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workmantm

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Posts posted by workmantm

  1. I'm learning 5X milling on two of these and I've noticed that they do not pre-call the next tool in the magazine. I'm watching a significant amount of time rack up waiting for the tool changes. Where in the program would I put a call for the next tool and how should it look? I'm good on 3X type machines, but I've got no idea on one of these beasts.

  2. Thank you all for the feedback.

     

    Chris: I don't mind using canned cycles. As long as I know what the hell they are doing. Coming from a fanuc background, the implementation of them by Okuma is not a straight forward thing.

    I've got no one really to be a dedicated trainer and everyone does things differently. My job is to figure out what is going on, learn the controls and make standardization changes ASAP.

    I'm ok with being tossed in the deep end as long as I have some sort of guide to fall back on. Currently we have 7+ different controls on the shop floor. It's a little bit of a learning curve.

    I've talked to the AE for Gosiger when he came in to train us on the new controls. I'm making progress on learning how to manipulate the controls.

     

    I was just looking to see if anyone had any online type resources that I can reference on my time when I am away from the shop to work towards teaching myself how to best apply the machines to the work we have and get myself up to 100% in the shortest time possible.

  3. Thank you for all the replies.

     

    I appreciate all the responses. I'm working on my list of things to understand right now.

     

    Currently I'm struggling with setups. Specifically touching off tools.

    I am used to presetters and we only have 5 machines with them here.

    Different beast, but I think the AE for our reseller gave me enough information for

    me to be able to get started more comfortably.

     

    I'm having a little trouble with NLAP codes.

    I personally would prefer they programmed everything in MC instead of just using it to get Z positions.

    I know using the Canned cycles lets parameters get changed faster for the cuts, but that can be a catch 22 as well.

    Not having the long code to read makes me more nervous with trying to improve cycle times, tool life, and overall productivity.

     

    We have two "Simulturn" machines and that is probably my biggest trouble.

    First job I ran and improved was on an old green LC-20.

    I think I have a handle on the code layout for these systems, but it still makes me nervous when I'm messing with SFM and did I change it on both sides of the code.

     

     

    Anyone have any tips/tricks/etc... I should be looking into for optimizing these various controls?

  4. TO all the Okuma experts here. I started a new job 3 weeks ago and I'm currently sorting out the lathe side of the shop. We are an all Okuma lathe dept with a lot of varied controls.

     

    We have everything from a LC-10 up to a couple new OSP-P300L controlled machines that are still being installed.

     

    I come from a Fanuc background with 10 years on Daewoo Lynx machines. Most of the machines here do not have a presetter.

    I'm working on getting caught up with all the various functions and the layouts of these old controls.

     

    Does anyone have a link or set of resources they would be willing to share so I can get myself up to speed on these controls?

    I've got the manuals for these new machines and know where to dig out the ones for the old controls.

    I'm likely going to be a key part of the makeover for this dept and I need to get myself up to speed on the machines to facilitate this starting by the beginning of the year.

  5. Keep the CPT higher as well. Every bit of plastic that I've run wants a good amount of force to cut cleanly.

     

    My experience is typically with Delrin, but I never run into the issues we used to see when running it now. Last time it looked like we had a snow storm in the machine when I was done.

  6. The piston may also be stuck if it doesn't get used often. I've had this happen on my Puma lathe. I usually spray it with wd-40 and turn up the the pressure to break it free. Works just fine after that first time. I usually use the tailstock 1-2X per year Max, so it sits idle a lot and I can't get the floor to do the routine maintenance properly. The machine also isn't run very often either.

    • Like 1
  7. Running one of these right now on some 15-5 hog outs. Getting 12 parts per cutter, 8:08 per roughing pass. Ø1.270 3FLT, .05DOC, .03IPT taking about 3/4 deep total. The Haas is struggling to keep up, but it's getting me thru it cheaper than the pull out issues with had with solids last time we ran it.

  8. That doesn't sound too bad. How much water do you reckon you go through?

     

    We feed 5 machines, approx 40 gallons per machines. Even when we've dumped all the tanks in the same year I don't think we ended up needing service early. We are located near the stadiums in Anaheim with no climate control on the shop floor. That should give you an idea of our water evaporation rates during the summer and such.

  9. I will once I get the test results CMM measured.

    I want to make sure my comments are backed up by actual results. But there is a clear winner on surface finish. Lets see how the 3D surfaces measure up.

