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Screw on Endmills *Long reach*


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Picked up a new customer and they are throwing some challenging parts at me. 4"-6" deep pockets with 1/4 corner radius with a 1/4 radius fillet at the bottom of the pocket. The webs between the pockets are .060 thick. Right now I'm roughing with long solid carbide tools but I saw a post by a member of a different forum a while back in the archives about his luck with the screw on type endmills. His application was 1" dia about 18" long

Is anyone using these for deep pocketing? Will I do better than long shank tools? Right now I'm rotating between Destiny tool and Helical Solutions cutters.

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Maybe some with some defib technology in them will so what you are after. Ph Horn comes to mind, just not sure of the reach of their solid carbide tools. 6" deep with 1/2 endmills in Aluminum I have no problem tackling. Now come back with a .06R in a 6" deep and I will ask what engineer needed his hands slapped with the ruler. J/K

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Maybe some with some defib technology in them will so what you are after. Ph Horn comes to mind, just not sure of the reach of their solid carbide tools. 6" deep with 1/2 endmills in Aluminum I have no problem tackling. Now come back with a .06R in a 6" deep and I will ask what engineer needed his hands slapped with the ruler. J/K

 

What is your strategy for these parts?

Right now this is my process

 

Drill a 1" hole in the center with an indexable drill.

Go in with a 3/4 and rough it all out within .030

Go in with a 1/2 with 2.250 reach and get what I can to .010 stock

Finish 1/2 with 2.250 reach comes in and finishes

Go in with a 1/2 with 4.0 reach and get what I can

Finish with 1/2 with 4" reach

 

I was thinking something like a sanvik but not sure if they go down that small?  Or if its worth straying from carbide.

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I never like to use 1/2" tools in 1/4" Rad Corners. I MUCH prefer a 12mm tool. I can at least interpolate an arc in there.

 

JM2CFWIW

you Yankee boys will go metric yet!

 

For the 1/4 radius, 1/4 bottom: If you can tweak the geo to allow a bit of tool movement - say make the corner rad 0.255" this would help.

I would tend to flat the top, drill the corners on the correct arc points down to 1/4 from the bottom, and then drill out the rest with a reduced shank 1/2" ball nose. If you use a G73 with .01" pecks, and stay off the bottom by a couple of thou.

Then when you finish profile, it will whisker the bottom.

 

What I would also say (and not being a smart arse) - is that this type of work can be soul destroying. It can eat time and tooling, and you can quickly loose your shirt on it

So your initial statement of 'picked up another customer and they're throwing me challenging work' I would question - has their other suppliers dropped the work because of difficulty or can't make money on it or are you too cheap!

Just be careful imo.

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What I would also say (and not being a smart arse) - is that this type of work can be soul destroying. It can eat time and tooling, and you can quickly loose your shirt on it

So your initial statement of 'picked up another customer and they're throwing me challenging work' I would question - has their other suppliers dropped the work because of difficulty or can't make money on it or are you too cheap!

Just be careful imo.

Ive done quiet a bit of work like this but normally it was maybe a project every couple months. This new customer is like a new project every couple weeks with very similar parts. I was hoping to invest in some tooling to make it easier but seems like investing in some 12mm cutters would be the way to go.

 

There is plenty of money there....Just wanted to invest in my process :)

 

I thought maybe the screw on cutters offered some sort of devibe that would be worth it.

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We use Iscar Multi-Master endmills when we have to do pockets like that. Milling a 1/2" slot 4" deep in 316ss, I use a .472" feedmill-style tip to rough and a .472" bull-nose to finish the walls and fillets. Works like a champ, especially since EDM is out of the question. These would be my first stop when looking into tools for your type of work.

 

Just make sure you look into getting a quality tool holder as well.

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I have had good luck with them. +1000 to carbide shank. also use a metric shank and a Inch thread on head to give me added or extended relief. I feel its a good thing to have in your toolbox. Might not always be the fastest but at times it will get you out of a jam.

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Good quality shrink holders are the only way to go. We use them all the time  very seldom use collet chucks (got lots of them collecting dust)

Shrinks are a bit of an initial investment, but last for ever when looked after and extend cutter life

 

Did I hear right ????? America and metric in the same sentence :)

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