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mirek1017
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5 minutes ago, Mark VIII said:

Try a 4.0" diameter Mitsubishi insert mill.

On .09" thick? Sorry, but I would try small tools to keep the pull up form the tool as small as possible. Another thing would be a left hand cutting tools that forces the part down onto the fixture verse a right hand cutting tool that is always pulling the part off the fixture.

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18 minutes ago, C^Millman said:

On .09" thick? Sorry, but I would try small tools to keep the pull up form the tool as small as possible. Another thing would be a left hand cutting tools that forces the part down onto the fixture verse a right hand cutting tool that is always pulling the part off the fixture.

thanks Ron 

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2 hours ago, master80 said:

Hello All ,nest week I will get some rework to do ,I have to cut some packet in .09 thin sheet  1018 steel .

Lets say the fixture will be good and now to big vibration ,what tools I should use ?

Rougher ,finisher ,small spiral ??

thanks for any reply 

From my experience Dyanmic Motion produces less chatter and better results on thin parts, I suggest a Solid Carbide tool with a dynamic toolpath for roughing and just a contour for finishing. I really think dynamic will produce a better path for that application. 


What are your concerns or why do you ask because it seems like a simple task, are you worried about chatter, Is the fixture that this is being placed on supporting the entire length of the material because if the part fits well on the fixture and its clamped well I dont think that thin material would be problematic. If you were using a vice for workholding then .09" material could be problematic but as long as you are clamping onto the top of the sheet metal straight down into a solid fixture it should cut like butter.

Edit: if possible put the clamping force as close to the edge of the cut as possible.

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1 hour ago, C^Millman said:

On .09" thick? Sorry, but I would try small tools to keep the pull up form the tool as small as possible. Another thing would be a left hand cutting tools that forces the part down onto the fixture verse a right hand cutting tool that is always pulling the part off the fixture.

To expand on this a bit, Ron is talking about Compression Endmills, also known as "down spiral", which is essentially a reversal of the helix of the tool. This is different from a "left hand endmill", where the "hand of the cut" is reversed, but the spiral is still an "up cut" spiral.

I would use the smallest diameter possible for your application, which should reduce tool pressure somewhat. If you are separating that "curved" section in your picture, then I would probably attempt to "slot cut" the contour, to remove that whole piece as a "chunk", rather than turning it into chips. The advantage being the reduction in machine time.

Mastercam has an option in the Contour Toolpath for varying the height of the cutter along the cut. If there is clearance below that .09 sheet, then you could use this "sewing machine motion" to help spread the wear across the entire flute length. It might also help to prevent chatter, by breaking up the harmonics of the cut, since the contact area on the cutting flutes is constantly shifting up/down.

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8 minutes ago, Goldorak said:

1/8 or 3/16 variable helix end mill on a 2D contour with an osiliate move to get an even wear all along the flute length 

 

this should do the job easily

yes ,I will start fro 1/4 carbide end mill . I  looking around 5 minutes for 1 pcs + set up 

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