Hey Rich, That is sweet.I can't figure out why mastercam has not addressed this yet.I always analize my mcam9 geomerty to get the depth, not no more.

hi everyone, this is "RICH", i logged on as different user because i did not remember my password and i'm using a computer outside work and i felt i needed to respond to what my statement has created. first of all i do apologize to TONY for what i said eariler. it seemed to me at the time that he responded to the orignal ? as if it was a dumb ? i don't know tony anymore then he knows me and i know that typing on a computer without seeing a persons facial expressions leave a-lot of what a person is actually trying to get across up to the imagination? i hope you "tony" can accept my apology "ELAD" for your information our company has 3 liscened seats of mastercam and if you want the sim #'s so you can check it out for yourself i'll be glad to give them to you.

andy this sounds like a process called krolon. where they chrome the parts then heat them which cracks the chrome then they apply teflon to the parts. makes them very smooth and the chrome as you know is hard. it is designed specifally for stainless steel parts to prevent gauling. and it is black to grey in color. hope this helps.

thanks for the replies i just finished a reply that was pretty long but can't resist replying again. jack the part is an actual machine, that has a bridgeport style head sort a speak with a 5000 rpm spindle and 8.0 of moving spindle stroke. and it is for finishing ends of tubing. i only have 1/32 inserts but have no problem buying the right tool for the job. i was actually thinking i should use both inserts in the cutter i have had awesome luck boring holes this way in the past but that doesn't mean it will work this time. i use tons of kaiser boring tools. kaiser is to boring as komet is to drilling in my opinion. this new simultaneous fit boring bar is a new one i just bought and the ? always comes up how much so i'll tell you now 3,800 and i'm real excited to use it. i thought i would try it because the bar and head are 55lbs. and i thought having the tool holder actually making face contact w the spindle would add the little extra rigidity to get me through this job. thanks again rich

jack, this is the kind of help i came to this forum looking for. i was also concerned abut the wear factor. i did not know if a heavier cut then .01 would be in order because of the length of cut. i've been thinking about this for a little while and i would like to run something by the forum to see if it's a good idea. since there is about .170 on a side to be removed i thought i could rough within .025 a side with a 3.0 dia. seco z axis plunge cutter from both ends. then take a semirough boring head thru the bore from both ends to clean up the scallops from the plunge mill leaving .01-.015 as jack said. the finish bore tool is 17.0 long and there is no changing that so i thought i might as well try to finish in one pass without rotating the part. so i don't have to deal with a mismatch problem. trevor, the part has 2.0 wide legs that were cut out to capture 180 deg of the od of the tube then welded on so that it stands up about 4.0 off the table. when i say stands up the tube is still horizontal. i have to mill a flat on the top and mill a 1.25 and a 1.0 slot thru to the thru bore and put some tapped holes in the part also. so the o.d. is not critical. to answer phils earlier ? the machine is a horizontal mill 50 taper. as for tony's one-liner and not to fuel the fire anymore but how else did he suppose someone is going to check a bore like this . i read and chime in on the forum and i know what a valuable tool it is and i do appreciate everyones imput. and if you read my first ? i certainly didn't ask the ? or for anyones help holding my middle finger in the air. thanks for your responses and i will keep you posted.