     

    Cheers Dave

     

    I appreciate the feedback. I just got told we have a 4 week window to make our decision and plan on doing a test cut for ourselves. All additional info I can gather helps me justify the reasons to purchase the more expensive machine or to look towards the lower cost product that the owner only wants to look at based on price alone.

  10. Yep - 7 holes in had a melt down .H13 .. 3.0 deep hole with coolant flooded .Using this type of drill . ( dijet indexable drill )

    1000 RPM 7.0 IPM .Looks like will be going back to a twist drill . At least it will not melt down .

    It would be nice to make it work ... saves a lot of time .

    Thanks for the help

     

     

    http://www.dijetusa.com

     

    Have you looked into Allied for drills? They make a rotary coupler so you can still get thru tool coolant on a machine that doesn't have thru spindle. Never used it or looked into it for here, but it could be worth a shot to take advantage of a better performing tool.

  11. We machine a couple glands from it. Nothing like what you are talking about though.

     

    I treat it like Copper. It tends to like a chip load and makes nice small chips that break cleanly.

    Very similar to Al-Ni-Br Alloy C63000. We run lots of that stuff as well.

  12. I run 304 Condition B here. The only way I've gotten drills to hold up is to run solid carbide and not peck. I drill half way thru, turn the OD and break the ID edge then turn it around and drill the other half and bore for finish size. We are not running thru tool. I tried everything including sending the parts out for gundrilling. That is the best I've gotten anything to perform in that material. Watch the pecking cause anything stuck down the hole will wreck your insert. I run Accupro 4X carbide drills at the given S&F. Don't have the chart handy at the moment.

  13. We push the 40 taper on occasion, but mostly we are running Aluminum. These are Haas Verticals so there is only so much in them. ;-)

     

    I'm lobbying as part of a maint plan to let us know when we are having issues. THe spindle was ground because we were breaking tools and could see the fretting on the tool holders.

     

    The owner only wants to invest if everyone else if doing it..... If not we don't need to be better than those we are competing with.... His theory not mine. But that's probably why I have so many issues around here.

  14. How often and what kind of maintenance are people doing out there. I've been here for 9 years and there is no such concept here. We just reground a spindle that was bell mouthed on both ends. The grinder told the owner to start over and toss all of our CAT 40 holders instead of trying to have them ground/reconditioned. I'm trying to get feedback for what other shops are doing. That is the answer the owner wants for everything. I suggested that we invest in a drawbar tester so that we would know if/when our drawbar starts failing on the machines. The last one failed and we figured it out when the saw that was loaded was hanging loose from the taper... A little too late to do anything at that point. Anyone using one of those?

     

    I've invested in the socket for a torque wrench so I can better control the retention knobs, I'd like to know how often we should be breaking them free and checking them for wear.(We have never done any of that in my time here.)

     

    I'd like to be able to put in place a robust maintenance program to improve the quality and performance on the mills. Especially if I can keep the pressure up and convince the owner to look into a slightly higher end mill instead of a Haas for nearly the same money. Having a program in place that give predictable results will make it easier to keep any machine producing a higher quality part.

  15. I do a part made from 1100 aluminum, but it's a formed box with thin walls. We use single flute End Mills and put a decent chip load on them. I'm putting Ø.100 holes thru .060 walls. We have to have near full support under the material when we drill it or is just wants to push out of the way. It's a gummy PITA to deburr those surfaces as well. Sanders are the only thing that we have found to work for that.

     

    That's the best advice I can give from our experiences. Milling and interpolating your holes seem to be the most efficient means of hole making in these gummy materials. I'd venture the deeper you get the worse it will be. Probably would try a HS peck to ensure you break a chip and use HSS coated drills. They are a little more forgiving if the chip doesn't evacuate very well.

  16. Was the drill coated? What was it coated with? If the coating has any aluminum in it, the chips will want to stick and bond to that. ZrN is the optimal coating. I've gotten away with AlTiN and TiAlN in 6061 and 7075, but I doubt I would even try it in near pure. Try a TiCN or ZrN coated tool.

     

    Would Interpolating the hole and reaming it run better? You know you're making a chip that way. Get something like the OSG Blizzard line that throws the chips out and can ramp down at high angles.

  17. I use the same OSG cutters here and I love them. I run them about 25% over what the book says and they last long time. try the 5 flute series and run it full flood coolant. leave 1/8". heat treat. and finish. I don't see any problems machining that part.

     

    I'm afraid if I tried to push my old Haas mills to 25% over the book I'd choke them worse. Good to know that they can perform that well if the machine is up to the task.

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