This is EXACTLY what i needed to know and im happy i was right about most of it. With this i can make it. Thanks so much. Wish me luck haha

yeah basically, like i said my knowledge of this is SO limited, Its a .375 rectangular broach that puts keys into a bore, its one of those programs that "just works" at my shop but now i need to figure out how to alter it to fit a smaller bore and im at a loss or i need to figure out how to write new code

Title say it all i need to edit this program to run smaller for a different job, the guy who wrote it doesnt work here anymore and nobody here knows how. Finish sixe for the broach needs to be 3.925-3.930. This is a fix for a competitors part so i need to not screw this up haha i just havent messed with writing broaches before so im at a loss O0031.NC

Would something like CIMCO be sufficient for verification?

Just trying a standard raster, my backlot shows a smooth program but my simulation shows crazy moves. Who can i trust?

Just lookin for some criticism. Job cold roll nothin special. T375-SAP-03 BASE PLATE.MCAM-CONTENT

We're the same here. All tool and die, 2D, Cuts and Forms. Do you know of any resources I can use to learn? the one guy we have isn't super open to teaching lol so I'm trying to do it on my own as a backup in case the company ever needs it.

My shop currently has only one EDM wire guy so I've been thinking about learning myself on the side to be able to help out when necessary. Is there anyone on here that has done both? are they similar to program for or can I expect a learning curve? Do you have any reliable resources for learning?

Ok, so once again thanks go out to all of you for the info, i tracked down our refractometer and learned how to use that. Got the levels to the suggested amount. I was sitting at 1-3% and manufacturers recommended was 6-8% so i was a bit off. Now i know. I may still repaint just to set a new baseline standard for the shop. Keep things clean and well maintained. Huge shout out to you all. Thank you so much.

Do you think just painting the exposed areas where the paint has worn and then balancing my coolant levels would be ideal? I figure exposed metal on the interior isn't ideal and that would prevent me from having to paint the whole thing. As I chip away at what's rusted inside there isn't a huge amount of exposure. Luckily most of the rust is just metal that was aloud to sit and corrode on top of the painted surfaces. Separate question is how do i find the ideal balance of coolant to water? Can too much concentrate be as bad as not enough?

I need to repaint the interior of my CNC mill, the person I replaced didn't take very good care of these machines and the rust problem is pretty bad. I found this article but its all way above me as to where id even order stuff like this. Anyone recently repaint that can pass on some knowledge? https://www.americanmachinist.com/archive/practical-ideas/article/21894214/covering-a-few-machinepainting-tips "Viper LG-1000AP"

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/replace-solid-carbide-end-mills-indexable-inserts-really-mitchell Has anyone made the switch? What are the benefits? It is something I've been thinking about pitching at my shop but I'm curious if anyone else is mainly using inserts and what your experience has been like. We're Tool & Die so I'm unsure if its the best call for us.

I've scrounged the forums and haven't found anything conclusive. Its a shame its stuck with windows.

Has anyone ever managed to get Mastercam to run on a Linux system? I got a new small form handheld computer that I have running Linux which is a powerhouse and would be awesome to work on the go. I could put Windows on it but I love the open-source community too much to switch off. The freedom Linux offers is to great. Any luck?

SUCCESS!! The darn photo wont upload... but ive finished the first one with no issues.