One challenge with rotary broaching this part will be the pilot hole. There needs to be enough room in the hole for the chips to accumulate. I'm not sure if that will ruin the slot. Additionally, most pilot holes for rotary broaching are slightly oversized to create individual chips when broaching. The dog should still work, but you will want to think about where the chips will go after you've machined the slot. Hope that helps.

Lining up the broach manually, and by using the rotary broach brake only set the starting position of the broach. Only the guide post and dog set-up guide the broach all the way to the bottom of the hole. This method might be necessary because of the slot.

Bruce,

There's a few ways to align a rotary broach:

1. Manually

2. Rotary Broach Brake (click for link)

3. Guide Post and Dog (see image below)

Hope that helps.

(bridgeport)

I use free TrueView download often, it works well.

For the most part broaching titanium is challenging and not easy to do. Some of our rotary broach customers have had to slow down the recommended speeds and feeds just to make a few parts, and upgrade the material to a tougher tool steel like M-42 or PM T-15. Chipping on the sharp corners is usually the first failure. But the most interesting adjustment is in the rake angle. If you end up having any difficulties, try grinding the face of your broach flat before you buy a new one and test it out if possible. Your application may work better with little to no rake angle. This is not really well documented in the industry, but a few people are doing it. Sounds like Kevin knows his stuff.