If you have a lot of parts to cut put them in at a 45 deg. angle to keep your bearings lubricated.

They'll quit complaining once you take there heads off

If your holes are big enough, could you put your holes in fist and bolt it down to another piece?

Setting a "check" surface always fixes that for me.

Thanks. That's the way I usually do it. I was hoping there was an easier way. I do a good bit of radius pass cutting to a center line.

Anyone know a good way to comp a ball mill in XZ or YZ so the radius of the tool doesn't cut past my contour?

Flowline didn't work so well with this but blend ( I have never used before ) worked well. I may have found a new favorite. Thanks for everybody's help!

When I do the other side of this block I will give that a try and see if it works any better for me.

Anubis WINS...I would have never thought of that. I put my starting point way out in space about 5 inches off my block and it changed directions. Thanks alot

Yea, I moved it to see if it would change.....and nothing.

This has got to be something simple. I am cutting the top of a block using surface finish parallel and I have never had any issues with this till now. How do I get my tool to change directions from conventional to climb mill? I usually just change my machining angle 180 and it changes no problem. Now no matter what I try it keeps cutting from the same direction. I only have one corner that I can start from. Could it be features that I am going around causing this problem? I have got my tool set to cut one way, maybe I should set it to zigzag and forget about it.

You have to purchase the current spec from Chrysler for $50 or find somebody who has that spec that will give you a copy. Be careful... they change them often.

Go with the tapered reamer if you have to tap, I have done this a lot and it works great. A 3/4 pipe tap is nothing to shrug your shoulders at, I have seen these explode.(Collet's are bad for these!) Lock-er in good and tight and use your Z to adjust depth. Start shallow and work your way down.

Well.....I tried to copy my config files and lost all my toolbars. I just got off the phone with my reseller and he got that fixed for me. Now i've got to set up my machines again. As soon as I get MU2 put back in i'm going to hook up my other hard drive and try to get my post back. When I talked to my reseller he told me how and what to do but he was talking 100 mph. so i'm not sure if i wrote all this down correctly. I guess i'll find out soon enough. I was told to got to mcx / mill / post and copy & past my machine post over and then go to cnc_machine to get my control and definition files and copy & past them over and that should do it. I'm not sure but i've got a feeling there is going to be more to it than that!

Yep !!! I screwed it all up I'll call my re-seller and see If I can get them to fix this for me.Thanks anyways guys

Thans Thad !! I would not have thought of that!

Thanks for your help....I'm excited about the new computer but not so excited about setting the thing up. I would like to learn how to do some of this stuff myself instead of having to make a phone call and have someone do it for me.

I'm expecting my new computer to come in today and was wandering if there is anything I can do to make the transition a little easier. I have never set up my own machine posts befor and I know thats where im going to get stuck. Is there any files that I should upload to our server and then bring back when I get the new system online? I'll be moving up from XP to Win7.

I use STL files to verify alot and I use "Compare to STL." as well. It works great if you are willing to put the time in. When you bring in your STL. file, you have to make sure it lines up with your model correctly. A little off (.001) and it can give some odd results.

If they SAY they outperform Fraisa...Tell them to bring one in and prove it!

Be sure to draw your tool in the right plane...

I found some excelent tooling from Kennametal that seems to to do a great job. I have some face mills that hold a variety of different insert in the same holder and a set of roughing end mill from 1/2" to 1-1/2" that all use the same style insert. I just order different grades of carbide for different apps. Best advise is to find a GOOD tool rep. and do alot of shopping to find what best fits YOUR shops application.

I've been thinking of moving to AZ for the last couple of years, I just need a GOOD reason to go. I'm tired of this snow and ice crap for 6 months at a time.

I take it this position has already been filled? I checked the link and it says job no longer available.

Justin... selecting partial chain got me just what I was looking for..