Hi everyone! Make sure you learn alot! And remembber typinng and speling is imoprtent! Later all!

I think I found it as this formula ... Diametrical Pitch = 25.4 / 3 Or 8.4667 ... So the closest to standard is 8. And if I understand correctly the cutter number goes backward of standard teeth. so 1 becomes 12 to 13 2 is 14 to 16 and so on ... So I really need a #7 x DP-8 ... ?

Does anyone know where I can find out if this is correct?

Hey out there, I have got a question I need to clear up. I have a gear called out as such, 246.0 Dia. 240.0 P.C.D. 80 Teeth 3.0 m 20' pressure angle I want to make sure I get the right gear cutter to do the job. I think I need to get a #7 cutter size and a 10 Diametral Pitch. Am i doing this right? Thanks in advance, Rick

On a Haas the turret is considered "A" axis so maybe it's a load meter for the tool turret? Not sure why that would matter though.

Here is the quick fix that we have done on all of our machines. On the return line that comes from the tool release piston on the front of the machine (it is the 1/4 plastic tube that runs to the right NOT the 3/8 that runs on the left!!) we drill a small 1/8 hole to help the machine keep from developing back pressure in the air selenoids. So far we cut back on both tool release faults and also shifting problems. The line on the left is the pressure line so be careful not to drill the wrong one. If you are in doubt remove the air from the machine unconnect the right side then reconnect the air. It should NOT be leaking air. If you disconnected the pressure side (left)it'll be leaking air like crazy! You need to put the hole in the one that is disconnected and not leaking air! What happens is the tool release bleeds air into the selenoids in the back and it is suppose to keep oil from building up there, it would probably work if the oil had somewhere to go but all it really seems to do is build perssure which is why disconneting the air from the whole machine works as well. HTH Rick

I put a repair manual on the FTP site that might help It's in /unspecified_downloads/Haas HTH Rick

Hey Chris ... Check your e_mail Rick

We program a park postion for shutdown at night that leaves both the x and z axis about 2" off the switches. we also put tool 2(empty pocket) in the turret. HTH Rick

We have 2 SL-30 and have had great success with them. Considering that we cut hex stock on them all day they have held up real good! We had a smaller version first but it could not hold up to the vibration no matter what we did. Are you getting it with a barfeeder? We had problems switiching programs back and forth between the machines because the barfeeder codes were different? We still need to change a few things to run them in opposite machines but mostly we keep the programming seperate for each. Other than that they have worked great.

Hey Brian, Welcome to the forum ... and as far as getting prints and drawings to you just remember to keep your e-mail up to date and if someone needs to they can e-mail it directly to you and not use the ftp. Later, Rick

I'll get mine when my avatar pops in ??? Someday ...

Well lets see ... Truck spring hangers. Fork truck counterweights threaded inserts. Bread dough mixing and forming conveyors. Military truck beds and boxes.(for command stations) Some medical stuff. A few various automotive pieces. (handles and such) Robot arms for foundry furnace. (to save from human burns!) And a few cookie dies! And the list is just the last few years ... I've been here almost 20 and have seen alot more go thru here.

Well ... they went out on the 20th ... 5 days before Christmas ... who's idea was that???

We are planning on roughing down the edges on a boring mill then cutting undersize slots .. we'll probably anneal it then before we start finishing ... If it looks bad (twisted) as i get closer to finish I may do it again.

Well they gave me a piece of 304 that has been flame cut to both length and width ... over size of course.

Okay I have a question ... When you are working with a piece of stainless plate that is 3 X 6.5 X 53.5 and you have to cut several slots and contours into it. Is it better to rough it in, then anneal/stress relive or do you do it before you even start? It has 20 slots that go thru and the countours match with the back side going about half way thru. The ends are also cut down to about .6 thick ... must be for mounting. The slots are bunched up in the middle of the plate using the center 36.0. So do I anneal first? or rough first? Rick

Cool three responses in 5 min ....

Hey Ben, can you post the file so I can see your tool path? Put on the FTP then I can download it from there. Rick

Sure hope they put that cool MC logo on it! I wouldn't want to mistake it for a broken tool ....

Thats weird you guys... you are suppose to use your mouse to get rid of that error. What I do is, push in my keyboard shelf then wedge my mouse between the desk and the enter key ... it works prety good!

Not sure .. but you can have my Boss if you would like him.

Howdy there Wabbit! Wickster

I think I like the verify better. You can control the speed there and let it cut the part from solid!

so Jammer, did you get to the bottom of the Rolldie? The issue of time that is. Not you being under the die itself. You know what I mean. Not that I'm mean of course. Better stop while I'm ahead! Not that I'm only a head! Rick