If I was doing work for you and you wanted to use comp then I would use it. I have not found a need for it personally.

Does anyone else feel that reference points should be associative to the geometry you tag?

I never use comp of any kind, computer only. I can change the size of the tool, post it and have it back to the machine before the operator can find the buttons for the tool register. That way when I backplot I really know where the tool is going save for psop/peof.

Accusyn 694FMC from acculube here. Been in our mazak for like 2 years now. No bad smell, never rots. I use it for all the machines. We even use it in our tumbler, and in spray bottles for the manuals.

I've been single point threadmilling for years. I just started buying multi point threadmills last year. Does seem to cut smaller than programmed thread size either way. I've pulled a part out of the chuck threadmilling with the multi point long ones. Seems to be an inordinate amount of tool pressure. Even though I do it a few times a month whenever you can tap it is so much faster. Through holes on 3/4 or less I usually tap with OSG Hy-pro. Anything tapered (pipe fittings) I thread mill. Once you do it a couple times all fear goes away. You can get cheap multi flute 2 sided 60 degree chamfer tools that work just fine for thread milling. Trust me LOL.

I use it at least weekly. I have saved projects where I used to draw hundreds of little lines and chain them one at a time to get this effect. I didn't know it was new in 2017, I thought I just had been overlooking it and felt kinda dumb (er). This path is running on our little mori lathe as I type

I have exhausted all conventional phone and internet searches for a piece of 2.25/2.5 diameter aluminum for a test. Rickards is listed as a source but they do not have any and cannot provide a date when they can. Is anyone here currently using 2618 for anything and if so do you have a supplier or maybe a stick hanging around I could buy? Thanks- Jim

OK looks like they have these in stock? I need to check shipping. I'll get a couple 2 flutes and a 4, I never know what is going to work on the wheels I run sometimes it amazes me. A 3 flute that has run 10 wheels gives a better finish than a new one and makes a part within a couple tenths of a fresh end mill go figure. 2 flute might ring the blades, might be just fine. A 4 flute might load up or it might be just fine. I've been machining for most of my life now and the parts I run seem to defy logic and things I thought I knew for 25 years. I appreciate the tips guys thank you.... muchly LOL.

Award had a 7/64 on their site. They sell only through dealers like harvey. I located a dealer who called them about the 7/64 5 degree taper to 3/8 shank they had listed on the site..... 45 weeks lead time. Price was great though. Back to the drawing board

That's bad, sorry. Never got a tap that was etched wrong but I do have a pin gauge in my hand etched .344 - and it mics at .333 sent us in a spin for a couple hours setting up a small boring bar. I did get 2 HSS parting tools in one time that looked identical, one of them was hardened and one was not. Sorry you had problems.

LOL thanks for the tip, bud.

Researching those vendors now, thank you. I see 7/64 that might be close enough. Custom is a last resort, I bet I would have to have 20 of them made to bring the price down. That would be about a 5 year supply for me in aluminum Thanks again, will look in every hour or so for new posts.

I'm having a headache trying to locate a 3MM carbide end mill preferably 3 flute non coated, that tapers up to a shank in the 8 to 10MM range. Does anyone have a source for these? I have tried garr, osg and sgs can't find it on their site. When 1/8 is just a little too big....... can't make the blades any thinner and hub size is important. Thanks- Jim

I know some axis limits works on my DMG, on the tilt axis with my post and blade expert. I limit it to 90 and if I don't limit it it will go farther. I can't see it working on XYZ due to work offsets, tool offsets and 5 axis positioning routines because XYZ could be anywhere depending on where your tables or head is. But in case you are talking about your tilt or rotary you should be able to limit them.

Wow I have never had a problem with this, I just finished up a nasty 3 + 2 with 6 planes and never stepped out of G54. Perhaps my 2 5 axis posts are already hardwired for G54 only but I'm worried so now I'll check every time.

Good thing I don't use mouse pads I didn't get one either. My youngest son still uses mouse pads, he has a really cool Cimco mouse pad I got for free from a bud.

I don't make a lot these days, but I live pretty good being in the middle of Ohio. I'll put up with the boredom thank you.

I don't see how it would shorten the life of a holder. You are heating it up. You let it cool off. Isn't that what the induction thing does only 10 times faster? I can see if you give it to someone clueless that holds a torch on one side of the holder till it turns red, puts a piece of carbide in it then dunks it in cold water. I heat till it is just short of purple while rotating it then place it in front of a fan and just wait. I have one holder I have put probably 50 tools in that still has no run out at all. I'm sure the induction heater salesman would feel differently and would make it sound like I'm risking human life by using a heating device to heat something but I'm not convinced. Any real tech studies on this?

LOL I love it, it is getting printed and taped on my tool box.

Thats why nobody touches my shrink holders but me. I would seriously go off on somebody. And they aren't really mine at all they belong to the company but if they are going to let me buy just about anything I need I feel obligated to take care of it. I have a kit from Lyndex on the way, 19 clips and it cost me over 100 bucks. That's insane for little springs there is nothing special about them. Hope they come in a gold plated case or something.

I number mine and put on the print which number jaws go with which project. Some of my jaws are bored at an angle to match castings so there is no particular diameter. Different lathes have different prefixes, but hopefully I will never have 100 jaw sets for any machine or it wrecks the magic. Mazak starts with 1 Mori 1 starts with 001 Doosan starts with 101

It's cutting, and not breaking lol. Considering it is out of the tool holder almost 2" and it is only 1/4 in diameter I'm already impressed.

Love the exotaps, bought one by mistake one time from McMaster and never looked back. We have dozens of them. But they are steel and I can't put them in shrink fit holders using the springs I can't seem to find or buy

Thank you both. The Haimer system is more like clamps and is pretty expensive by comparison. At least they can be bought! I see the springs in some lyndex catalogs and not in others. Time to find a local dealer. The funny thing is I bought some 3 years ago but only got 1/4". Have no idea where I got them from.

Tapping is faster always. But also a host of extra things to go wrong.