Give them what they want, not what they ask for... Now there is the challenge

Does anyone use the stop screw in the back off shrinks anyway? We remove the screw and drill the back out clearance so the cutters can go in for miles. Obviously will not work on larger holders but up to 12mm works fine Doesn't affect the performance of the shrink in any way Also makes removing broken cutters easier

If you have a decent induction shrink, put the holder in the freezer, then with a rod up the pull stud hole loading the steel cutter give it heaps with induction. If it gets hot without coming out, put it back in the freezer and try again. We have good success this way and do it regularly. I have only had one tip cutter that I haven't been able to get out. A cheap shrink system is false economy but some bosses don't see it that way. Shrinks have been the greatest advancement we made and has more than paid for itself over the last 20 years (still using some of the original shrinks) Hope this helps Worth a try

I would relieve shank and flute so only 1mm (40 thou old money) cutting, and try conventional milling not climb milling ramping , and well supported

I didn't think you would want the pay cut

how about you tube so we all can laugh

I'll second that, Guhring

Send it to the fabrication shop Better be quick before the day is out

I would suggest bite the bullet and buy shrink holders. Long and thin as you like and run true and solid.

You learn something every day, I didn't know about jump at points. Thanks Mr Paris you are a legend

We have been using it for the electrodes on our sparkers for 20 years plus. Great for milling, grinding, turning electrodes they repeat well. You can even buy copper blanks on shafts ready to go. Once you build up a stock of base plates and shafts makes manufacture of electrodes simple and fast

Good quality shrink holders are the only way to go. We use them all the time very seldom use collet chucks (got lots of them collecting dust) Shrinks are a bit of an initial investment, but last for ever when looked after and extend cutter life Did I hear right ????? America and metric in the same sentence

Just found out Noga clocking attachments don't like 5000rpm. It flew apart (surprise), but I put it back together and is still fine. More than I can say for the clock. I've had the Noga base and clocking attachment for years and use them all day every day (first time one has been abused). Only way to go (genuine Noga's) but not at 5K revs (still mad at myself)

Have you tried "containment inside" on the cut parameters page. Should stop the gouges Cheers

Learn something every day. Didn't know about the "hole - axis". That will be very handy Thanks guys This place is a mine field of information

The mower works great without crashing, but the multi axis line trimmer is not much good on the hedges and bushes (keeps freezing or crashing) mind you it is the beta version so hopefully the next release will be more reliable

Create pull down - bolt circle (near the bottom) Cheers

I would suggest to the imagineer to recoup some money by recycling. We get good money for scrap carbide and turn it into sparkling amber liquid and prime beef. (tastes good and gets browny points all round) even the managers enjoy it. But saying that we don't use the quantities that some of you are talking.

We run sacrificial slave tables 1.25" thick steel (30mm proper language) on 6 pillars and back bolt jobs onto it. You can put multiple blocks up and finish the outsides completely (no vice jaws or clamps to hit). I bolt a vice on to slave table to face / chamfer / drill and tap etc.Then bolt the job down and go for it. When the table is full of holes replace and start again. Don't have any problems with moving or rigidity, but they are not large machines (800mm x 400mm) verticals

We use base masters and touch probes (Big brand) on all our machines that don't have on-board measuring. I set the touch probe as zero and measure all tools relative to it, then you don't have to remeasure for each job, and drills taps etc. that live in machine are always good to go. More accurate than the machine (0.001mm) Got sick of touching (and chipping) real quick Use down to 0.3mm ballend

Drill clearance in the back of the shrink holder (from the pull stud end obviously) and the long tools slip right in, and she's all peachy. oops, just read back and already suggested, but that's what we do with no problems

I notice your subsequent peck is 0.1, try reducing that to the same as first peck. We use shrinks and Big Diashowa micro chucks for small drills with good results (although not quite as small as 0.16mm) Good Luck

I have a job coming up with multiple counterbores (80 plus) all at different depths. In the past I have contour ramped in FBM with reasonable success, but sometimes a counterbore breaks into another hole and that causes a problem in FBM. Has anyone got any suggestions for another approach without picking each hole? Thanks in advance

Ceramic scrapers are brilliant for deburring, chamfering etc plastic

Have you tried "adjust end of contour " on the lead in/out page? Has worked for me on simple shapes, haven't tried it on complex contours yet