Lathe Chuck Spindle speed

[Leandro]

For a standard steel 3 brackets chuck aprox 10" diameter (500mm).¿What did you consider as maximum spindle speed?

Of course I know this depends of the part size, weight, form and so on.

I want to know just an opinion for a standrd part.

 

Thanks

[GoetzInd]

1 RPM before the jaws eject In all seriousness, I would deffinately talk to the manufacturer. I know of a shop around here where they spooled up a 24" 3 jaws and a jaw let go and hit a guy. Dead before he hit the ground.

 

Mike

[Goldorak]

this should be marked directly on the chuck > MAX RPM XXXXXX

[Leandro]

The problem is that this chuck is not marked. I get an used machin and i don´t have more information. Of course i know that I will need a security gap. I want to know your opinion. Now I´m working with max SS = 800 RPM and works fine but i don´t know if this to high or to low.

thanks

[Mr. Wizzard]

I would highly recommend contacting the manufacturer.

[chris m]

We run our 10" chuck machines up to 3 grand pretty regularly with standard 2" high top jaws, but we typically weight-relieve the jaws by turning off a lot of the meat outside of the clamp diameter. If the chuck came with the machine, it should be rated for the max spindle rpm of the machine but sometimes they aren't so it is always best to check with the chuck manufacturer to be sure.

 

C

[M_CODE1]

IMO 800 RPM is slow for a 10" Chuck. Should not have anything to worry about at that speed. Our new 18" chuck is rated for 2000 RPM.

Our 10" on our 10" Kitagawa is rated up to 3200 RPM.

 

Get the make and model and look it up. That would be your best bet.

[Leandro]

Sorry, Sorry is not a 10" (254mm) is 20" chuck (actually 500mm).

I was wrong!!!

When M-CODE wrote 3200 RPM i saw that something was not ok.

 

Now I repeat my question:

I get an used machine with a unmarked 20" Chuck.

I can not contact the chuck manufacteur because is not marked. (was market with a plate, but the plate is gone)

I´m now runing at max ss = 800 RPM

 

In your opinion.¿Is this to much o to slow?

 

thanks

[Goldorak]

I would highly recommend contacting the manufacturer.

 

 

x10000000

[Mr. Wizzard]

Mfg's Plate is gone, bummer. PITA, but you may find some other identifying numbers if you take it off and look around on it.

 

If there is absolutely no way to find the manufacturer, the second best thing I can think of is just checking with some current manufacturers. Tell them exactly what you've told us and they might be able to help.

 

It's gonna be hard to get a good guess, cause nobody will want to recommend something that may end up in unsafe operation. Perhaps the lathe manufacturer may be able to look up the serial number of the machine and tell you if the chuck you have was possibly sold with the machine and go from there.

[Newbeeee™]

Definately steel and not cast iron???

I'd be very cautious if it's a new (to you) chuck and you don't know the history.

How many bangs has it taken???....20" is a lot of inertia.

[Leandro]

Definetly steel and not cast.

Actually my question is:

Another 20" Chuck user. ¿What spindle speed did you use?

 

I will take a half or 60% of this speed

 

I´know that this is not the right way.

 

I had a 40" chuck and in this case ia had as maximum speed 750RPM. But I never take more than 600. Even with the maximum weight I am everytime on the safety side.

 

Best regards

[K2csq7]

A lot of it depends on the jaws your using, if your turning a 3" dia. part with dinky little steel jaws held tight 2k should be no problem, but if you have a 19" dia part holding on by 3/8" with 3 big steel pie jaws 800 rpm could easily do some damage. You say it's new to you, does it show signs of abuse, does it look like it just came out of the box? Way to many variables... is this an old engine lathe with no gaurds, or a something with a big steel door between you and the chuck????

 

It's gonna be hard to get a good guess, cause nobody will want to recommend something that may end up in unsafe operation.

I am nervous just talkin about it...

[SKIR68]

think about getting a new one, is it wirth the cost of getting hurt?

 

 

[BBprecise]

All of our 10" chucks are Kitagawa and we run them up to 3500 without problems. Our 12" & 15" are capped at 2500 depending on the size of the jaws, the 18" we stop at 1500, and our big 36" & 40" on our VTL's are capped at 350. Like what has been mentioned before a lot depends on the mass of the jaws and the pressure's needed to securely hold the part. If you need light pressure you need to keep it slow. Most machines have a label on the outside showing how much gripping force is lost at a given rpm. When we change chucks we actually alter the max rpm parameter in the control itself to what we consider safe for the setup for every job. The setup below is our 18" chuck (which is inside the part) with a ring that is 26" in dia, c'bored to fit over the chuck from the back with 3 bolts on the back side. The part is Ti6-4, 20" OD, 34" long and weighs about 400 lbs. Would you want to spin this at the chucks max rpm of 2000 as stated by manufacturer.

[GoetzInd]

Would you want to spin this at the chucks max rpm of 2000 as stated by manufacturer

 

Set up looks solid. I say go nuts.

 

Mike

[chris m]

<Hijack on>

 

bbprecise; are you a Short Course racer?

 

<hijack off>

[BBprecise]

Sure am. Raced Slash's until October when I bought a FT SC10. Still race the Slash once in a while to keep all the Blitz's, XXX-T's and others in check when they get cocky that the Slash's just can't keep up. Once the outdoor track opens up at the HS I'll be racing a 2wd Slash and my brushless 1/8th scale buggy. My local HS.

 

What do you run?

[chris m]

I run SC Open (SC10 with a Tekin RS and Ballistic 10.5 currently) at the local dirt emporium; haven't been down for a month or more due to school and work requirements, but I took down a handful of club racing A Mains last summer when the real top guns took the night off. We run year round indoors on Thursday nights and outdoors / indoors on Sunday afternoons depending on the season. You should come down and check it out:RC Excitement

[Trevor Bailey]

more hijack......

 

chris and BB, check out http://drivenproductions.net/content/home.php

 

he makes after market rc car parts for every model on the market to date, along with helicopter stuff. his machine shop actually the back side of my office and is an instructor for me. really cool stuff he makes.

[Leigh @ Kodiak]

think about getting a new one, is it wirth the cost of getting hurt?

 

 

 

With no manufacturer markings on the chuck, this would be the route I would go.

 

 

 

[BBprecise]

If you absolutely can't find the manufacturer I'm with Leigh and just buy a new chuck. It's not pretty when chucks come apart. Had one of our 40" chucks come apart on a VTL about 3 yrs ago and the 800 lb part came out the side of the machine and this was an SMW Autoblock chuck.