I always use er-32 on size collets this makes a big difference and the shortest holder possible. I also make sure to indicate the end mill and make sure its running true withing a few tenths at the most. And yes cut much faster and keep the rpm the same. I also run dry and when running at them speeds you really dont need air as my machine gets a good cleaning when im cutting like this. Its sprays chips like a power washer. I would start out at 175ipm but I really think you will end up around 230 ipm esp. with five flutes. Just watch for cutting in corners with five flutes and they can become clogged quick but not usually with a 10% step over. I cut that all the time with rpms of 4600 and feed rates of 200 plus with 10% percent step over with no air or coolant. I have had one end mill last for over 100 parts with no problem and was amazed. Now your machines plays a big part in this because if you dont have high speed machining then no matter what feed rate you use the path gets to many points it will not reach the feed rate. I have seen this to many times I tell people I cut them speeds all the time with no problems. Then I go and see them try it and there machine bogs down to 20% of there feed rate in areas. Then cant figure out why there having problems. So that is another thing to keep in mind. Wish I had a 50 taper to play with. That could really speed things up with that rigitity. Oh on that note make sure you set up is solid because if there is any vibrations due to lack of solid set up you can hang it up. Hope I did not ramble to much and good luck.

I am running mastercam x5 is there a way when you go to open a new file to make the default all files instead of mastercam files? Thanks

Thats a good work around. I am just surprised they dont have this built in. Thanks for you suggestion

I have a VF-2 Haas and wondering if there was a way to open the umbrella tool changer and keep it open and change tools and blow out chips. My Fadal I just type TC,1 and then it opens the tool changer and then I hit the button thats says cw or ccw. Thanks in advance

Thank you all for you help. I milled some 1018 today 1.25" depth of cut and a .05 step over with a rpm of 4600 and a feed rate of 225 ipm with no problem at all. I did 20 parts and the endmill didnt even look like it was used. I also ran it dry. And this was a on a 10hp power spindle on a fadal. So I just can imagine what a real machine could do. I really think I can go alot faster yet its just a matter of the endmill now. Again thank you all for the help.

Thank you JMC thats what I was looking for to see how it was broken down. Much appreciated

Thank you will try that.

I run alot of 1/2" carbide endmills in 1018. My question is what is the formula for figuring out chip thinning. Say my endmill specs 475 sfm and is 4 flute and recommends .003 to .005 per tooth. Now that is running it the standard way not high speed machining. Usually I like to cut full length of flutes, or full depth of pocket at 10 percent dia. of cutter. But I am always guessing on the speed and feed. So is there a formula for chip thinning? Thanks in advance.

Thank you I will give that a try.

Im using MX5 and using a fadal post inch. My question is when I pick a tap it automatical picks G84. But is there a way to make it pick G84.1 as a default instead when a tap is selected? Thanks in advance.

I was wondering if anyone used any programs to generate material list. Example right now I take a stack of prints and seperate steel and aluminum and then right down the stock sizes to figure out what to order. I was wondering if anyone had purchased any programs that aided in this process? Thanks

Thank you very much.

I was wondering where in Mastercam X5 to change the setting to make tools start with tool 1 and up in order. Thanks

thanks mic6 for the reply and picture just might have to give your suggestion a try seems cheaper going your route and looks like it does just as good. Thanks

Was wondering if any one has use the chip trap system for there haas? This is the product http://store-chiptrap.com/cart.html Im thinking of purchasing it and was wondering if any one has used it and could give an opinion on how they like it. Thanks in advance.

Thank you

In the past using mc9 they had a squash command do they have this feature in MC X4? Thank in advance.

well I just bought the calmotion unit its just as easy I guess. And yeah I knew I would take a jab for the fadal lol. Thanks for all the help.

what I was trying to do is load programs without having to have it hooked up to a computer. Just load program on a usb stick then carry the usb stick out to the machine and plug it in and load it. Is that how your doing it WenteQ?

I just bought a used fadal and it communicates with a rs232 cable. I know you can run a cable from the computer to the machine. Or you can buy a box for $650 that plugs into your rs232 in the back of your machine and then just plug a usb stick into it and read off that. My question is instead of paying $650 for the box could you just buy a rs232 converter to usb. Was wondering if anyone else has tried this.

I am looking at some used cnc and my question is one is a linear rail and one is a box way. In the long run when they need to be rebuild which is easier to rebuild. Would changeing the linear rail be easier to change with the bearing than a box way needing to be rescrapped. Just wondering if any one had any thoughts between the two when it comes to rebuilding them. Thanks

What im trying to do is that everytime I open mcX4 I want the default machine to be mill since thats all I do. Make it so I dont have to pick mill for my machine so its always set up that way. Hope Im makeing sense. Thanks in advance for the help

I did forget to mention that when I come into a corner I do go down to 50 percent on the feed otherwise it sounds real bad lol.

I cut alot of 1018 steel and I run a 1/2" 5 flute carbide endmill at 5000rpm ~ 200ipm 1.25" deep cut the full length of the endmill with .05 step over. I also run it dry with air blast and it last forever and sounds great. The blocks im cutting are 1.25" thick and 3.25" wide and 7" long and im cutting almost have of it away. One endmill last me 25-30 parts easily. I have had it last 40 parts, I just run it until it breaks. At worst im paying $45 an endmill so I figure it cost me around a little more than $1 or so a part. Pretty good considering how fast it knocks the parts out.

Thank you very much. I thought this was to simple for mastercam not to do.