Mike R GCode Camp Lejeune Camp Pendleton 2141 Assault Amphibian Repairman [talk about your job with good civilian cross-over] Semper Fi Tony G Kevin Maynard We gotta stay strong against this California horde [ 11-09-2002, 09:04 AM: Message edited by: chris m ]

I believe that the "LSK" will change to "INPUT" on the screen when the CNC starts receiving data. Make sure that your baud rate and parity are set correctly so that the communication software and the CNC match. You may want to download the Cimco Edit demo [good for 30 days] and try the settings for "Generic ISO" or "Generic Fanuc" or whatever they call it. C

If you have AutoCAD you could also take the drawing back there and scale it in a similar manner if it is more comfortable; then re-import it C

The operators manual for the Fanuc control should have the info you are looking for I don't know if this is the same but on the Fanuc 18 you press the EDIT hardkey, then the OPRT softkey, then extend to get the READ softkey, then the EXEC softkey. If the sequence is correct you should get a flashing "LSK" in the bottom right corner of the screen

Am I missing something or is this forum for Mastercam users Is this not a reseller topic?

The Greco Box rocks! We have one on an old Takamatsu and it works great for what we're doing. Sorry I can't help with the post stuff or manuals C

Scott I'm glad you elected not to do it; I know that it can be interesting [and a matter of personal pride] to do unusual work but you would really be setting yourself up for serious aggravation making those holders. Tell your purchasing department to go to work beating up those vendors! quote: I watched a Mazak Integrex turn out Cat 40 Holders complete Funny; I've been watching an Integrex do NOTHING for quite awhile now.... [ 11-06-2002, 07:29 AM: Message edited by: chris m ]

Scott I have to say that I would agree with the gentlemen encouraging you to buy the chucks. By the time you buy the pull studs, the collet caps, and the stock for the chuck bodies then machine the bodies I can't imagine you would come out very far ahead. I know that typical pull studs [retention knobs, whatever you call them in your place] run about $12 and the collet caps are as much as $35. Add to that the fact that the chucks you buy will last far longer, run far better, and probably produce far better results. Just the programming, setup, and gaging invovled would be more of a hassle than its worth. If it was easier and more practical to make these than buy them; wouldn't everybody be doing it? I recently purchased several nice Lyndex chucks for $135 including the pull stud. If you tell a distributor that you are looking at purchasing a couple of HUNDRED chucks; I'm sure you'd be into serious discounts. Don't waste your time C [ 11-05-2002, 12:03 PM: Message edited by: chris m ]

Jeez Listening to you guys is making me think that we are perhaps under-utilizing our ProtoTRAK machines. Does anyone out there have a TRAK lathe that they are programming with Mastercam? Maybe I can go to school here... C

quote: when you have a program with surfaces, using DNC sucks for large qty parts. And cam only does 2 1/2 axis, also sucks quote: Positive attude leads to positive results How's that positive attitude working out for you? Just kidding But, if I may ask; why are you guys doing "large quantities" on a DPM? Doesn't exactly seem like the machine for them. I wish I could help you out but we've always programmed our ProtoTRAK machines on the floor. I have looked into writing ProtoTRAK-friendly G code but it seems like a big pain in the hind end as the machine's capabilites are fairly limited compared to a true CNC. Sorry C [ 11-04-2002, 03:08 PM: Message edited by: chris m ]

Alright, I've now changed my mind; it won't be "Hannibal", it'll be Andrew "The Human Calculator" McRae In all seriousness [and kneeling before you scientific powers] I have found that for the few times I've calculated power consumption using the Sandvik guidelines they have been very conservative. This may be only due to insert geometry used or other factors but I still go for the "listen to the machine" method when fine tuning milling to get max output. By the way, a 10 horse short-duration chip is good for a 7 horse machine; it wipes the dust off of the red portion of the load meter.

I must say that that is pretty cool

What we have done here is to outsource the toolcrib operation to our tool suppliers; one is responsible for all inserts, another for all round tools. We are not a large operation and our vendors were still more than ready to take this operation over. The jury is still out on how well it works [we just started a couple of months ago] but the physical organization is much better already. quote: Currently our crib is anarchy I know where you are coming from there; ours had no organization whatsoever. I think that our toolcrib guy thought it was some sort of job security to have the place a total cluster [didn't work out for him too well, though]. We didn't go for the "Robo-Crib" or a vending machine or anything, just had the vendors reorganize everything in the cabinets we already owned and label everything. Then we set up min-maxes for everything and now the guy comes in once a week and looks for anything we need, enters it into their system and *poof* it comes in. Seems to work OK so far; just to consider other options... C [ 10-29-2002, 12:36 PM: Message edited by: chris m ]

