Rib Electrode

[Rick46]

I have a rib electrode on the FTP called R_M.Z2G..under the MCX2 files directorty.. I was wondering if someone could take a look at it possibly tell me where I could improve my paths or maybe a different approach all together.. The finish Im getting has some steps and waves in it.. I know I could get better results and wondering if anyone could point me in right direction.. I always have problems with rib type electrodes Im guessing do to deflection ... We have work NC here that has a thin wall machining path that works pretty good but I would rather use MC.. any help appreciated..

 

 

Rick

[SweetCUMMINS]

looks like its on a shank.? Is there any way you could have it mounted on an erowa or 3r so it would be more rigid and maybe leave a larger radius at the bottom where it would connect to a full width style block/shank? I would just try that then your feeds and speeds hopefully wouldnt need adjusted. they look a little quick for how it appears to be mounted on a shank

My .02

[SweetCUMMINS]

Oh and maybe try a finish flowline for a surface toolpath

[SweetCUMMINS]

One more idea

 

if the ends are overhang then maybe have to cylindrical boss's attached to help it be more rigid, only work if the ends are cleared though.

[Rick46]

Well theres actually a .750 x 3.0 inch base that is welded on top of 3R rod that is not shown in picture.. the rod is just a visual to show which way it needs to be cut in relation to the pin on the side of 3R rod..Im thinking the trode is flexing due to the fact its 3 inches long and .163 at the widest point minus overbrun.. thanks,,

[SweetCUMMINS]

ahh, what about the radii on bottom and the cylindrical boss's on the ends??

[Rick46]

are you talking about radius left at bottom of electrode ?? its 1/16 , which is left over by the cutter..cylindrical bosses ??? lost me there.

[Matt Berube at Ferron Mold]

When I have thin 'trodes to cut I leave .03-.05 stock on the roughing toolpath. This provides a lot more rigidity for the finishing ops.

 

I would also reduce the stepdown on the finishing to .004 or .005

 

I have never used a cutter like you have defined. If I was cutting this it would be with a 1/4 ball end mill (carbide)...

 

Occasionally, if the extra stock on roughing doesn't work, I will rough down to Z-1., then finish down to Z-1., rough to Z-2., finish to Z-2., etc...

[Piglet Trespassers William]

I have done such things bu thousands and your technological approach is radically wrong .

I would use solid rough will for alluminium

3 flutes dia 12-14 mm for every rough cut

At first stage I would first make 2 sides in y direction while

electrode still rigid

I would go conventional if it is rigid less than I expect .

I would go S2000 F500 MM/MIN FOR END MILL 12 MM .

Next I would make upper finish after roughing it

I would use ball mill 3 mm .

Take note the rib is wstill rigid

Now I would rough and finish one of the tapered walls

I would use ball mill 14 mm for finish all directions conventional

And than the last side .

Think about it and you will see my technology is bullet-proof