from what one of my cusctomer told me 410ss is more heat resistant than 416ss. don't know for sure that was what he told me. he made exhaust headers for hi-perf cars and used only 410ss

thank you columbo for the help. i got the file and it is good. thank you and thank you guys for sudjesting the sweep it worked for me thank you again bob

i have a pipe i need to draw. it is a mold for a tuned pipe for a sled. it is basicly a " s " shaped curved line that has to change diameters along its length. going from 55mm to 153mm back to 35mm over the length of the whole line. if it was a straight line i could revolve it but because it is curved i dont now how. i have the line drawn and the perpendicular lines showing where the diameter is but now i need to put a skin on it. how would i best do this. i have v9 and x at my disposal and i have solid works i can use. not much experiance on sw though. if anyone wants the file to try it on i can email it you. thanks in advance.

newchsmcam that sounds like it would be easier to do than measure with height gage. ty bob

Doug thanks for the reply. that is what i was thinking. just was not sure if that was the right place to measure from. (spindle face) i will do that tuesday morning. Sheffer it was our responsibility to provide a master to set it up. we do not have one. we are a small shop that only in the last year, since i am there, have we even done any work with a tolerance of less than +-0.030". they were just in the repair for cement plants and such. not very good. just very fast. that is what they have done for years. now that i am there we are getting more precise jobs. we did not even have carbide endmills. just hss. yuk. but i am turning them around. it is getting much better to live with. thanks for all your help. will fix things tomorrow and let u know how it worked bob

we just got a new Haas TM-2 with the Marpos tool probe. when the tech came to install it he did not use a calibrated tool master to set it up. now it is out on the z lengths. how could i measure a tool length to make a standard? measure from the spindle nose to tool tip with a height gage? or is it measured from an imaginary spot i will not be able to find? we do not have a tool presetter. how else could i do it? could i by a bt40 master tool with a pullstud? i have only found master tools that do not have provisions for a pull stud. they just drop in to presetters. please help. i really want to use the new touch probe. it is cool lol. bob

millman i understand you. it was not like i did not have 2 of the 3 cnc mills up and running while i was fiddling with the 3rd. but you know how it goes. as for what type of machines i have : i have a fulland with a mits meldas 520am control, a matsuura with a yasnac mx2 control, and a leadwell with a fanuc control. can not send or recieve from any of them. i am using the keyspan adapter that has been recommended many times on this board and the same setting i have on the main puter that does work with all machines. but i am using a 9 pin to 25 pin converter between the keyspan and my comm cables to the machines. is that ok? or should i be making up a cable 9 pin one end and 25 pin other end? if i have to i will do it. only 10 mins of wiring. hopefully this extra info helps someone figure out m problem and find a sollution thanks bob

I just got a keyspan usb to serial port adaptor and i can not get it to communicate with my machines. is there some settings i have not found or tricks or tips to get it working? we are swamped at work and i need to drip feed large programs and still send programs to our other machines so i desided to bring in my laptop to either drip feed or to send to the other machines while main puter is dripping. but i need to set it up to work. i tried to set it up 1 morning this week and the boss was not too happy with me wasting my time and not getting it to work. so any help well great.. bob

i got the pricing for the spade drills and boring bar and the boss calculated it all up and submitted the quote. my job is done. for now. until we get the job or not that is. thanks again for all your help guys bob

we can drill from both sides. holes size is 1.625 +.o2o. so we could do it. will need to look for tooling and then a machine to turn it. thanks all bob

Hello all i have a quote to do for drilling 1.625 dia x 18" through hole. what would be the fastest and best way to do this? boring that would be out of the question i think. right? the part is 4" and change od x 18" long. fairly large quantity. new machine is not out of the question if needed. thanks for you great help that will be coming bob

how should the axis be in relation to the back? could you post a quick file to show me? my part is 3" x 3" x 24" long held on A axis along X. i face mill, drill and thread mill npt olong the 4 sides. not hard. in MC it back plots and verifies great. so i was thinking it was my post. (the person who made the post for us was not a pro and i had to fix it when he was done. ) in MC it looks good from all views. bob

i am having problems with some simple 4th axis positioning programs. i can post A0, A90, A180 with out problems but A270, or back face when i post it out i get not A rotation and the error i get is "only single axis rotaion is allowed". i am using mc9.1 and a modified mpmaster post for a FULLAND mill with a MELDAS control. i get no errors posting front and bottom but it is the back that is not working. please help. i have managed to cheat and get the job programed but it is frustrating to edit the code every time i repost an op. bob

+1000 for Carpenter stainless. i was working on some gun parts in 410ss and we tried some regular ss for the prototypes. no repeatability from one to the next. switched to Carpenter and from the first to the last part 3 yrs later we were getting the exact same tool life and part size. thats 3 yrs, 24-7, 150 parts per day. never had to guess on when i will change a tool again. nice

we have a mx1 on our matsurra and our g54 z is always 0. we touch our tools of the top of the part and go from there. or if we use a 2 inch touch probe we put z-2.0 in our g54. and from there we only use the g54 z to adjust the overall z on the part. what kind of machine is it on? maybe i can find some old notes from one of the other shops i have been at and give you some more help. any other questions let me know.

kovar is nasty stuff. tons of cobalt 30-40% if i remember right. only luck i had was with name brand cobalt drills 50-60sfm and push like stainless.we used osg ex-gold, but guhring and others good drills will do it. make sure your coolant is in the 8-10% also. and good stuff also. do not rub it cut it. we had great luck even form tapping all the way down to 2-56. just remember to cut not rub. or you can chuck that piece in the trash.

or you could put a point in the center of the hole and pick point then circle and in leadin/lead out page use start from point and 0 line and rad and never gouge a hole again and no math to do. i love it that way for the same stuff.

i have cut corian before. we used 3/4" 3 flute 10000 rpm and 100 plus ipm. it was more a go slow we hav lots of time on this job and no extra material so be f***** cafefull. we had MATSURAS with 15000 rpm spindles and at some points in the differant parts we used it all dry no coolant. just blow the chips away with the air gun. good sharp carbide cutters and chipping should not be an issue. lots of dust/chips but keep a shopvac close and clean up after. mske sure you wipe the table and way covers with oil after as they will dry out and rust.

rough out the middle and leave .005" on bottom with endmill. then with dove tail cutter cut 2 roughing passes and 1 finish pass. speeds and feeds same as above. works all the time for me. just remember to only cut at 1 z depth with the dove tail cutter. use cutter comp on dia. only

i convert ai files everyday here. set your line width to 1 pt. in illustrator, save as ai or eps from illustrator. then just file convert next menu eps in mc router 9.1. you will have to convert all the splines to lines and arcs. but you will have to toolpath window all and set tool comp to off, no lead in or out and rapid to depth. turn on filter. back plot and save geometry to another level and then you are good to use that geometry for your programing. if you can machine splines you can skip that last part. my control does not like splines. if you need help email me the files and i can convert for you

what kind of waterjet are you running and what control? i have 2 flows with the lynx controls and no problems at all posting tabs. how are you making your tabs? are you drawing them or are you using router and letting it put the tabs in?

thanks for the quick work. that did it. i knew it was something simple

how do you print or plot a drawing with out the little x y direction simbol in the bottom left hand corner? probably something very simple right?

the fedex guy just showed up with the goodies. very shiny box. wonder how much i can sell it for on ebay:)

i have the logitech mx510 and love it. the mx1000 is also very good and it is cordless and rechargable. the resolution of it is also very high. so it is great for very fine details