Jump to content

Welcome to eMastercam

Register now to participate in the forums, access the download area, buy Mastercam training materials, post processors and more. This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Use your display name or email address to sign in:

Subplates


Recommended Posts

I got the ok to build a subplate for my Okuma Genos M560V. The reasons for wanting one is the spindle nose to table top distance is so large (6"). Also I do muliple setups a day and small runs. Often I machine 1/4' x 20" x 20" plate that have several pockets and very little safe clamping area. Any advice on best material to use? or any other tips and idea on making my subplate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made one for our HAAS VM-6 to mount out chick vises. I used 2" 6061 aluminum plate. I put it on our boring mill and skimmed back side. then flipped it over and drilled and tapped and reamed all my mounting holes. then drilled and c-bored and reamed 6 holes for dowels. once we had it mounted and bolted down, I took a lite skim cut to true the top and that was it. now I can remove and reinstall and every vise is within .001". you wont be sorry for taking the time to do it right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we used Mic6 on our Haas VF3 mainly because it was 24" x 40" x 1.5" plate and that would be a lot of weight added that we didn't need, the nice thing about Al is that its light, it is cast so it does actually dampen vibration, and if you have a tool hit it, it most likely won't damage the tool

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we used Mic6 on our Haas VF3 mainly because it was 24" x 40" x 1.5" plate and that would be a lot of weight added that we didn't need, the nice thing about Al is that its light, it is cast so it does actually dampen vibration, and if you have a tool hit it, it most likely won't damage the tool

 

Good point

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On "lighter duty" machines the Cast Al. plate is great. You can even lighten it up a smidge by pocketing out the back a bit. It's easy to mount threaded inserts and bushings to.

 

My only knock on Al is thermal growth. .0001" per inch per degree (give or take). If you're trying to hold .0001's you better be thermally managing that coolant ESPECIALLY if you're running High Pressure coolant tools with any regularity.

 

JM2CFWIW YMMV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Standardized bolt/location holes are nice for swapping fixtures between machines. We counterbore all the threaded holes and made plugs to keep chips out when not being used. Counterbores are also used for location, which eliminates the problem of having the location holes getting screwed up. Also, gives you more places to bolt to. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a look at a ball lock system such as Jergens. Steel ball lock sub plate stays on the machine, the just change out fixture plates (Aluminum or steel) to go from plate work to vise work, or whatever. Doesn't cost much more than doing your own when you factor in machine down time and man hours to make it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we use 3" thick aluminum plates.

On one of our machines we have 2pcs that make up the table size when put together.

This way we can remove just one of them if need be.

Easy on/off.

That reminds me... time to get 2 new plates since these are pretty much swiss cheese with a bajillion holes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I keep thinking about making one for our machines. My idea is to a .375 hole and a 1/2 -13 threaded hole every inch, Alternating ..and then drill two .375 holes in my kurt vises in te same spot on each vise. Then i can switch from plate work to vise work easily, we do alot of streched formed extrusions. Vises and kness are spread out all over the tables.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Master subplates for every machine I help setup. T-slots are a hassle and time waster. For lasting plates I get A36 burned,  stress-releaved, then double-disk ground. Hard, stable, strong. Create durable reamed and threaded holes no problem.    For lighter duty and arguably more hassle, mic-6 or k-100, then buy all sorts of threaded inserts and receivers  to make them work. I will use AL for the on/off "pallets" because of operator weight savings, but I prefer steel for the main.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

Join us!

eMastercam - your online source for all things Mastercam.

Together, we are the strongest Mastercam community on the web with over 56,000 members, and our online store offers a wide selection of training materials for all applications and skill levels.

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...