Frank Caudillo

Finish Endmills for Annealed 17-4

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Trying to get a good wall finish without having to take a 3M disc grinder to buff the surface to remove tool marks. The parts were originally finished with a 7 flute Melin and now we're trying a 9 flute, as well as a 3 flute, 60 degree helix endmill from Melin, as well. Any recommendations that I should try?

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51 minutes ago, Frank Caudillo said:

Any recommendations that I should try?

Need make of machine, LOC and diameter

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5 minutes ago, nickbe10 said:

Need make of machine, LOC and diameter

Machine is a 40 taper Kiwa KH-45 Horizontal .5" diameter x 1.25" loc. Fixture setup is really solid on dovetails, so nothing hanging out in no man's land.

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14 minutes ago, Frank Caudillo said:

40 taper Kiwa KH-45 Horizontal

I think that many flutes is going to cause more problems than it solves, especially if you are working an "inside profile). Although you might think you are very rigid, a horizontal machine is always naturally unstable so its not going to be like it is bolted to the table of a 3 axis Mori or Matsura. You might not get a decent chip due to tool pressure.

We generally go with 4 or 5 flutes for stainless, and although it is mostly 15-5 (get a material sub if you can 17-4 is just old out of date formulation of 15-5) we do some 17-4 and just go a bit easier, its not as free cutting as 15-5.

I think you could start at 2500 rpm and 25 ipm. Be prepared to drop the spindle to get rid of chatter. I would also try a more normal helix, 60 degrees is again increasing your tool pressure which is going to make taking a chip more difficult.

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22 minutes ago, nickbe10 said:

I think that many flutes is going to cause more problems than it solves, especially if you are working an "inside profile). Although you might think you are very rigid, a horizontal machine is always naturally unstable so its not going to be like it is bolted to the table of a 3 axis Mori or Matsura. You might not get a decent chip due to tool pressure.

We generally go with 4 or 5 flutes for stainless, and although it is mostly 15-5 (get a material sub if you can 17-4 is just old out of date formulation of 15-5) we do some 17-4 and just go a bit easier, its not as free cutting as 15-5.

I think you could start at 2500 rpm and 25 ipm. Be prepared to drop the spindle to get rid of chatter. I would also try a more normal helix, 60 degrees is again increasing your tool pressure which is going to make taking a chip more difficult.

I see what you mean about the horizontals. The little Kiwa's do fine and they can cut quick, but they're definitely not heavy duty, even for a horizontal. Cutting stainless in them has definitely taken some finesse. Unfortunately I can't sub out to 15-5 so I'll have to make do with 17-4. We typically run 4 and 5 flute IMCO in stainless, which have worked pretty well. Honestly, the surface finish isn't all that bad but we're so particular about the finish that we've been buffing them to remove any tool marks. I may be grasping at straws to get that type of finish but I figured I would see if any had found a unicorn endmill that was the end all be all. Thanks, Nick.

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15 hours ago, Frank Caudillo said:

We typically run 4 and 5 flute IMCO in stainless, which have worked pretty well.

Hey Frank,

Yeah we ran these in Superduplex  at a shop I was at and they worked well.

We have also had good luck with Helical and Harvey (small stuff) where I am now. We aren't doing "medical grade" finish but we try and bypass the deburr dept. whenever possible.

It's just not as free cutting as 15-5 and definitely harder on the tools.

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1 hour ago, nickbe10 said:

Hey Frank,

Yeah we ran these in Superduplex  at a shop I was at and they worked well.

We have also had good luck with Helical and Harvey (small stuff) where I am now. We aren't doing "medical grade" finish but we try and bypass the deburr dept. whenever possible.

It's just not as free cutting as 15-5 and definitely harder on the tools.

I've also been using Harvey/Helical for some of our stainless and I haven't been disappointed yet. For what it's worth, this is for cutting Glock slide blanks and the aesthetic custom cuts on the outside, which is why we're so critical about the finishes. I try, at all costs, to avoid any extra labor going into parts for deburr work. It usually does more harm than good.

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I cut all my 17-4 in the H900 condition.  You have to go a little slower, but the results are much better.  Easier to hold tolerances, better surface finish, no worries about any warping during heat treat.

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2 hours ago, Matthew Hajicek™ - Conventus said:

I cut all my 17-4 in the H900 condition.  You have to go a little slower, but the results are much better.  Easier to hold tolerances, better surface finish, no worries about any warping during heat treat.

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