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Bubba85

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Everything posted by Bubba85

  1. Most of my work is simple 2d toolpaths.
  2. regen and select all toolpaths before i save hit clear colors before i save close mc before opening a new file. always save the file i'm working on to the server and local machine. part model = level 2, part wireframe = level 2, all toolpath geometry starts at level 10 and then increments of 10. Always copy wireframe geometry from level 1 to new level never move. Glad i'm not the only one with OCD.
  3. I prefer to put all the ops on one file, including any tooling that may need to be made.
  4. I've never cut 1018 but it did wear my tools down fairly quick.
  5. Finally got the parts cut. I used carbide cutters at 250 sfm and about .0005 fpt. it was slow but it got the job done.
  6. Most of the time i usually find a thread that already answers any question i may have had, however a search of this topic turned up zero results.
  7. Thank you very much. My knowledge in machining is very limited, as this is the only shop I have worked for. They try not to take on anything too challenging because most of our workforce is either mentally or physically handicapped in some way. That being said I have learned a lot from reading the forums here and applying what i have read to my job. It is great to know that there are good hearted people out there that want to help. I am young and want to learn as much as possible to further my career and help the next generation as well.
  8. Our vacuum tables do a pretty good job at holding down thin material. Just as a test we cut open a pop can laid it out flat on the table and cut it, just to see how well it would hold down thin material. Well the material arrived later than anticipated, so hopefully i will be able to make parts today.
  9. Well today is the day I must cut these parts. I am thankful for anyone who provided any useful info. Machining these is just temporary, just until the blank die is made. I will post what my final feeds and speeds end up being. The only thing I know about the spring is that it is to hold rivets and fasteners on our automatic riveting machines. I have no info on how much spring or strength they will end up being after heat treat. I am just looking for any info on the machinability of this material.
  10. I'm still learning the properties of different steel alloys. Most of what I work on is alum.
  11. I believe it's gonna be 1095
  12. Does anyone have any experience machining this stuff. I need to make a part that will eventually be a spring to a couple of our machines. The material is called out as as annealed spring steel .010 thick. I plan on using our vacuum table router to machine them i just have no idea where to start. What kind of tool am i going to need and what kind of feeds and speeds am i looking at. Any advice would be great.
  13. I was thinking a knee block with a bearing in it and a piece of round stock with a slot cut in it for the short end, and a handle welded to the other end. Then a clamping block mounted the twist length away from the round stock. Not clamping the other end should allow for and shrinkage of the part that the twist will creat.
  14. I have no problem developing the flat pattern, I do those all the time. My only problem is getting that twist in the part.
  15. I have this new part that I have to make and it has a 90° twist in it and I have no idea on how to achieve this. The part is made out of copper sheet, and will be in machined in flat pattern then formed. I will attach the file for any opinions on how to twist this part. TWISTED PART.MCX-7
  16. I have just seen a part. It is about five feet long a few inches wide. They want the brush finish to follow the grain of the material, which is making me lean more towards our time saver with a scotch-brite belt. I think a wheel or brush would be too labor intensive.
  17. The company I work for is wanting to quote sheet metal alum. with a brush finish. Does anyone have any ideas of how to achieve this finish without shelling out for a new type of machine? We do have a time saver deburr machine I was thinking we could use if the parts come in flat. ( I haven't seen a part or a print yet ) Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  18. Thanks, I'll give this a shot. I'll post results later.
  19. We run anywhere from .011" to .250", and most of our parts are pretty small 2"x2" roughly. We have two of the for mentioned routers, one has a .750" mdf board on the bed to allows vacuum to pull through it, but I still have to add extra wholes in between the parts to screw the material down to try to eliminate chatter due to poor vacuum. The other machine has a custom alum. vacuum plate that we use the Vilmill that you mentioned. (We have to iron it to the material before putting it on the machine, but it helps.) It seems that the edge finish varies from job to job, some turn out great as others have an extreme amount of chatter, which I blame on relying completely on the vacuum. The whole reason i am researching this is our machines are becoming over scheduled, and my boss (who knows nothing of machining) on me to speed things up. Trying to explain feeds and speeds to him is like talking to a wall.
  20. Hello, I am fairly new to mastercam. I mostly do simple 2d alum. sheet metal work on our multicam 5000 series router. However i am looking to speed up the process a little and was wondering if anyone else is doing sheet metal on a wood working router. We are currently using Onsrud 63-000 series cutters running at around 750sfm and a .003 chip. does anyone have any suggestions?? Thanks in advance.

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