Squaring up block

[mtnmike]

I know this is a very basic question, But it is to end a debate with a co-worker. If somebody would, could ya explain the basic procedure to square up a block in a mill. Just a basic square block of aluminum lets say, and in a vise. THe correct proper way. Do appreciate it. Thanks!!

[BenK]

This link should help

[jeff]

Yep that link shows the best way. Some may have other ways, but this is a tried and true method.

Cut a face, put that face against the back jaw, use a dowel pin against the moveable jaw to make sure the part gets clamped flat against the back jaw.

Cut.

Flip.

Cut

Flip.

Done.

[Greg Williams]

Yep that is how it is done

[cincy k]

This gets you four sides. How about the two ends? What are some methods?

[Mic6]

This gets you four sides. How about the two ends? What are some methods?

 

Hole your now square block in 2 V-blocks in a vise(size permitting), cut end, flip, cut end

[jeff]

OR

You get oversized stock, and run the endmill around the entire part, flip it, and facemill to thickness.

THIS is the quickest way

[Goldorak]

OR

You get oversized stock, and run the endmill around the entire part, flip it, and facemill to thickness.

THIS is the quickest way

i do this all the time

 

 

get 1/4 over thickness , do the entire part , flip ,face , done , beer !

[Guest CNC Apps Guy 1]

OR

You get oversized stock, and run the endmill around the entire part, flip it, and facemill to thickness.

THIS is the quickest way

 

 

Amen to that. Cut, flip, cut, flip, yadda, yadda, yadda... waddya all usin'??? BRIDGEPORTS????? :headscratch:

 

I have not done it that way since I moved over to CNC's. Always seemed like both an extra step AND an unnecessary one.

[cincy k]

I've used the method of getting oversized stock. Works well for smaller pieces. The only trouble I have is when I need to square a part that is 6 x 6 x 6. A six inch long endmill doesn't work out too hot.

[jeff]

I've used the method of getting oversized stock. Works well for smaller pieces. The only trouble I have is when I need to square a part that is 6 x 6 x 6. A six inch long endmill doesn't work out too hot.

 

For parts like that, I would use a 1/2" endmill and make a pass around the square about a 1/2" deep or so, keeping the square oversize... facemill the top, then stand the part up while resting one of the machined edges on a small dowel pin...facemill....rotate,facemill,rotate, repeat.

Unless you have access to a horizontal,(I don't)

[Cannon]

The only trouble I have is when I need to square a part that is 6 x 6 x 6. A six inch long endmill doesn't work out too hot.

Thats when you change to insert cutter.

[MIL-TFP-41]

well....what if you have a part that is 60 X 60 X 60 and 15000 lbs? The basic theory still works, cut & flip...tho I can tell ya, flipping a 15000lb forging is a royal PITA. In these situations we use a really big blanchard grinder and get 2 sides parallel. Then, off to the horizontal boring mill with a "B" axis to hit the other 4 sides.

 

Come to think about it....that actually scales down very well. If you are fortunate enough to be able to make 2 sides parallel....the other 4 come in very easily...no matter the stock size.

[toddm]

when you get to the side, just use a endmill about .500 down. skim both ends. then stand it up on a small dowel or ejector pin on the sidemilled surface. then face cut the ends finished.

there are other ways like use a the skim flip turn rotate method, but that is hard to explain in text,