Rekd, Using the newest version of the MPFADAL2 post (the one that came on the 9.1 SP2 system disk) - changing the spaces switch from 0 to 1 to any other number does not affect the number of spaces within the posted code.... This is the switch at the top of the post: quote: spaces : 1 #Number of spaces to add between fields I had to comment out the: quote: spaces = zero in the various places to get it working right. I do usually set spaces to 0 for normal posting to delete all the spaces in my output code, but I like the spaces when in debug mode so that I can more easily read what is going on.... I am currently outputing with the debug on so that I can see where things are happening. I was just trying to figure out how the spaces thing actually worked. my MC defaults changed (happens every time I update) and the default program number was zero again - keep forgeting that one..... I reset my default in the ops tab to #1 - all fixed on the prog number.

I was editing the latest version of the MPFADAL2 post (dated 5/28/03) for my specific FADAL when I noticed that the "spaces" switch wasn't working anymore in the posted code. I ended up editing out the "spaces = zero" lines in ptoolcomment, ptime, and psof and got back control of the spaces in the code output. However, I could not figure out how the "spaces" worked in the "older" post - it does, but I can't follow how it did it. It seems pretty evident in the newer post ("!spaces"). Another question that arose with the newest version of the MPFADAL2 post is that the Program Number always comes up as "O0000" now. It comes up as "O0001" with the last version. However, I can't find where the variable "progno" is set. I presume it is passed from MC, but where can I set the default to come up as #1 rather than 0? Thanks!! Forgot to mention: I am using 9.1 SP2 with all the latest adds, etc. [ 10-28-2003, 12:22 PM: Message edited by: MetalMarvels ]

Spybot has worked well for me, also. BUT!! Make sure that you READ the help files and tutorial. It will make your life much easier if you do read them.... I was truly astounded at the amount of spyware that was resident without my knowledge!!

sorry - it was a hijack....... [ 10-23-2003, 08:27 AM: Message edited by: MetalMarvels ]

Ripper3785 quote: Uh, where does it say two forms of ID? Colorado DMV FAQ Unfortunately Colorado Identification requirements, 42-2-107 and 42-2-302 CRS were revised as of 07/03 to require two forms of identification - according to the the DMV supervisor that I spoke with, this was a result of 9/11. I am looking at a copy right now - it doesnt help my blood pressure...... The opening quotation is: "42-2-107 and 42-2-302 CRS requires applicants for a Colorado driver license or identification card to submit proof of age, name and lawful presence, as the department may require. Applicants must present two different documents." It goes on with a revised list of documents. From List A and B, only a fraction of teenagers would have two forms of required identification. Presumeably this was to insure that illegal aliens could NOT obtain any form of Colorado ID, but they made it very difficult for legimate applicants. Colorado went too far in the other direction in my opinion. [ 10-23-2003, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: MetalMarvels ]

A custom aircraft propellor generating machine and some sort of aluminum valve bodies.

quote: One thing for the Driver's license... Doesn't that make our roads safer because this people now can have insurance?? ... as they go to farm the lands, wash our dishes and clean our toilets?? Please let me know if you have done that, I have only known one american dishwasher in my life..... F. Javier Now you know two American dishwashers.... and I have also picked potatoes in Maine for $0.35 a barrel, side-by-side with the itinerate workers down from Canada. So what... it was a job.... As proven every day, having a drivers license does not mean that the individual will go get insurance. There are an unbelievable number of uninsured, but legally licensed, drivers running around. What pisses me off is the added beaurocracy in getting a first-time drivers permit for my US-born daughter of US citizens. Based on the list of acceptable identification documents that was provided by the DMV for obtaining a permit, she never will get a permit... Most of the required documentation choices were for FOREIGNERS living in the State!!!!! Among the choices are a notarized marriage certificate (at 17 - I would strongly oppose marriage this early), certified court adoption papers (why would I adopt my own children??), certified divorce papers (at 17 - I HOPE not!!), Drivers license from another state (bear in mind this is for a 1st time drivers permit), State Identification card (same list of documents to get one!!!), full-sized birth certificate with state seal (no wallet sizes or copies please), current Visa for being in th US (yeah - right), current Foreign passport, Naturalization papers (she was freaking BORN here),and so forth. Very few teenagers could come up with two forms of "acceptable" ID unless they were foreign exchange students....... WTF, over.... By the way, SS card is NOT a form of ID.

I really like the 256 MB version of the FX5600 - runs everything I want (MC, SolidWorks, Mechanical Desktop, and games). It also doesn't sound like a jet engine at takeoff RPMs. JM2C

Beginning simple is an absolute necessity for continued implementation. If you start with too much all at once you will be fighting an uphill battle all the way. Introducing simple steps is the way to success. As CAMmando put it quote: Simple 1st piece and final inspection process Simple contract review process Simple reject tag based nonconformance system Simple corrective action system Good documentation practices regarding set up sheets / tool lists and job notes. As a Six-Sigma Greenbelt, I can assure you that an all-out thrust is NOT what you want to do..... You have to change the work philosophy along the way to make it work.

The most important part is SHARP tools - carbide is usually too "blunt" and tends to "push" the plastic rather than cut it cleanly. HSS does nicely with most plastics but can wear quickly. Depending on the plastic, I usually climb cut the roughing and conventional mill the finish.

Definitely +1 on the break-in and warmup cycles on the Haas/Fadal types. The 3 Fadals that I have access to will grow as much as .0014 in the 1st 30-40 minutes at a warmup speed of 4500 rpm. They are pretty stable (for this class of mill - no flames please) after that - staying within +/- .0003. However, you can chase your backside if you don't warm them up first..... They will also smoke themselves if you run them full-out.

