and a solid floor, but a mostly unsupported middle section, then I recommend popping off to the bar to think about your life's choices that lead you to being in this situation...   And figure out a way to brace the middle section with a temporary flange or something that keeps it stable.

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16 hours ago, Aaron Eberhard said:

What you need to figure out is that you need to leave, say, .005 for enough

Blah Blah Blah, just throw some talent at it!!! This is fast becoming a lost art sadly. Not enough guys on the shop floor passing on the tricks of the trade. The result of letting computers do the thinking is that "we" think less.

What you explain here is more normal to me and common practice. Has no one ever had to millbore a precision hole?

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51 minutes ago, cruzila said:

Blah Blah Blah, just throw some talent at it!!! This is fast becoming a lost art sadly. Not enough guys on the shop floor passing on the tricks of the trade. The result of letting computers do the thinking is that "we" think less.

What you explain here is more normal to me and common practice. Has no one ever had to millbore a precision hole?

Yep.  Sometimes there's no replacement for just figurrin' stuffs out...

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On 10/13/2023 at 4:53 PM, Aaron Eberhard said:

Sorry JB, I missed this!

The trick is, of course, that you have to compensate for deflection on your wear.   The best way I've found to do that is to simulate the real world by actually cutting a part to a known dimension a few times, so you can figure out how much to take, then, do a semi-finish leaving exactly that amount to best of your abilities.  It doesn't have to be a big part, generally, a bore in a 1" thk plate is often more than enough.  

What you need to figure out is that you need to leave, say, .005 for enough chip load to get a good finish, BUT, if you take a .005 deep cut, your tool will deflect .0003.   That means that you need to offset your wear comp to add in that .0003 in one go.

Now, if the deflection is going to change because of thin-wall characteristics of the part.  Say you have a flange at the top (adding rigidity), and a solid floor, but a mostly unsupported middle section, then I recommend popping off to the bar to think about your life's choices that lead you to being in this situation...   And figure out a way to brace the middle section with a temporary flange or something that keeps it stable.

My question was more regarding the actual "angle" of the tool deflection. From my experience, I find that if I take a heavy enough chip, I get deflection, and a tapered wall.  Using radius comp will just move the position of the taper.  Sometimes it seems like a spring pass is the only way to get rid of that taper, which can sometimes result in a bad finish.  

On 10/14/2023 at 9:24 AM, cruzila said:

Blah Blah Blah, just throw some talent at it!!! This is fast becoming a lost art sadly. Not enough guys on the shop floor passing on the tricks of the trade. The result of letting computers do the thinking is that "we" think less.

What you explain here is more normal to me and common practice. Has no one ever had to millbore a precision hole?

So asking questions isn't allowed anymore?  In my opinion, that mindset, is part of why this is becoming a lost art.  

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