Andrew and others From what I understand here; this is the situation: 1) Material: 1018 [sh*t steel] 2) DOC: .125 WOC: Varied from .200 to approx .750 due to variations in part profile 3) Machine style, and Spindle: unknown but I'm guessing 40 Taper VMC 4) Machine Horsepower, Max Feedrates: unknown but probably not a huge factor in this equation My opinion: John, I think you may need to try to even out the radial DOC to get good consistent tool life in this application. Feed that is appropriate for a 20% radial DOC is too heavy for .70% DOC and, inversely, feed for the heavy cut is too light to really make chips fly on the light sections. Would it be possible to re-program to get a little more consistency? Assuming that the stock isn't flame-cut or anything I think I would start out with a 1" 3 flute endmill assuming you're using 11mm inserts with Sandvik 4040 inserts at around .125 axial DOC and no more than .300 radial DOC with about 800 SFM and .004 IPT which yields 3056 RPM and 36.7 IPM. I would think that the feed could go up from there without much trouble; anybody else? [ 10-29-2002, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: chris m ]

Tell me more about this peck tapping as I am now intrigued I can see where this would definintely help me in some applications Mike, thanks for the pass on the wiseass response; this is shaping up to be a lousy week C

quote: you can triple the feedrate exiting a hole OK; now I'm really confused How, exactly, can you triple the feed on retract with a tap? Can I assume that the speed is also tripled?

quote: how is a 1" 3 flute, better than a 2" 3 flute? RPM, my good man. As Hugh stated [i think] in his posts: 1) 1" 3 flute 400 SFM .006 IPT = 1528 RPM and 27.5 IPM 2) 2" 3 flute 400 SFM .006 IPT = 764 RPM and 13.8 IPM 1" good 2" bad To clear up something; are you talking about FACEmills or SHELLmills? They are different animals and this may be causing confusion. quote: I read here once that you want to use the largest dia. cutter possible. Am i missing some general rule of selecting these cutting tools. Not really but a big cutter with the same amount of flutes as a smaller cutter will not help unless: 1) there is not enough clearance in the smaller cutter to evacuate your chips 2) you are milling a surface that the larger cutter allows you to take in one pass [MUCH better cosmetics] where the smaller cutter will not. Any time you go for a bigger inserted cutter without the above issues involved, always go for more teeth! I'm with Andrew; I'd bring in the local rep from Iscar, KM, Sandvik, or whoever you like and have him work the problem with you. The only reason those guys are employed by the cutting tool companies is to give you good solutions that will keep you coming back. C [ 10-29-2002, 06:55 AM: Message edited by: chris m ]

Who'd know the difference between Mountain Dew and urine?

quote: Let me know your address so I can attend the Auction when you go out of Business WOW! Andrew; I think we need to change your handle to "Hannibal" as you are always looking to devour the rest of us. I gotta say John; that chopping the feed to save $20 on inserts is probably not the way to go. C

John I am confused First you make a query about "regular" endmills; do you mean "regular" solid carbide endmills or inserted endmills? Then you are saying that you can get a facemill-style inserted cutter that holds more inserts than a endmill-style cutter of the same size. And you are [correctly] stating that more teeth at the same RPM would yield more feed. That part I understand. But... then you make a statement about 1" cutters; are you looking for a 1" facemill? I've never seen one that small; do they make them? If so I would think that the inserts must be very small. More info please C [ 10-28-2002, 12:18 PM: Message edited by: chris m ]

No Problemo I agree that this style of holder is very nice but EXTREMELY expensive. Very good for long runs though as changing taps is [pardon the pun] a snap. If you are just getting into this type of thing; I would suggest starting out with the ER tap collets and move up if your application dictates

Sir Are you referring to the "snap-in" style quick-change holders?

Yes that is correct; just be prepared for sticker shock as the collets are quite $$

quote: If you must use a float; I use tension only as taps should be underfed about 1%. Sorry about the confusion. What I meant to say is that when I must use floating heads [as I do on our older Matsuuras from the early '80's] I use tension only to allow the pitch of the tap to pull the holder a little going in the hole using a 97-99% feed depending on pitch of the tap and depth of thread. Be careful with these holders as a deep hole with a large-pitch tap can run the holder out of travel. Standard ER20 collet chucks from Lyndex, ETM, Techniks, etc will all accept ER20 tap collets such as the Lyndex units described earlier. Example: Lyndex CAT40 ER20 collet chuck: C4017-0020 Lyndex ER20 Tap collet for .194 shank: ET20-.194 [ 10-25-2002, 01:00 PM: Message edited by: chris m ]

Not to start another war about Fadals, but this comment is beautiful: quote: Even with a Fadal I LOVE it