+1 to Scott and Harryman. CALL ANYWAYS they may be willing to overlook a lot of things if you can perform..... Is the company where you work large enough to have an HR department??

Married 26 years now, dated for about 2 years and was engaged for 1 year. I wanted to get married two days earlier so that our anniversary would be 7/7/77, but we got married on 7/9/77 - I always remember it as 2 days after 7/7/77. We have 3 kids - 2 in college, one in High School. Been wonderful and I don't know how I would have done it any other way!

Thanks, Murlin. I suspect that it is indeed the holding arrangement. When I can afford it, I will try to get a short CAT40 to head adapter to get the setup as rigid as possible. I need to have one anyways, since I have a couple of other heads that fit the same thread. Perhaps after I get paid (if I get paid) for the last three jobs. The time between buying material and getting paid for the job is a killer..... The material is 6061-T651. I can get a smooth, beautiful cut if I take at least .005 DOC - except thru the middle 3/4-inch where it sings no matter what I do... Unfortunately the hole is tapered afterwards (about 0.0015 top to bottom). Any sort of skim cut or spring cut, even with a dead-sharp tool results in singing. I am going to circle interpolate the bore with the long 4-flute tool that should arrive this afternoon so that I can get this part out the door. I will come back to this problem when I have some spare time because I am certain that it will come up again. [ 10-07-2003, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: MetalMarvels ]

Thanks, Harry. I will check that this evening. It is about time for me to leave my day job, put on my shop owners' cape, and start my afternoon/evening job.

In using both methods, I have to agree with James. You have much more control in the pocket/contour method. I have had some amount of difficulty hitting my target size with circle mill, but it is really great for those "wide-open" tolerance "fast" holes that are really too big for a drill (or you need a flat-bottomed hole). Also the ramp down on finish gives a superb finish. JM2C [ 10-06-2003, 06:17 PM: Message edited by: MetalMarvels ]

I recently upgraded to the FX5600 from a GeForce 2, so far it has been great with no problems.

Sort of the same subject... How does everyone define there boring head setup in Mastercam. The Ramsey type was easy since it is "solid". For example there can't be any central features sticking up inside the hole, since the tool can't clear them (rather like the heads in the upper left of Keith's photo). However, defining an inserted boring bar type of head (like the Criterion) seems to require a "custom" drawing to define it.

Millman, the part is 2.6 inches deep, 2.6 wide and 3.55 long and is buried in hardjaws with only about .5 inches above the jaws. When cut to full width, the 2.000 dia hole, 2.000 deep leaves 0.3 walls on the sides (and about 1 inch on one end). I have a Circle boring bar in and even (sigh) cut it down for minimum overhang. Tried the rubberband thing with enough that it would just clear the walls. Tried a flat-top and a chip-breaker insert and even tried the regrind trick. I got it to better than a 125 um finish, but not good enough. Interestingly, the middle section (about a 3/4 inch band) was worse than above or below..... Gcode, the only thing I couldn't change was that the head is on a 3/4 dia straight shank in an e-mill holder. I don't (yet) own a direct screw-on Cat40 holder for the head. Just wish the central spigot wasn't in there - could have used the "solid" Ramsey boring head. I broke down and ordered a long 4-flute finishing mill to sneak up on it using circle interpolation (at least it is only a 2.000 dia +0 / -.002), that much I can do by interpolation. I just didn't have a 3/8 dia emill that long..... At least I can get it within +/- .0005 with an adequate finish (I hope....).

If you hear a VERY loud BANG!!! And a boring head setup magically appears stuck through the machine shop wall.... Not to worry, just me throwing this POS Criterion boring head out of the shop... tried shorter bars, tried longer bars, tried faster and slower speed and feeds, tried monkey snot on the bar to dampen it, tried carbide, tried two styles of insert, tried different DOC.... Freaking thing is BORN to sing!!!! IF I HAD WANTED TO HEAR A SONG I WOULD HAVE TURNED ON THE RADIO!!!!! One day I hope to own a REAL boring head setup... but not today....

quote: Can you translate for the unilingual please? Sure thing. Mens Sana In Corpore Sano A Sound Mind in a Sound Body Labor Omnia Vincit Work Conquers All

The Mitee-Grip works great! Well, except for the one 1/4-inch thick brass part that was a multiple contoured shape. I ended up annealing the brass because it twisted like a pretzel, popping it off the Mitee-Grip - amazing amount of force pent up in a piece of un-annealed metal!! Stuff works great though on small thin stock. I have even cut 0.002 shim stock in an intricate shape using this stuff. The part just floats off in hot water.

Thanks guys! Nice tool set there Keith! When (if ever) I can afford it - it looks like I should check out the Kaiser boring heads - sounds like it is a favorite out there.

OHHHH I want one of those May^Day!!! That would be great for clearing out the slower than snail drivers that hang in the fast lane.

I have a couple of nice Ramsey heads and a POS Criterion head. The Ramsey's allow me to bore open holes (i.e. nothing in the middle - like a spigot or other center feature that you have to reach past and bore around). Unfortunately, they have a limitation in travel (what head doesn't). On this job, I will have to use the Criterion since there is a "tube" feature in the center of the bore... Harryman.. that just might work - I do have a mag-base tool setter (the LED type, 2.000 inches tall) that I could set on a vertical surface that I have "measured" for the X (or Y) position. At least that would get me very close. I never have figured out how to use calipers to accurately measure a single-point boring head - I can see how it would be doable with a double-insert head.