Jump to content

Welcome to eMastercam

Register now to participate in the forums, access the download area, buy Mastercam training materials, post processors and more. This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Use your display name or email address to sign in:

Philcott

Customers
  • Posts

    1,498
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Philcott

  1. I love living on our island but I have to say finding new tooling is not as easy as one might think. I've been pressuring the bossman to send me to a tool show again since it's been 15 years. Hopefully I can get to Chicago next year but I'm not holding my breath.

     

    We have long used hardinge's TT-3/4 tapping heads for both cut and form tapping. They have served us well but I thought it's just about time to see what else is out there and what other guys are using. DO you use compression style?

     

    On the machines that have rigid tapping we use that but we have a few lathes that don't have it.

     

    What are you using and are you happy with it.

  2. I think you will have (as you seem to already know) nothing but trouble trying to do this in one opp. I would try roughing the OD, drill (use a 135 degree split point cobalt drill-peck drill but only retract .01 or so to break the chips), rough the ID to within .02 per side or so, finish the OD to size and part off.

     

    2nd opp. Bore jaws so the part is holding almost all the way around the part (kind of like a collet with as much contact as possible). Finish bore to size. We have had great luck in Ti. with Seco TS2000 grade inserts. Bore the jaws to hold as much of the length of the part as you can and relief the bottom so the chips have a place to go.

     

    It may not be production but at some point you'll just have to get the parts done.

  3. It is looking like we will be in the booth Tuesday most likely doing interviews with cnc and a few dealers live for you folks that will not be going.we Eapprentice and CNC will be sending out info of times by next week and how to see the interviews and at least one of the dog and pony shows from the booth.

     

    Ron I will see you this friday and then again at the show.

     

    Jay,

     

    Will this be a live podcast? It would be cool if we could interact with some of you folks while you're there.

  4. I'm just cutting my teeth with learning how to program our Okuma. Many of our parts are on the complicated side so my question is do you mostly program simple face and turn with a drill and a bore kind of parts with the one touch? Can any of you post up a pic of some of the more complicated parts you did with one touch to give me an idea what it can do?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Phil

  5. We have the above mentioned lathe and I need some help figuring out what the code needs to look like to run some C axis face milling on this.

     

    First of all, we have a lot of programs written to run on our fanuc controls and we would like (if possible) to be able to tweak the code to run on the Okuma. If we could change the G113 to G137 or something like that it would be great but I have a feeling it won't be as easy as that.

     

    Below is a sampling of the code I use now. The X value is the diametrical distance along the horizontal axis (X on a mill) and the C is the radial distance along the vertical axis (Y on a mill).

     

    What I need to know (we are new with this machine and I don't have much for sample code with explanations) is when programming with G137 where do I get my values for X and Y? From there I can start working on some post mods to get me going.

     

     

    The machine has a Y axis but for now I want to try and get this conversion going

     

    Any help would be much appreciated.

     

     

    G0 X4.0161 Z.25

    M8

    G112

    G1 X-.3536 C2.0002 F100.

    Z.05

    Z-.25 F6.42

    G41 X-.1768 C1.9119 F40.

    G3 X0. C1.8753 L.125

    G2 X.8186 C1.6243 L.4593

    X1.8444 C.2121 L6.1562

    X1.8925 C0. L.9462

    X.3694 C-.9281 L.9462

    G3 X.3402 C-.9607 L.0437

    X.3904 C-1.0003 L.0437

    G2 X.9185 C-1.416 L.4592

    X0. C-1.8752 L.4592

    X-.8186 C-1.6243 L.4592

    X-1.8444 C-.2121 L6.1562

    X-1.8925 C0. L.9462

    X-.3694 C.9281 L.9462

    G3 X-.3402 C.9607 L.0437

    X-.3904 C1.0003 L.0437

    G2 X-.9185 C1.416 L.4592

    X0. C1.8753 L.4592

    X.1984 C1.8644 L.4593

    G3 X.2524 C1.8615 L.125

    X.3868 C1.8811 L.125

    G1 G40 X.5976 C1.9483

    Z.25 F100.

    G113

     

    image002.jpg

     

    I have a .Z2G profile that we have used on our fanuc controls I can send if someone wants to try and help.

  6. I would try getting a PCD threading tool. Diamond tools are wicked sharp and would cut through that stuff like butter. Also, how may passes are you taking? Lots of light cuts is going to be your best bet.

     

    It's cutting in 18 passes now and ran last night with no problems. What a day yesterday fighting this crap.

     

    I really think the main solutions were getting the cutting speed up high enough and smaller passes. Sharp tool played a part for sure and I'll get a PCD insert if we get this job again.

  7. I understand. It sticks to the insert then pulls chunks out of the material. The method I described is a pain in the butt, but we have machined threads this way on some NASTY refractory alloys that are soft and gummy. And, they are abrasive as well. You gotta love it.

     

    We don't have a way to grind that here anymore and my eyes aren't what they once were to hand grind the tool. I do appreciate the tip though.

Join us!

eMastercam - your online source for all things Mastercam.

Together, we are the strongest Mastercam community on the web with over 56,000 members, and our online store offers a wide selection of training materials for all applications and skill levels.

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...