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Cuting Stainless disks


pete mcadams
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Hi Folks

I have to cut a bunch of 11 inch diamiter disks out of 1 inch 304 stainles plate. the job was quoted on for laser cuting but it can't cut that thick. I have a 15 inch wide plate to start with. I plan on clamping it down around the edges and leaving a small tab to hold the part in. I can grind the tab off later. For cutters I have a 3/4 Sandvik 390. Could go with a smaler solid carbide.

I would like any input or sugestions

thanks

pete

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Maybe it could be cut with a waterjet. I'm not sure as far as the perpendicular requirement on the outside of the part, but I'm pretty sure a waterjet could do it. Maybe even if the kerf is to much of an angle this could rough it then mill it or turn it.

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Pete, I think you could do a Contour- Ramp toolpath with pass at final depth - use 'Depth' - maybe .075 or .10 depth per. Put .010 shims under the sides where the clamps are. No tabs necessary. Cut depth should be .005 above the table. Just let the slug fall the .010. It won't go anywhere. With the helical toolpath the mat'l holding the slug at the end will slowly fade out and the slug will just lay there. Good luck.

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+1 Bernie...

 

I've done it that way also. But, as Gary mentioned, I had an operator who once, somehow, managed to get one wedged and ... well, it got ugly fast. frown.gif

 

So now, I'll ramp/contour the slug and leave .01 on the floor. Then I do one of two things, change tools to a smaller diameter to cut it out (Say you ramp with a 3/4, then part it out with a 3/8), or we'll leave the .01 skin, remove the part and hammer the slug out.

 

Just watch out... the .01 skin is sharp!!!

cheers.gif

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+1 to the other guys. Sandvik's R390 will do you just fine as long as you're using PM inserts instead of the PL... .125 DOC & ramping it @ 7° is very safe (they recommend up to 15°). I would also use a smaller dia. solid carbide to do the final break-through, but I would leave more than .010 for that op...

Also, thumbs up for running it unattended.

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