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mould knurling 4-5 axis help


CristiP
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Hello guys. I have to make this knurling on the mould cavity. Dots must be perpendicular to the surface. The profile of the knurling dots are shape of pyramid 90 degrees each side (  4 sides ). 

First time I used one tool made from a carbide blank with shape of pyramid. 

I used a drill 5 axis operation with surfaces as tool axis control. With spindle speed turned off I have made the dots. It was fine ...the only problem is that the dots are not oriented in the same way.

 So now I think I have to use a T cutter for this, but I do not know what mastercam strategy to use. I have to keep this tool perpendiculary to the surface also : ( but I am new to 5 axis machining.

 

I attached a Mastercam X7 file with the profile of the mould in case someone decide to help me with some example. I have also attached some pictures for better understanding. 

 

Sorry for my english.

 

Please help me. Please help me. Please help me. Please help me. Please help me. 

 

Thanks a lot.. God bless you

 

post-48497-0-81197800-1432505561_thumb.png

post-48497-0-94834700-1432505512_thumb.png

post-48497-0-71478900-1432505532_thumb.png

KNURL.MCX-7

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Yes I have 2 DMG HSC 55   5 axis machine. Today when I will go to work I will ask my reseller also. I just want a little help from here . I have 5 axis machines I have also Multiaxis on my mastercam licence. I just need an idea to start this  .

I can give you all information you want ...about my reseller my licence everything...just help me to do this please. More ideas are better than one.

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Your first method seem like a good one, can you use a M19  to orient the spindle first  to keep them aligned.  Also Indicate your tool to get the orientation you want when you set it, and it should stay the same.  I have to do  something similar when broaching on the machine. I give the machine a M19 then indicate the tool in, then I'm set and ready to go.  

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Your first method seem like a good one, can you use a M19  to orient the spindle first  to keep them aligned.  Also Indicate your tool to get the orientation you want when you set it, and it should stay the same.  I have to do  something similar when broaching on the machine. I give the machine a M19 then indicate the tool in, then I'm set and ready to go.  

I used M19, tool it is always in the same position, but the table not. The table is moving to get the perpendicular position for each dot.... The mold image I attached it is what I need. That mold was made on a conventional machine.

 Tomorrow I will make a picture with result of firs method. Imagine the tool stays in the same position but the table it is moving...so the tool can stay perpendicular to the surface for each dot....like this the shape of the dots it is not the same..If for example you look at the first line of my mold picture...each dot it is align with the next one...each row with the next one and so on. ..With the first method...I will get random orientation of dots...

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The idea is to make this with a T cutter ....with some kind of wheel with pyramid shape teeth ...without spindle rotation. I will orient the spindle with M19 ...I will position the mold in the right position for one row...and the I will make the dots with my special tool ....by pressing on the mold surface and rotates the mold around  tool...like this the wheel it will rotate around shank...I will make some pictures tomorrow.

 

The wheel has 1 degree of freedom ...it can rotate freely around shank ...I have to make this dots by pressing the tool in the mold cavity...and rotate the mold 360 degrees

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    The ideea is to make this with a special tool. The tool is like a T cutter but it has a wheel that rotates around shank. I will position the tool in the mold, I will orient the spindle with M19...the tool will by fixed...I will make each row by pressing the tool in the mold and rotate the mold 360 degrees. Like this the wheel will rotate also..by pressing the whell in the mold and rotate the mold ...it is like a mechanism...
 
Vertical machine:
 
X axis will be 0
Y axis will press into the mold 0.3mm..
Z and A axis for position the mold perpendicular to the T cutter
C axis for rotate the mold ...and make the dots
 
I have to find a mastercam toolpath strategy for this :( Maybe curve 5 axis...I will make a circle around mold where I need firs row of knurling..and I machine that circle with my T cutter perpendicular to the surface in that position.

 

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your thumbnail makes me want to throw up.

 

Can't you just use verisurf

 Thank you. You are funny. But please if you do not know...stay away.... maybe there are people here who can help me more than you.  Your post it doesn't help me.

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Might have to use a point toolpath to do what you are after. Not anywhere in the bag I of trick I got would I even attempt a toolpath in Mastercam like what you are trying to do. I think you are going to face major issues with tool pressure and other things you just are not seeing. I have cut keys and broached on machine tools so think I am foolish, but again will say I think you are approaching this all wrong. I understand I got to get it done I get that, but sometimes got to get it done and can get it done collide in a major way. This is one of those times where got and going to are not seeing eye to eye. I am as about as hard headed as they get and will beat my head into the wall until I knock myself out and short of point toolpath at every place you are fighting a losing battle IMHO.

 

I would figure out a macro and make a loop repeat and be done with it.

 

Might could do a 5 Axis drill if you can figure out how to fit a cylinder in each one of those squares. That would at least mimic the point toolpath and output the Vector and start and end points. I think you need to go straight in not side ways to even have a shot at making it work.

 

Good luck in your fight and let us know how the battle against the part comes out.

 

Oh sorry for my English I don't speak it very well either.

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  • 1 month later...

I would use a very small cutter and surface it.

Be careful using a broaching style approach with the spindle off. We have tried this before and it wrecked the bearings in the spindle. We didn't notice it right away but a month or so later when using the spindle at high rpm we did. On rebuild we found the bearings had been flat spotted from the loading while not spinning, this is totally understandable as that's not what a ball race bearing is designed for.

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