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Grinding flats on endmills


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We mainly use carbide endmills .250 diameter up to 1.00 diameter. We hold them in 40 and 50 taper Parlec or similar brand solid tool holders with set screws. When we machine aluminum we don't grind a flat on the endmill. We run our machines up to 12000 RPM. In two years I have never had an endmill spin, push up, or pull out while machining aluminum. However, today the great debate started over grinding a flat. I was just wondering what everyone elses opinion is on this topic. I should also mention that we always use flats for roughing endmills, or any endmill that is machininmg steel or hard material.

 

I would appreciate everyones opinion.

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BernieT,

 

I grew up in Ventura CA, but moved to Pennsylvania three years ago. How long have you been there?

 

Also why do you prefer collets and what type of collets do you prefer?

 

We buy a lot of carbide endmills for steel that come with a flat already on them from the manufacturer. These are mainly four flute variable helix endmills such as Niagra Stabilizers. I beleive Hanita Varimills also come with a flat.

 

For aluminum we use three flute Vipers by Destiny Tool or three flute Acuccpro high performance endmills and they don't come with a flat. The company I work for now is the first place I have worked for that does not use flats for cutting aluminum but it seems to work and saves time.

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Iscar holders and collets. If we are doing work where there is alot of cutting pressure we use exact size collets. We were taught to clean them out every time and use alcohol to clean them before putting them together. We use ER 16 and 32. For real heavy cutting we use Iscar low boy holders.( I'm not sure what ther are called) The whole collet is inside of the holder. Use a 1 7/16 box end wrench and get it as tight as we can. We have snapped one off but never has one pulled out of the holder.

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quote:

I grew up in Ventura CA, but moved to Pennsylvania three years ago. How long have you been there?

Over 20 years - great place to live. 3 of our 5 offspring live here also. Also spent about 10 years in Ojai/Oakview

 

 

The collet advise came from end mill reps, I always tried to use collets, but I've done it both ways with no adverse effects.

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Using collets for milling is an accident waiting to happen. Use a precission milling chuck or a shrink fit holder. Weldon holders work good, but IMO not @ 12,000 RPM. If you're using hydraulic holders do not stick cutters with flats into them. Use the right tool for the application and you'll sleep better @ night.

 

quote:

Use a 1 7/16 box end wrench and get it as tight as we can.

eek.gif

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I agree with RobK, milling chucks are really the best way to setup end mills.

 

Side lockers if that is what you HAVE to use and yeah, I'll grind a flat along the shank.

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Using an ER32 collet for anything larger than .375 is really rolling the dice. The steep taper just doesn't have the holding power of other methods. This all depends on how aggressive you get though.

 

I've found endmill holders to actually be the BETTER than milling chucks or shrink fit, when using larger endmills on a 40 taper machine. Why? Because you can get .625, .750, and 1.0 endmill holders with a .750 gage length. This short gage length makes a HUGE difference in rigidity, when you consider the contact circle of a CAT40 holder is only 1.75 at it's largest point. (Unless you have Big Plus).

 

The shortest TG100 holders I've seen are about 3 inch gage length. The shortest milling chucks and shrink fit holders I've seen are closer to 3.5-4.0.

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We always grind flats for setscrews when using Endmill holders, sometimes with a grinder and sometimes by hand. It’s too much risk to simply rely on the setscrew since this is purely frictional force. You really run the risk of a minor movement in length and not catching it until you have a bucket of scrap.

 

We use both ER & endmill holders and we really don’t find any difference in run out which effects tool life. Last year we tried some milling chucks for a steel project that we had good data. The tools in the milling chuck did not last any longer than those in ER and endmill holders. I was disappointed since in theory it makes total sense. However, at $500 a crack for milling chucks, I was not too disappointed.

 

In the future I would like to try shrink fit for common tools.

 

Does anyone have good success with hydraulic holders, and if so, what brand?

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quote:

Using an ER32 collet for anything larger than .375 is really rolling the dice. The steep taper just doesn't have the holding power of other methods. This all depends on how aggressive you get though.

ESP. in aluminum with high helix cutters. If you're not pulling .500 endmills out of an er-32 holder, then your not cutting fast enough. biggrin.gif

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That's called a whistle notch and it's most commonly used for locating pins. It works better when there is a shoulder that you are pulling against since the angle cams the shoulder against the mating surface. For whistle notches, the angle is most common 7 degress. (20 years of machine design.....)

 

-Dave

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quote:

Heat shrink, mill chuck, side lock, er 32 as a last resort.

+1 Motor City Minion

 

We use heat shrinks exclusively for any of our 10,000 and higher RPM machines, but the mill chucks I have used for a 10,000 machine in the past and they worked very well.

 

I wouldn't want to run a side lock over about 8,000 personally. They may not have to be balanced, but with collet type holders at least it isn't extremely off balance.

 

I have seen them in a side lock without a flat and I have seen them pull out in aluminum. It drove me crazy to see a flat ground on a carbide EM for aluminum, but I guess if you can't afford the holders it was better than pulling out and doing some scrappage.

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