Stan_Z, thanks for the reply. I looked into the transform tool path and it looks very easy. Thanks all.....

Thanks for the suggestion, I will give it a try. Any other ideas?

I have a very short program that is going to spot, drill and tap a hole followed by machining a logo. The program will be run on a stack of 10 flanges that are .625" thick. After the first flange is completed I would like to offset the program .625" in the Y-axis and re-run the sequence. Ideally I would run all of the spot cycles, then drill cycles, then tapping..... to reduce tool changes. Any suggestions as to how to go about this? Sub program call? Absolute and incremental? Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi John, check your e-mail. Mike

Got it John, still not accurate in MCX2...... Thanks for trying! Mike

Sent it again John. Mike

Thank you John, the logo is on its way. Mike

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, I got busy with other jobs. Is there any chance I can still send the file? Thanks, Mike

We just had our company logo updated in Adobe Illustrator (AI) and we are having trouble getting the file into a format MCX2 will work with. I read here on the forums (searched) that some newer .AI files will not work with MCX2, so this could be one reason. I tried saving the logo as a .DXF, which worked, but gave horrible accuracy. I also tried using WinTopo to perform a raster to vector conversion. Again, it worked, but gave very poor results. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mike

I modified the start/end points in the lead in/out screen. It worked very well and was very easy. Now to fine tune them when I run the first part. Thanks again, Mike

Thank you all for the suggestions, I will see if I can put them to use. Mike

Hi Guys, I am trying to chamfer (debur) the edges of multiple bosses inside a pocket. The bosses blend into the wall of the pocket and are roughly half the height of the pocket. The only way I have been able to keep the tool from hitting the wall is to create new geometry to allow the tool to lead into the boss away from the wall. This is time consuming and doesn't always work on the first try. Is there a better way get around this? Thanks for the help, Mike

Hi Guys, I looked into stick letters, but they are just that, stick. I need the letters to be in the correct font style, so they are out of the question in this case. The depths I am using have been 0.001 to 0.003 which seems about right. Is there any specific tool that works well for fine engraving. I am using small ball mills. Jay, I will take a look at the video and see if it helps. Thanks again, Mike

Since the letters are not stick font changing the offset will not fix the problem. I will give stick fonts a try and see if I can get the results I am looking for. Thanks for the help, Mike

Hi Guys, I have run into a problem with machining small letters (1/4" or smaller for example) and would like to know if there is a solution. Is there any way to make the tool follow the center line of the letter rather than the outline? The small letters start to look like bold print or blur together because of this. Thanks for the help, Mike