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Leon82

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Posts posted by Leon82

  1. 2 hours ago, Jake L said:

    This might be dumb but I'll put it out there anyway. If I recall correctly a few years ago when we got our Quaser MV184 the first time we went to tool change it alarmed out. The guy helping with the install changed the "hands" on the ATC and the issue was fixed. I believe he said the machine could run CAT40 or BT40 by just changing the ATC "hands". 

    Possible this is the case with your machine too? Again, I could be way off here.

    Yes it's just the fingers on matsuura

    • Thanks 1
  2. 6 hours ago, huskermcdoogle said:

    IMHO, that's too much feed for Titanium to keep a straight hole and for the drill to hold up.

    I'd be .0015-.002 ipr and about 110sfm, for best hole quality I would use a Kennametal YPL drill, three margin, acts like a gundrill.  For the cheapest thru coolant drill option I would use a Kennametal GOdrill.  Marginless, won't bind up in the hole, usually very good bang for the buck.

    Thanks.

     

    I went back to the guring firex for now. I'll look at those

  3. 3 hours ago, huskermcdoogle said:

    Sounds to me like you have a tuning issue (low likelihood) or hardware issue in the drive board to me.  If your Z-axis uses the same drive board as X or Y, you could consider swapping it with another axis and see if the problem goes away.  If that's the case then you have a bad drive.  There may be more sophisticated testing you could do.  But I am uninitiated in troubleshooting them by means of anything other than plug and chug.

    Do you have more than one of these model machines to compare with?  If you feed it up in z slowly, stopping and starting frequently, is the load dead smooth and repeatable?  Unless you have a right angle head, you can't really easily do a test that would repeat an issue I once had.  But if you side mill while compound feeding that axis with another while it is loaded (Z+) , you would be able to see it clear as day in the finish.

    we have two but one is manual guide i and the other is the new ihmi.  but they do the same thing

  4. 1 hour ago, JParis said:

    Here's why I don't use that often..

    By creating a closed contour, I can set a reasonably steep ramp around the contour. In the end, many times that is faster that the re-machining option.

    I can take 2 ramped passes around when using the remachining option I generally need many more step downs.

    plus re machining doesn't respect internal radius

  5. 34 minutes ago, JB7280 said:

    My question was more regarding the actual "angle" of the tool deflection. From my experience, I find that if I take a heavy enough chip, I get deflection, and a tapered wall.  Using radius comp will just move the position of the taper.  Sometimes it seems like a spring pass is the only way to get rid of that taper, which can sometimes result in a bad finish.  

    So asking questions isn't allowed anymore?  In my opinion, that mindset, is part of why this is becoming a lost art.  

    i usually use a stub flute and have to step it down

  6. it rounds the top even with a flat endmill.

    if the corner were shart technically it would have more material on it than what you set. there is a setting for stock to leave not to round corners in contour. maybe something similar. or a check box in tool path fillet to make sharp

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