An X or P is usually valid for your Fanuc Control. If you are calling from a subprogram resident in the memory,the dwell is called with a D. This is a strange problem that seems to be resident in the memory. Do you have P9xxx programs that you can see? I'm not a router guy, but I am a bit familiar with Fanuc Controls of that period.

A shot in the dark, some of the older controls had subprograms that were just macros to do canned cycles. Any value that was input was the new default until a new value was input. That your control will take a G83 call is probably telling us that it is not setup like this,but have you tried adding a P0. to your G83 line?

Trim the geometry on the right side and it will work. It's beneficial to chain the geometry in a case such as this to make sure the geometry is correct

I would rather not go the nethasp route at this time. We have a seat of Proe with a floating license, and some of the people that use it have a problem remembering to log off when they are finished. I tried serial cable onfigurations,both null and straight, and neither would read the hasp. The only cable I've got to work is a cable from a remote Zip Drive that has all 25 pins connected straight through(no jumpers).We are going to order 25 wire cable and make what we need. Thanks

gcode, Thanks for the tip.We have 9pin-25 pin cables laying around here,but I could not find a 25pin-25pin cable. I will go to the local Radio Shack and see if they one. If this works, it would be ideal. pno, The reason we didn't connect all 25 pins we just had 10 wire cable that we use to make serial cable and I thought if we had it connected like the diagram we have it would work.I was wrong. Thanks for the replies

We are getting a new ceiling put in the room today. My idea was to run a cable along with all the other cables that go up into the ceiling and if anything happens to the computer(stolen)the cable will simply be disconnected and the hasp will be secure in the ceiling.Losing a computer is bad enough, but we have two level3 mill (1 with lathe)and that is a considerable amount of money.I need to do what I can to protect it,and this is the best idea I've got.

Rather long story, Recently we had a computer stolen during a weekend when nobody except the security guard was working. The local police came out to investigate and make a report. Several days later the guy that used the computer got a phone call from what he thought was the police telling him that they had stopped a vehicle with several computers and they were pretty sure they had his but they needed his password to make sure. Not suspecting any deception, he gave it to them. "Good news, we've got it." He races down to the police station to get his computer back,but they have no idea what he is talking about. The thief wasn't smart enough to defeat the password but clever enough to come up with an alternate plan.I'm not necessarily worried about the hasp, I'm more worried about the computer it's atached to. I take the hasp and lock it up each night and it is a pain.

We would like to move our hasps to a more secure location. We made a cable but the hasp is not being read. Does anyone know what pins need to be connected? If this question is inflammtory or the information is propriatary, please disregard this question. Thanks

There is a site called cncwarrior.com that has a topic about the 6T control with good information about initial setup with this control. We got an elderly lathe recently with a GNFanuc 6TC control and this information helped me.

If you have "Start finish path at nearest entity" selected,it will sometimes create a comp error as you describe

Thanks Millman. This file was put up to be shared just as you did two months ago. It was your file that was originally put up that showed me what the possibilities might be.I'm still working on it. I've taken (learned) much from this forum and would like to give a little something back. Thanks

I've uploaded a version of Millman's Setup sheet that has some changes . It is (I think) in the text & post folder. It is named HTML2CM. Would somebody try to download it? I had trouble getting anything to open on the FTP Site. I think it is the security they have here at work. Thanks

This was a change by user request in V9. There was a poll taken on this forum recently and the majority of users evidently like the idea of loosing control of the jump points. I liked the way it was handled in V8 and wish it was a switchable option.

It is not a stupid question.The problem has been there since about the time Mastercam gave the option for subs in Version 8. Try posting your code using mpamc4 and see if these retract moves are what you want. They are what I want and I guess I'm going to talk to my dealer to get it done. I've been trying to get the mpmaster post to output these moves and cannot get reliable results. If anybody has a solution for this, please post.

Jack, I don't think there is a coolant manufacturer in business that would agree with your recomendation to add straight water to the coolant. It will do exactly what you said you are having problems with...it will separate and there is no way to fix it other than a complete coolant change out. Water should never be added to the coolant,the coolant must be added to the water. A system like James (I'm sure glad he's smarter than he looks) describes is a pretty good set-up, but also like he said,it will get rich due to evaporation. A weekly refractometer check would be beneficial to keep the concentration at a desirable level. Absolutely stay away from any coolant that requires biocides,the cure is worse than the disease. Since the harmful bacteria that develops in the coolant is anerobic,it is very beneficial to aerate the tank 24-7,just very low pressure all the time. It won't eliminate the growth, but it will retard it.As far as Hangsteffer coolant is concerned,you cannot check the bacteria with bacteria test strips,it will be so high it is out of range,even when it is new,this is supposedly "good bacteria" that will kick the crap out of the harmful bacteria. I suppose that could happen,I don't know. I think the fact is that there is no coolant currently available that will do everything a coolant should or shouldn't do. Sorry for the long post,but I have spent the last six months in coolant hell,learned enough to know I wish somebody would invent dry,chipless machining.Just one more thing,when a coolant salesperson comes around,run like hell.