O/T

[petro7]

Not m/c related although I used mastercam to make the burrs. We are looking for a tumbler to deburrs 316ss bearing cages we machine. the burrs are fairly large and take about 1 hr per part to deburr, I am not familar with tumbler so I don't know if this is feasable. there is no way to deburrs with a machining process. right now we have time to deburr between parts , but it is very teadious. any info will be appreciated.

[Hardmill]

A picture of it would help alot. If the burr is the large

its going to take a good amount of time in a tumbler.

That could greatly effect the look and/or features of your

machined part.

 

 

PEACE

[Randy Morton @ Clem Industrial]

There's always a way to deburr the part in the machine, just thinking outside the box may be what is needed.

 

I'm with HM on the tumbler though...depending on the precision/cosmetic appeal of it, that may not be the best way to go.

 

Sorry, not much help otherwise, I don't do much with Deburring these days....

[petro7]

I do have a picture how do I attach it to my message? The picture I have is already deburred.but by Tuesday I will have some undeburred.

[Randy Morton @ Clem Industrial]

Do you have a photobucket account? (www.photbucket.com) It's free, you upload your picture there, take the IMG tag, copy it and paste it in your post here. Simple simple.

[Hardmill]

If you dont have an photobucket account email it to me

and ill post it for you .

 

 

PEACE

[chris m]

The situation that you describe is not typically a good tumbling or vibratory finishing scenario. Tumbling will typically beat the sh!t out of your parts unless you use a lot of media, in which case it typically doesn't deburr well at all. Vibratory finishing is a lot less violent and the aqueos solutions used pose no rust issue with 316, BUT, vibratory finishing will typically just beat the burrs into the parts and leave a rounded mess.

 

I await your photo to be more helpful

[Hardmill]

Here you go shawn :

 

 

 

PEACE

[petro7]

I sent the picture to hardmill he said he can post it.

[Flycut]

And the big burs are found where?

Around the edge of the "counter bore"?

If so I would try creating .0025 fillets around the edges and generating a contour.

How big is this thing?

[petro7]

the piece is 5 inch o.d 4.inch id 1.7 high. we hold it with a top plate, so we can not mill around the edges. by the time all the counterbore are done the upright legs have moved, so when you mill round them you touch in some places and miss the others.

[Hardmill]

Hey shawn when you get this in the machine send us another pic.

Theres always a way around a problem. 'specially taking

an hour to debur.

 

 

PEACE

[petro7]

Will do Thanks

[chris m]

How big of a burr are we talking? Could you use an abrasive brush or flexible hone in the machine?

 

How many pieces? Depending on application I have a nice 2001 Dynetics HL-30 Extrude-Hone type machine I am looking to sell...

[petro7]

the burrs are quite large we use a carbide burr to remove the large burrs, then a stone to smooth out the part. there are 100 pcs. I have no idea what a hl -30 extrude hone is. this job is on going every couple months.

[?Mark]

Shawn, this should not be that big of a deal for this part to come out almost burr free. We cut this sort of material on a daily basis. My guess is that you need to reconsider the process, work holding and tooling to eliminate or at least significantly reduce those burrs. It could be as easy as adjusting speeds and feeds...

Tumbling will beat up those parts pretty badly, so worst case scenario imho is sand blasting...

hth

[chris m]

Abrasive Flow Deburring [typically called the Extrude Hone process by many people] uses a paste-like slurry of silicon carbide which is forced through passages under hydraulic pressure to remove burrs or flash from parts; usually from internal contours but we have used it on the inside and outside of parts. It doesn't sound like you have the quantity to buy a machine [although 100 hours of deburring per lot would kill me] and it also sounds like the burrs are too large for the process, but it is interesting to see what can be done. Can't hurt to ask the question of them.

 

http://www.extrudehone.com/index.php

[petro7]

Thanks for all the info guy's, I can try different machining methods, we have tested alot of different cutting tools, and have found the sandvik drill to work the best. we deburr while the machine is running so no time is really lost.someone has to be there just in case. I guess I was just hoping for a magical way of deburring, because deburring sucks.

[Hardmill]

Heres some more pics that Shawn wanted to share.

 

 

 

 

 

 

PEACE

[Rick Henrickson The Boeing Co.]

I think those burrs are to big to tumble, you would have huge rads where the burrs are light.

maybe chemical deburr.

I would try to get it done on the machine do a profile on the inside and outside to deburr your holes then reach down with a small chamfer mill and just use the very top edge of the chafer tool

[Ocean Lacky™]

man, those are just plain ugly. What about taking a finish cut with a small endmill? A simple 2D contour around all those uprights should take considerably less than an hour.

[petro7]

When we remove the top plate the legs are no longer in a consistant position. so when you mill around you touch in some places and miss in others.

[Ocean Lacky™]

How much do they move? Could you bore undersize and shallow, then take a finish cut with an endmill?

[Kevangel]

I don't know if o.d, i.d. are already turned to size, but if so and can hold that size...seems like a fixture that "puts metal" around id,o.d. would really reduce burrs,as they can't push out or if machined o.d. etc in mill have a fixture with doweled slip ring on i.d. od. that sort of thing. an hour a part deburring, can build a fixture. vibrate off sharp edges as no big burrs

[Kevangel]

if part moves or distorts, put jack screws in fixture where needed .