The 2000 pro control is pretty decent. Is that what you're getting? The CPU in our new Integrex is the weak link at only 300 Mhz. It runs the machine functions just fine but a virus scan is very taxing.

Networking is the only way to go. Then you can edit in the machine from a desk PC all within Windows. I don't edit on screen more than the simplest changes. I also drag and drop all files simple as copying from C: to A:

Mayday, to network a Fusion 640 you can just plug in a PCMCIA network card into one of the slots in back (not the one on outside) and load drivers via floppy. You might have to shop for old crap (I mean vintage equipment) but it is very functional and well worth the effort to network the control.

I personally don't think there is any benefit to pecking a form tap. Pound it in. Just make sure the hole size is correct. You need to use a different size than cut tapping.

I don't think such a tool would be very successful. Form tapping will work better than thread milling in a deep blind hole.

Welcome deeherk.

SAP is a manufacturing resource planning software. It tracks raw materials through purchasing, manufacturing processes, compiles costs, manages work routers (paperwork not wood mills) and a billion other things that I don't know about. Autocad is a design/drafting software. It is really good for architectural drawing. For designing 3D objects that are going to be machined something like Solidworks is superior.

Keep on coming here and reading and questioning.

I hadn't thought about cell phone batteries.

I tried Batteries Plus and they didn't have anything.

If you're OK with leaving the battery dangling in the cabinet, go with anything that works.

Ours went out on the B axis. Kind of a sucky job re-homeing that hummer.

I agree with Millman, keep it running if it is. If it's off and you need to get it going, fire it up and reset the axis parameters and run. The installer should have saved those parameters when the machine was new. Mazak can talk you through the parameters over the phone. Then just keep it running till the new battery is in and charged.

Dude, they won't scuff.

POUND EM HOME!

Form tapping 6061 is like butta.

There is one on each drive.

Open the main electrical cabinet and look for a little door on the left top of each servo drive. If you open the little door you'll find the battery. I don't remember the codes that flash, but I think the bad one will be flashing something different from the others.

They are about $80 bucks each.

Change them with power on to prevent loss of memory while battery is out.

I tried to find an alternate source for the battery but could not.

Cutter comp right/left often flips and can be maddening.

Check out Drillmasters.com

They offer gun drills that size.

Odds are your cell phone has a chip grown in one of our vacuum chambers.

1 install Mastercam.

2 run Mastercam.

Not to be too much of a wiseguy.

If you're having problems of any kind, check the video card.

Welcome DCAPPS.

Nice start, bring on the details please.

Cool trick our installer used to check for twist / warp in the new Integrex. He set two levels at 90 degrees and pressed them into a couple blobs of modeling clay till level, then moved the Z axis and watched the bubbles. This method should also work well with a long travel mill.

Great intro.

Welcome.

Cool equipment.

#1 centerdrill, works nice.

I've just been wondering what happened to you. ??

Happy New Year, and success in the new job.

Yup, get a quadro. I had a FX5200 that caused all kinds of intermittent crashes.

Use the centerline and end away from chuck face, and you'll be all set for that multiaxis mill/turn you'll be getting in a couple years.

New Dell P4 with XP pro here and all's well.

Welcom prw.

If you get an Integrex, use Mazatrol for turning soft jaws and MC for everything else.

Love the avatar Bruce.

Mastercammers are friends, NOT FOOD!

Howdy Phil, and welcome.

Have you found some of the previous threads on this? Check with your reseller on your non-maintenance options. You may have some.

We tried Gibbs for the Integrex and ended up returning it and going with MC. At first look it seemed cheaper than MC, because we didn't get solids or surfacing with Gibbs. Mastercam, for the Integrex, required Mill level 3 and it was more $ than stripped Gibbs. When it became apparent that Gibbs' Integrex post proccessor was less developed than I had hoped and they started talking upcharging, I re-evaluated the whole package including solids and surfacing, and MC won on price as well as power. For multiaxis work (we design with Solidworks) solids is very well worth having.

MC support comprised of, Prototek Engineering, In-House (Dave Thomson post), and Forum, is way THE GREATEST.

I can't tell from your description if you want to turn or not. If so, go ahead and look at the MKIII Integrex. The early one is not too accurate, but our new one is pretty good.

Programming an Integrex is not easy either way if you are doing complex work.

If the work is simple, Mazatrol works. If the work is complex, MC is the only way to go.

If you are already a solidly competent MC lathe mill programmer and I was hireing you, I wouldn't let you waste one minute with Mazatrol.

Sorry was thinking Lathe.