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OT torque wrench


wildcat99
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What torque wrench does everyone use to tighten collet nuts?

 

We have ISO30 toolholders and ER32 collets tightened to 100ft-lbs. We have been using a round-beam type with 0to150 ft-lbs range. It takes ~75lbs of force to get 100ft-lbs making it difficult to tighten smoothly while watching the needle.

 

No one seems to make a longer beam-type wrench anymore. We have tried the click type, but those are too easy to overtorque and need to be set to zero when not using.

 

I like the beam type without a lot of parts and pieces to re-calibrate, replace, etc.

 

I don't know much about the dial type, but that may be what we have to go to for a longer wrench.

 

Any thoughts? I appreciate all your suggestions.

cheers.gif

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We had a "tool tightening fixture" from Kennemetal. I would imagine that other people make them also. It was pretty cool. It was just like a standard tool tightening fixture but you could measure the tourqe as you were tightening the tool. This way, it never requires anything special. We are going to get one here soon. Have a look in the Kennemetal book. let me know if you need more info.

 

Mike

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Thanks for the info Mike,

I found the Kennametal fixture and it sounds like just what we need, but I don't know if I can justify the cost vs a new torque wrench.

 

This one is electronic. I haven't found any others, but maybe someone makes a non-electronic version that is a little cheaper??

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Another thing to consider is that Wildcat99 has a router that does not use drive tangs on the holder. It looks like the Kennemetal fixture holds the toolholder from turning by the drive tangs

 

I too have looked for a fixture that will hold a 40 taper toolholder for our router.

 

what I do Wildcat is use the spanner wrench and the open end wrench (across the flats on the toolholder) and tighten by pushing down on the spanner wrench till it feels good and tight.

 

so far never had a problem, dont forget that a Router will not give plus or minus .001" accuracy anyway so exact torqe is not so important

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Eric:

 

Yeah, I wondered how the fixture would grip our holders. If it uses drive tangs then it won't work for us.

 

We have a tightening fixture bolted to the table with a steel slide to grip across the flats. We use the spanner wrench "end" on a torque wrench to tighten.

 

We check torque to prevent tool slippage and over-tightening which can ruin collets. Here our operators setup and change tools so we want something quick, easy and consistent.

 

If we know torque is correct, that is one factor we don't need to question when troubleshooting.

cheers.gif

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Why is it you do not like the click type wrenches? I understand that when used incorrectly (jerking to get the click) you can overtighten using a click type. Although, applying 75 ft/lbs while trying to read the bouncing pointer couldn't be too accurate either?? If you torque everything to the same torque value or maybe two torque values you can purchase pre-set torque wrenches where there is no adjustment, they are a click type however. I beleive Proto(stanley), snap-on, precision instruments(I beleive they also make the snap ons), SK, etc... make fixed ones. All of the above also make dial type, most of the dial type also have a little pointer that shows the highest torque value reached - very useful. If you've ever tested the accuracy of a beam type torque wrench they are not very accurate, and get worse the more they are used.

 

 

HTH

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I like the beam type for simplicity, no other reason. As far as accuracy, even if it is +/-4% (96 to 104ft-lbs range) that is OK. We've used the same beam-type wrench, daily, for 3yrs and checked it against a new wrench and there is virtually no difference.

 

I've had experience with only one click type that we have here. It must have been worn out, I don't know. The adjustment knob didn't seem to change anything and the "click" was very difficult to detect. This particular wrench is used very little and sits in a drawer most of the time.

 

We may have to get a good click type in here and try it. Either way, a longer wrench would help smooth the tightening motion without needle bouncing/jerking.

 

How often do you have to calibrate the click types and how much more accurate are they?

 

Thanks for the information. cheers.gif

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quote:

Jeff:

You've never had a tool slip or ruined a collet from overtightening?

Me personally? I cant recall one slipping or ruining a collet,except when I rapid the tool straight into the workpiece LOL.

I've done that a couple times biggrin.gif

 

If i'm hoggin,I'll use the solid holder with the weldon shanks so they cant pull out.

but our collets are mainly for drills or finishing endmills.

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Wildcat, most torque wrenches are rated for a certain amount of times used. The amount of cycles they can do before being recalibrated depends on where you are using it in its torque range. If I remember correctly they'll do 50,000 cycles at less than 50% of its range and at the top end of the range they drop waaaaay down to 5,000 or 10,000. I really like my snap-on torque wrench that you do not have to set to zero when not being used, it has a little thumb screw to set the torque and you just leave it there until you want to change it with no ill effects. I also had a Proto that I would forget to set to zero for weeks at a time that stayed in calibration??? The Proto replaced a "cheapo" 3/8" torque wrench that literally could not be calibrated, you were lucky to get it to +/- 15%.

 

 

HTH

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