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About Sticky

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  1. If you want straight walls, you have to.
  2. Sticky

    Machine monitoring

    Do you tie this into an ERP system? If so, which ERP system are you using?
  3. Outputting just the macro call is the way to roll. A "gotcha" you need to keep an eye out for when you have multiple machines is that many machine builders are using their own version of renishaws inspection plus macros, with the same macro number, but they work "basically the same", which translates to sometimes they don't work worth xxxx. Also some controls can't deal with equations that have two sets of negative values. It is critical that all your machines are running genuine Renishaw inspection plus macros, and that you have tested that tool wear compensation values get applied in the correct direction on each machine.
  4. Sticky

    Force Tool Change won't stay checked....

    What do you mean by "canned text" exactly?
  5. I have a Matsuura 15k air/oil spindle that has around 40,000hrs or more on it, never been rebuilt, runs like a top. Spends a lot of time between 10-15k. I have a air/oil Makino spindle that pretty much only operates at 20k for days at a time. Based on my experience I am happy to stick with air/oil.
  6. Well that is only the second time they have learned that lesson...
  7. Sticky

    Best toolholder for 1/8" shank tools?

    Techniks is your issue, their heatshrinks are mediocre at best, and their quality control across their entire product line is hit or miss, sometimes great, but then you get holders that have huge surfaces where the grinder never cleaned up the turned surfaces after heat treating... FWIW heat shrink machines should have different temp settings and indusction adapters for different diameters. You shouldn't use the same coil and settings for a 1/8" shank as you would on a 1/2" I am a MST fanboy, just because they have never sent me any garbage and I can consistently get better than .0001" runout. Haimer is good too.
  8. Sticky

    Best toolholder for 1/8" shank tools?

    What holders are you using? What exactly is the issue?
  9. Sticky

    Best toolholder for 1/8" shank tools?

    IIRC our MST "HeatRobo" or whatever it is called was about half that price. I have also heard that Maritool recently came out with one even less expensive, but I can't speak for the quality of it. I like steep taper collets for a lot of stuff, but when you don't need amazing holding power, and you need the best runout possible, a good heat shrink system (holders and heat machine) are pretty much impossible to beat. I have also learned that if you can get tools in a 4-6mm shank that neck down to what you need you will get better tool life and better tool holder life however.
  10. Sticky

    Best toolholder for 1/8" shank tools?

    Sounds like you have a poor heat shrink setup or crappy heat shrink holders. My 3mm heat shrink MST holders have great life, and are quick to open or close with the MST heat shrink machine.
  11. Sticky

    2D Dynamic not cleaning floor

    It has done this with radius endmills for years.
  12. They are light duty machines - everything from spindle, to ball screws to casting. They aren't worthless, they just aren't worth spending 50k+ on. If the machine can run with just a monitor replacement it will be a great cheap/freeish machine, until something really goes wrong.
  13. They are a long ways off from being a nice machine so I would invest any real money into it. Replacing a CRT, or even converting it to LCD isn't going to cost much if that is all you need to do to make it operational. Turning into a full 5 axis is a waste of money. If you can make it work for cheap I would do that and just run it until you can't get parts for it anymore.
  14. Oh I didn't realize the sheet was that thin. In that case I wouldn't bother with any type of carbide drill, TSC or not. Powdered drills like Nachi SG drills work quite well in unstable cutting conditions (where carbide will just crack).
  15. That is a tall order. Start with a coolant through carbide drill designed for stainless steels and heat resistant alloys, something like a OSG wdo-sus series. You are still going to need to spot chamf the backside to be completely burr free though. Is laser drilling an option?

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