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DRILLING MIC 6 ALUM


HEAVY METAL
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If your machine can, and you're going deep, use a deep hole cycle. (G83 with IJK on a HAAS)

 

Cast alum, (Mic6, K100 etc), is fairly easy to cut. A bit more abrasive, and more brittle, but it's very stable. On smaller drills you can run .006 to .012 chip load, double that for anything over .300" dia. Use short (stub) drills if you can.

 

'Rekd

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You can go a couple/three dia's deep if the drill's not too far down the hole. That's why I suggest using a deep hole cycle, it starts with a long peck, then reduces it the further down the hole it goes.

 

Kinky.

 

What you making? How big are the holes? And how deep?

 

'Rekd

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this stuff drills great if you have coolant thru drill i dont think we run anything under 100 IPM for any size carbide drill. for hss G73 does work great, as REKD said it is brittle, the harder you push the better it breaks up

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You may want to try parabolic drills. You can easily drill 5-10 times(dia) without retracting in 6061-T6. I have never pushed them to the limit in mic6 though. I am sure they are better than regular twist drills though. They are just a small amount more money.

 

The hole size is also much closer.

 

Mike

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I drill thousands of holes in alum at 10,000 RPM and 100-180 IPM , no peck unless the hole is deeper than 1", with standard hss drills. Use stub drills or the drill will squeel when it hits the part. The faster you feed the better off you are. The mic 6 chip is going to break up better than 6061. Use good coolant (trim e206) and about 10 on the refractometer. Forget that new vegetable junk the tooling guys are selling.

Don't be scared, shove the drill thru it.

 

bob

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I use GUHRING RT-100 coolant throught in stainless and alum.

 

speed for 1/4" dia. is

 

aluminium

rpm : 7830

feed : 97"/min

 

stainless 420

rpm : 2750

feed : 17.8"/min

 

peck G83 400% off dia.

It's very nice drill

 

in stainless I drill 7000 hole in 1" dept cut before regrind

 

very very nice

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