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CAT40 holder on lathe


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Anybody ever tried mounting a CAT40 milling holder on a lathe? We're having some problems with chatter on some custom boring bars?

My thought was to bore the taper into a boring bar block (start with either a purchased blank or make out own) then use a piece of threaded rod and a nut to pull the CAT40 tool into the block. then use either a milling chuck or some type of hydraulic holder to hang on to the tool. I know it would put the tool further from the turret possibly creating more problems, but I think the benefit of 360º gripping on the shank of the bar will make up for it.

 

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20 minutes ago, BBprecise said:

Anybody ever tried mounting a CAT40 milling holder on a lathe? We're having some problems with chatter on some custom boring bars?

My thought was to bore the taper into a boring bar block (start with either a purchased blank or make out own) then use a piece of threaded rod and a nut to pull the CAT40 tool into the block. then use either a milling chuck or some type of hydraulic holder to hang on to the tool. I know it would put the tool further from the turret possibly creating more problems, but I think the benefit of 360º gripping on the shank of the bar will make up for it.

 

Not really. That is a lot of mass you now going to add to your turret. You will have the mass of the block you're trying to stick this in and the mass of the Cat40 holder you going to be using for the bar. Why is this even being considered? If you having chatter issue need to look to a defib bar. I have hung the 25mm bars out to the limits and machined with no vibration all day long. Start talking about 50mm 75mm or 150mm bars and I have seen some extreme turning done with no issues. You can even have certain bar tuned for your needs.

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20 minutes ago, BBprecise said:

Anybody ever tried mounting a CAT40 milling holder on a lathe? We're having some problems with chatter on some custom boring bars?

My thought was to bore the taper into a boring bar block (start with either a purchased blank or make out own) then use a piece of threaded rod and a nut to pull the CAT40 tool into the block. then use either a milling chuck or some type of hydraulic holder to hang on to the tool. I know it would put the tool further from the turret possibly creating more problems, but I think the benefit of 360º gripping on the shank of the bar will make up for it.

 

Not really. That is a lot of mass you now going to add to your turret. You will have the mass of the block you're trying to stick this in and the mass of the Cat40 holder you going to be using for the bar. Why is this even being considered? If you having chatter issue need to look to a defib bar. I have hung the 25mm bars out to the limits and machined with no vibration all day long. Start talking about 50mm 75mm or 150mm bars and I have seen some extreme turning done with no issues. You can even have certain bar tuned for your needs.

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1 hour ago, 5th Axis CGI said:

Not really. That is a lot of mass you now going to add to your turret. You will have the mass of the block you're trying to stick this in and the mass of the Cat40 holder you going to be using for the bar. Why is this even being considered? If you having chatter issue need to look to a defib bar. I have hung the 25mm bars out to the limits and machined with no vibration all day long. Start talking about 50mm 75mm or 150mm bars and I have seen some extreme turning done with no issues. You can even have certain bar tuned for your needs.

The weight isn't a problem (2' diameter turret). We've run much heavier tools on this machine without problems.

Sorry guys I thought I put the bars dimensions in my post. 🙄 The bar is a custom solid carbide ID groover and is necked down to Ø.70 for 4" for a combined projection of 6-1/2" from face of sleeve/bushing. No way to attach it to any devibe bar. We've used an 1-1/4" bar that you can adjust the tune manually with great success, but just won't work in this case and don't see anything smaller then 25mm.

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1 hour ago, YoDoug® said:

Why not go with Capto? You should be able to find what you want off the shelf and a C6 is a stronger connection than a CAT40.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRnPCxiwbYA9dTe67Eyqtl 

I've started looking into them, just not seeing what I need. We have a couple KM50 units (2" round shank, not one piece like in your pic), but between the length of the base and then adding the ER40 collet holder the tip of the tool will be 12" from turret and we'll be close to hitting the back of machine when we the run short tools.

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1 hour ago, nickbe10 said:

You might want to look at the taper specs, they are grind tolerance tight.

Oh I know that, we'd only be making the block itself. We'd send it out for the taper portion. Already contacted a company capable of doing this.

15 minutes ago, #Rekd™ said:

I use er collet chucks for our boring bars but our machine is a small simple X, Z, C.

We have a smaller group of similar parts and we use an eccentric DA (maybe it's an ER, don't remember) collet holder to hold a similar ID tool and it works great. Just can't get a Ø7/8" collet in except for ER40 and TG100 collets. The collet extensions I've found all have a very short shank and we'd be lucky to get 2 screws on the shank.

We have 1 lathe with a C, the others are only X,Z.

 

Thanks.

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2 minutes ago, BBprecise said:

The weight isn't a problem (2' diameter turret). We've run much heavier tools on this machine without problems.

Sorry guys I thought I put the bars dimensions in my post. 🙄 The bar is a custom solid carbide ID groover and is necked down to Ø.70 for 4" for a combined projection of 6-1/2" from face of sleeve/bushing. No way to attach it to any devibe bar. We've used an 1-1/4" bar that you can adjust the tune manually with great success, but just won't work in this case and don't see anything smaller then 25mm.

I would make my own sleeve then. I have made Lathe bushings for years with no issue. That would be much easier than trying to make a CAT40 adapter for fit into your turret is my take on it.

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