No it's dragging the front of the tool and causing a ridge and I think normal endmills should cut flat. I had our photographer take some pics of it, but he hasn't gotten around to sending them to me yet.

Wes, I have a problem cutting my part using the path that you explained earlier. I cut the part and it is not coming out in a perfect cone shape. It looks like the leading edge was deflecting downwards into the part and creating a spiral shape. The weird part is the trunnion isn't moving, I checked the code and didn't find any A axis moves. All I can think of is my endmill is deflecting but it is a 5/8 carbide and not taking that hard of cut, also the gouge seems to be deeper where it is taking an even lighter cut. I'm using a Raptor workholding dovetail clamp on the part. For the life of me I cannot figure out why this one is happening to me.

X6

Also the canned cycle should have a g98 code vs a g99 because otherwise it will crash though my part while rotating.

Bump

So i tired to do some simple 5 axis drilling and came across another error. The tool is drilling at A90. and the first hole comes out fine. Then the b axis should rotate and drill again. But the post is making the A axis go to A-90 and in the process trying to crash through my tools. I thought this post was setup to not go in a -A direction but I guess I'm wrong. Any help would be awesome. I'm on the Haas VF-TR Series 5 axis Trunnion Mill post. N4 M11 N5 M13 N6 T10 M6 N7 G0 G54 G90 X0. Y-6.195 B210. A90. S10000 M3 N8 M10 N9 M12 N10 G43 H10 Z2.7205 M8 N11 G83 G99 Z.2189 R.9705 Q.03 F7.2 N12 M11 N13 M13 N14 Y6.195 B150. A-90. N15 M10 N16 M12 N17 M11 N18 M13 N19 Y-6.195 B90. A90. N20 M10 N21 M12 N22 G80 N23 M9 N24 M5 N25 G0 G28 G91 Z0. N26 M30

Really then I just sent you a message on youtube then about this particular thing.

I think your right. I found this video online and look at the feed rate. It looks like 2535. I think I just need to crank that sucker up.

So i tired to do some simple 5 axis drilling and came across another error. The tool is drilling at A90. and the first hole comes out fine. Then the b axis should rotate and drill again. But the post is making the A axis go to A-90 and in the process trying to crash through my tools. I thought this post was setup to not go in a -A direction but I guess I'm wrong. Any help would be awesome.

I did a just did a part where my filter tolerance was set very loose. I had verified most of the program and everything looked good. Then I set my surfacing quality to normal length and better surface quality and ran the part. Only after I ran the part I noticed a gouge. I have 12 different pockets at different angles and only one of them has a gouge. I use almost the same geometry and just shift my tool plane. For some reason the pocket that gouges doesn't compute like the rest. The toolpath size for the pocket that gouges is 92.3k where as the pockets that don't gouge are exactly the same on the settings and their toolpath is 201.9k. I played with the filter tolerance and can get the gouge to show up or not show up just by changing the surface quality from better to best. It's this a glitch I should report?

So did it start to move faster. I am playing around with my 5 axis right now and have the same problem. It is feeding at 999.99 feedrate but the table looks like it's moving at 5% rapids. If anyone has any idea about how to fix this that would be awesome.

All in the same part or different parts?

Thanks that looks much better

This is what I'm trying to accomplish but the way it outputs is not right.

How do I do a 5 axis tool path where the A axis will lock at 59 degrees and I can use a flat cutter to surface the part while the B axis is spinning. I have seen it done online but cannot find any videos right now of what I am looking for. I Did a multisurface 5 axis path that looks like what I want to do but when I post it comes out looking nothing like what It should. Also, how do stop the tool from retracting as much as it does.

That is one of the nice things about using wear vs control. Because you can have a zero value in your offsets you can have cutter comp turned on in a hole with very little room for your cutter vs control where you have to have a large lead in room for your cutter. Stick with wear, nearly everybody on this site swears by it and most of them say they would almost never go back to control.

I have this part coming up soon. And to be honest it is a little above my head. I have a general Idea about how to attack this part but any extra input would be nice. I am looking at using our VF4 with the 5axis trunnion. Any ideas about what tool paths to use on this part? FIXTURE.MCX-6

Oscar is right, I think my brain was in Solidworks format. There are many ways to draw that kind of geometry and I found many ways to draw this up. I was sitting there for like 10 minutes trying to figure out the way to draw this in the way that made the most sense to me. It didn't seem like that big of a deal to draw the way I was trying, but I have realized using Mastercam there are some ways that you are forced to complete a task. I think I should submit a feature request form to Mastercam.

Try a higher rpm. The more rpm you put into the spindle the more power and torque the motor will produce. What kind of material are you cutting into, if your cutter carbide?

Yea Keith, I understand how to work around it but I was trying to find out if there was a way to have a line with a fixed length follow another entity.

Well, that gives me a 2" length of the arc, but I was trying to anchor the beginning line at 90 degrees and have a strait line that is 2 inches in length. The drafting length is the one that I am going for. Bear, when I use your method the analyzed dimension (which is the arc) is the number that comes out to be 2" and the liner distance between them is .007 too short.

I was helping out one of my co-workers yesterday and was having trouble drawing very simple geometry. I am trying to draw line 2" long, whos endpoints are along a 14.5" arc. Is there a way to do this without having to find out the angle and draw a line from the center to get the geometry correct.

Not from what I have seen. Incremental retract plane will retract from where it had just cut and not where top of stock is. For example you have a part that is set to a retract of .200 inc, and you are cutting into the part 1" depth of cut. The program will G01 down to a depth of z-1.0 and do it's cut, after the cut is done the tool will not retract to z.200 like you might think, it will retract to z-.800 because it is .200 above where the tool was last. If you are in a pocket and transferring to the outside of the part then you have just crashed .800 through your part. Additionally, depending on where your geometry is selected the clearance plane will be relative to the position of your geometry. So if I have some geometry at -.300 and more geometry at -.500 the clearance move where it moves in the ZYX directions, instead of coming up to an absolute Z clearance plane like z.100 and will hit that point every single time. The error that I had, I was contouring the outside of the parts and my depth was set to -.500 incremental, all of my geometry was set to the top of my part, except one that I happened to miss that was chained at the bottom of my part. So in my part it was cutting at z-.500 and suddenly on one chain it shot down and started cutting at z-.875. If i would have set my depth to -.500 absolute, all that would have happened is the tool would have re-passed at z-.500. But, since my depth of cut was based off the geometry I have to but a new collet now. Edit, Also if you are doing bottom up geometry then it is safer to to have absolute geometry, If my part is 6" above Z0. then you set your retract plane to 6.2 absolute and the tool will hit that plane every time. Sometimes your program will be a little longer because the tool will do a lot more feeding but it will be much safer in the long run.

Thanks for your help.

I'm trying to find out if there is a cross reference on inserts for a shell mill that I have. I have a Mitsubishi BAP400R holder and looking to buy inserts not from Mitsubishi. I don't know what inserts I was using, the packaging was lost. Thanks in advance.