I need to machine a piece about the size and shape of a laptop computer lid out of 6061 T6 aluminum and it needs to remain flat. What approach should I take to avoide warping due to internal stress? Thanks, Bob

I have a Haas Mini Mill and I am contemplating making a vacuum chuck for it and this raises a few questions... 1. Can I rig a pressure sensor to the mill so that if the vacuum is lost the mill will stop (same as when the main air supply pressure drops below 80 psi) ? If so, is this difficult? 2. Any drawbacks or risks associated with using a vacuum chuck? Thanks, Bob

So MasterCAM will run the machine directly from the computer, correct? I plan to head over to Predator software and pick up the cable in the next hour or so. Do I need any additional software other than MasterCAM to run the mill DNC? Is the setup very difficult? I have been running all programs to date via the floppy drive.

I will be cutting aluminum. Any info on the speeds and feeds with the ball end mills? Thanks, Bob

The mill is a Mini Mill and it was new in November 2005.

Also, I should mention that the mill is a Haas

I have been asked to bid on a job that involves a significant amount of surfacing and I would like to give it a shot. The part is about the size and shape of a laptop computer lid and it requires a nice finish but it will not be a cosmetic model. I have a few questions... If I machine the surface with a parallel tool path (finishing) and a .25" ball mill what feed and step over would you recommend with a 6000 rpm spindle? Also, I need to get set up to run the mill via DNC and I am not currently setup for this (floppy drive). What do I need to get to be able to run DNC? Will MasterCAM do it (Level 3) or do I need third party software? Any special cables required? Is it easy to set up? Thanks, Bob

It is too bad that it isn't easier. It would be nice to have the ability to run parts A&B, B&C, A&C, etc... and fully utilize the fixture plate with a few quick mouse clicks. I guess it wouldn't be too difficult to cut and past the entire program (with a different work offset) but there would be a lot of redundant tool changes. Thanks, Bob

I have been looking into the Jergens ball lock fixture system and it brought up a few questions. On the larger subplates you can use two different fixture plates at the same time. Say I have two different parts (one per fixture plate) programmed in seperate MCAM files and I wanted to run them on the mill at the same time. Is it possible to combine the two MCAM files into one program that I can take to the mill if they share all of the same tools? Thanks, Bob

So is an air dryer necessary in the mill's air supply? I don't currently have one. Bob

What do most people use to filter the moisture out of their compressed air supply? A supplier's URL would be very helpful. When I run my mill for extended lengths of time moisture gets in the line exen though I have two filters (down to .01 micron). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob

It is just a momentary thing that lasts less than one second.

When my air compressor kicks on it dims the work light on my mill (Haas Mini Mill, 240V single phase). I recently moved and I need to upgrade the electrical service to my shop, which is currently set at 70 amps. This is a high priority but in the meantime I have work that needs to get done. Is there the potential to damage my machine? Is there a quick and easy remedy I can do until I get the service upgraded to 200A? Thanks, Bob

I have heard numerous stories about computers crashing or hard drives dying and it finally happened to me on my work computer. I lost quite a bit of data and it really sucked. The next day I went out and bought a Maxtor external hard drive (~$200, for my home computer) that backs up the entire system (CAD, email, programs, Windows, etc...) every night. Now if I lost my hard drive I can have the entire computer to the pre-crash state in an hour or so. If anyone has critical data on their computer I would highly recommend one of these units. It took a few days to get everything up and running after that crash and my archived emails were permanently lost. Bob

Are there any tools out there for clamping a part on the ID in small sizes (.3" - .5" hole diameter)? I know Mitee Bite has something along those lines but it is for bigger hole sizes (1" - 2" or so). Something that could be custom machined to size would be perfect. This is needed for milling. Thanks, Bob

I machine a lot of aluminum with carbide tooling and I am looking for coolant recommendations. I have a Haas Mini Mill with a 20 gallon capacity and I have been using Hangsterfers (sp??) but I am looking for a change. Any thoughts? I also need some coolant for my saw, which has a 3/4" blade. Thanks for the help. Bob

I will be moving my mill (Haas Mini Mill) to a new location later this week. My question is, what do I do with all of the coolant? What is the proper method of disposing of it? Thanks, Bob

I need to have some small grooves wire cut in copper (.004" groove width). Anyone know where I can look to find a shop with this capability? Thanks, Bob

I need some 1.5mm thick brass plate in a width greater than 2". Is there a source in the US that might stock this? I have checked McMaster with no luck. Also, is there a machining forum out there where I can post these sorts of questions? This forum is loaded with some sharp machinists and I know I will always get the answer I am looking for, but I hate to clutter it up with OT questions like this. Thanks, Bob

Do you typically run coolant when drilling 4140 (30 Rc) with uncoated carbide drills? Thanks, Bob

+1 James. It is spam, hokey, and unprofessional.

I set the mill at .0001" jog and manually pecked at it with a .125" carbide end mill in .003" increments, and it came out great. I saved the part and I didn't lose the end mill either. Thanks for the help. Bob

Is there a special tool for creating the internal hex in a socket head cap screw? If anyone has a link to a site that describes the process please pass it along. Thanks, Bob

I have a lot of time into this part and I busted of a #8 thread forming tap because I mistakenly posted the op as a drill cycle instead of a tap cycle. The tap is stuck in a through hole (.2" deep) that is easily accessible. What would be the best way to remove this? I know an EDM could do it, but how about a carbide spade drill or a small end mill? I know the tool would be destroyed in the process buy it would still be cheaper than sending it out. Thanks, Bob

Worked great! Thanks.