I remember back 15 yrs ago in an all Matsuura shop doing a set up. I took over from the night shift guy and he had tons of questions for me when i walked in the door. Why does the part look like this. Why is it scrap. Why cant this machine cut a straight line. and on and on. I looked at the part and right away i asked him if he turned on look ahead in the program. Our post at the time could not insert the look ahead codes in right places and so we had to hand edit the programs to turn it on. It was the old GON and GOF codes. I wished all machines had look ahead and high speed options that were just on all the time automatically. It would be so much easier. But all the high end machines need them.

we all think that 1 little slot will not wreck our 300k machine. But it could. i ran a matsura a few years ago. I had 1 slot to cut. 0.295 wide. 0.250 deep. Boss said use a 1/4" em. Ok. So programmed it 12k rpm 50ipm. Nice peel mill program. Slot was only 30 inch long. After i was done the machine was not sounding right. Felt rough in 1 spot on the table. Pulled covers off and had a look. Ball screw was pooched. linear bearings had a nice wear spot on them. about .005 play on the table right there. Called matsura to come fix it. They looked at it and right away asked what i cut with it right there. They knew exactly what happened. Too long moving just a few thou in same spot. They covered it under waranty but told boss not to do it again. So from then on i programmed allot differently. When i do long slots like that i break it up into short sections and come out of the cut above the part and run the table around just to lube bearing and cool them off. Then back into the cut. Bearings have been good for over 7yrs no problems. Your mileage may vary but i dont suggest it.

it is more a fact of the linear bearings not getting enough lube while machining small arcs. if you machine a slot only on x with toroid moves the bearings will run out of lube on the y axis very fast. because the bearings are only moving a few thou on the y axis and it is not enough t movement to get fresh lube in there. it has nothing to do with the smoothing of the tool paths. It is the size of the movements. The machine needs distance to get fresh lube in the bearings.

look at the Sandvik coromill QD. they work great in all materials and great tolerances too

are the slots 0.240" center to center or 0.240 between faces? If between faces use a bigger EM than 1/8". something like 3/16, 5mm, 5.5mm or even 6mm. and ramp down right in center then clean up pass using thin wall option. I am assuming you cant use a slitting saw. If you can stand the part up and use a saw I would do that all day long. that's what slitting saw are for.

Yes that is not a cat50. that is NMTB50. not the same. Taper is same but no pull stud. Made for drawbar machines.

some older machines need line numbers. What he needs to do is turn on arc filter/tolerance and play with the setting to get it smaller.

So you drew a 10" circle and used an endmill to cut on center or outside compensation? If you were using left or right comp your actual cutting time will be off because of the radius of your tool makes your circle bigger. eg: 10 " circle cut with 1" endmill makes your actual cutting diameter 11". so 11" x pi = 34.55749" circumference = and would take 1.1 minutes to cut. and if you have a couple of thou cutter comp in control it will add to cutting time also. But if you programmed tool center then your cut time should be good. Just something to look at before fooling with your machine.

do a manual search for all your "H" values. one of them is not the same as your "T" number. might be at the beginning right after tools change. or some where in middle if there are multiple ops with same tool. Sometimes when you post out 1 op at a time it post the correct tool "H". but when you do it all together no go. Out pops an "H" not equal to your tool "T" number. When you verify in control, it will alarm out before it gets to the problem. That's because of the look ahead. So where it stops usually look after that and you will find the problem. But somewhere in your posted program you have an "H" not equal to your "T" that's supposed to be in spindle. Precalling tool will not alarm out if you have the double arm tool changer.

After changing the resin did you let it run for a few hours so it would have time to filter and bring it down? Our old brother had to be started up a day before i needed it to condition the water before i could use it. Its not instant.

I have used both and if your Haas lathe has the quick programing installed i would forgo the mastercam and program right on the lathe. It is much better than you would think. in 10 years i think i could not program 2 features on 2 different parts. It is very powerful. So i would take the Haas training. then try it out on the lathe for a few months. If after that you need mastercam, then buy it and get training on it aswell.

I use mitee grip tape. its heat activated. so you heat it to glue it down then machine then heat it to release it. very strong and you don't bend your parts getting it off. https://www.miteebite.com/products/mitee-grip/ Much stronger too.

The tsc option comes from the maker. but they buy the collant tanks and pump kits from an American company to save on import and shipping costs. I have one at our shop and that is what they told us. collant tank and pumps from the states costs almost 10k less than having matsuura ship it here with machine.

Haas now have the same as G68.2 and it works great. but I guess they don't have the option as its an older machine. as it has been said here never move your G54 after it is set at the center of rotation. if it is not cutting on size then it is in mastercam that there is a problem. once you figure it out you will have fun. us the different work planes for the diferent faces. front for front back for back left for left and right for right side. in mastercam make sure you program to Z0. incrementle and be careful with your retracks when you start swinging part around. go slow when you prove out program.

Pivot the trunnion to 90deg forward. edge find the top of your trunnion table. pivot 90deg back. edge find the top of the table again. difference of the 2 equals the pivot height. should be close to 1/8". take that number as a negative because the pivot point is above table. add the thickness of mounting plate, vise, any parales and your part. in master cam draw you part stock top at the number you calculated. so table is .127 plus 1.375 for each plate plus 60mm for vise plus lets say 3" for your part blank. I get 7.985" to the top of the 3" blank. from the pivot point. draw your blank and part at the height and centered on x and y and start programing. only thing is if you need to lower your z to clean up the top more you have to move part in mastercam in z . you cant change the g54 which equals center of rotation of x y and z. they never change. you move part in mastercam. hope that is clear as mud. need help just ask.