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O/T: What material; if any


RStuart
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Polycarbonate/Lexan is what you want to use. We have a complete mold frame made out of that stuff. Looks awesome. Definitely will need some polishing afterwards. I wish I could post a picture, but the frame is @ the Cleveland mold show right now.

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Novus scratch remover with a cotton wheel. If it is a bad haze work it out stages. Don't get it hot while buffing and don't clean it with alcohol. Your best bet is to pull a clear finish of the machine. Radius the corners of your tools and run coolant and you have to get the chips away from the part. If a chip catches it will just haze over.

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Wally,

 

Maybe you were thinking of the transparent aluminum Scotty had made (in Star trek 4) that he used to built Gracies storage tank on the Klingon vessel. If so there must be someone in the Sad Diego area that knows where to get it. biggrin.gif

 

Phil

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Yeah just don't breate the fumes becuase they can cause cancer. eek.gifeek.gif I think it is better to do that on poloycarbonate but would have to ask Javier about that he is my expert on that kind of stuff. It blew my mind when he did this and really suprised how good it did. We have found that sanding to 1500 grit then polishing by hand does the trick to make it clear but would suck on a big part. My uncle told me that he use to take a buffer for a car and do the windsheilds for the SR-22 that way.

 

Great tips and adivce, great place and group of guys.

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Here is a few tips:

 

1). Don't get hot, especially when drilling. Use a low SFM and high IPT.

 

2). Use nice sharp new tools.

 

3). Use care to avoid chipping. You may have to machine for the outside in on edges sometimes.

 

4). As with all plastics, Use a large radius on the tool if roughing large amounts of material. I usually don't do this because it is not always convenient but it is the best way.

 

These are my opinions only.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

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