Will you also be able to keep the operations manager overthere. Thanks Joe

Hi Jim Gamble from CAMTECH would be your Mastercam dealer. He is in Port Orange Fl. You could not be in better hands than with him, his knowledge of the product is amazing and he is great to deal with. Give him a call at 386 788 2624 Joe

I recently had the same problem out of the blue and recked an expensive part. The problem I had was somehow the arc was drawn .0001 longer than a quadrant so it started cutting a circle. I fixed this by changing arcoutput = 2 = 180deg my control had no problem with this at all, but I think someday I may have the same problem if the arc goes past the 180. I wonder if I cchange the vtol from .0001 to .001 if that will cover this problem a little better. Thanks Joe

Just used a 3 flute from MSC, nothing special but it worked. It is the only 10x1 they have in the book. Thanks Joe

Julian where in Florida are you. Joe Ft Laud.

I use the preview but it would be nice if I could look at about 20 thumbnails at once with the window at full screen. That would be very helpful in dialing in on the file that you are looking for. Thanks Joe

It would be great when you were looking up your files if you could have a full page of thumbnails to look at, say 15 or 20 with the window at full screen. I sometimes end up with multiple files of the same part and wind up having to open and close them to take a look at them. If I were able to look at more of them that would help me choose the right file a little easier. Thanks Joe

If the part is not to big you can try submerging the majority of the part in water, leaving the water level about an inch below the welding area. In order to weld this you are going to need as big a torch and tungsten elecrode as you can find, at least a 1/8 preferrably 3/16 with plenty of amperage. The reason you want the big tungsten is because you are trying to overcome the abnormal heatsink that you made and you will experience tungsten spitting in the weld if you do not use a large size tungsten. If you can lay a nice weld down you will have minimum distortion. I also use a 75% helium 25% argon mix when doing this. That will create a much hotter arc. I have been heliarc welding for 30 years and have save alot of parts this way. Thanks Joe

What does it cost to update to a usb hasp. Anyone know for sure what their policy is. Thanks Joe

I would make anyone that could have come in contact with it take a lie detecter test. Anyone that refuses to take it , give them the boot. I like to know who is stealing from me so I would rather pay for the testing than going to sleep every night pissed off. If no one gets caught it will end up being bad for moral believe me. Joe

Hi Bucket I am still using the H offsets I am not changing anything there. Just the Z offset for the top of my part, I don't see why I need to put that in 6 places when I can just put it in 1 thats all. Thanks Joe

Bucket you understand what I'm talking about. I ment to say that it will add or subtract to the numbers in your offsets. I change the Z all the time in the first or commen offset as you call it. This is why I want to change the rest of the Z offsets to zero so I just need to change the offset in one location. I guess it is obvious that this will work. Millman as far as other people screwing things up I'm a one man band so that's not a problem. Thanks's for you replys Joe

Hi I'm using a Fanuc 6MB control. On the offset page it is the first group of offsets ,this automatically overrides the other offset G54- 59. I am not calling up a g53 anywhere in the program, And again I will only be using this for the Z hight offset. Thanks Joe

Hi I use G54 -G59 all the time and was wondering if there is any reason why when I input my Z hights for them at the control, why I shouldn't just set and leave them at 0.000 and put the Z hight in the G53. this would save alot of input at the control with less chance of error maybe forgetting a minus sign or something. Thanks Joe

I have used these often and love them. If you put them around the perimeter of say a 1" thick plate you can machine the whole top surface with no problem. When you tighten them up the face of the clamp moves at a 45 degree angle putting pressure on the part inward and down at the same time. Give them a try. Joe

I think that you have to convert it to a nurbs surface first, then modify and use Cpts(Control points) to move it around. Hope this is what you are looking for. Thanks Joe

TheePres Where did you get these guys holding up that part. They look like clones. Joe

One more post

No I have not . but i will and let you know how it works out.Thanks a bunch. Joe

It's a Ge Force4 Ti 4200 AGP8x 128Meg. THis is not a Mastercam issue I just set up a new system with a used monitor last night and this is how far I have gotten. Thnaks Joe

Yes I have, they do not support it, The best I can do is try a Win 98 driver. I will try that tonight. This is for my home computer. Thanks Joe

Hi I just got a nice deal on a 21" Hewlet Packard HP 1100 Model # D2846A and I cannot seem to find a driver that will work with Windows XP. The screen and text is all shadowed, you can see about 4 cursors. I believe the driver is the problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Joe

Hi I would like the option when you use Contour lead in/out to be able to check or uncheck the entry and exit on lines and arcs on and off separately. It seems that I am allways filling in boxes with zeros if i want to use one without the other. I am using V8.1 and do not know if this has been changed in V9. Thanks Joe

Hi Bryan Looking foward to trying your WCS. Thanks for generosity sharing your work with us. JS

I have removed broken taps and bolts for years. My trick is to get the Heliarc out and build up weld at the end of the tap and just keep building up like an ant hill about .75 out of the hole, let cool then reheat the aluminum and grab onto the buildup with a pair of vice grips to turn it out. A lot of times on a brittle tap it will take a few times and will break off but it kicks but on bolts. Always use stainless rod it is very ductal. Joe