+1000 to James also on the 3-4 flute stub tools in 1/8 and 3/16 diameters. If you can't flood coolant or even brush some coolant on it - an air blast (away from the operator at a low CFM) will help somewhat. Sounds like you are using an R8 collet from your description - which probably means an open (unguarded) ops area - like with a knee mill. A mag-base shield in front of the vise would probably help you keep chips off the operators (I think that the shield might actually be an OSHA thing - but don't quote me on that - I will try to locate the reg - we have it aroung here somewhere.....). +1000 on the 6000 RPM or better for that size tool - but if you aren't getting the chips cleared out of the cutting area - it won't matter - the tools will just break off when the flutes pack up with chips (slagged aluminum). On those size tools, I will usually get a short LOC and relief grind the shaft 0.001-0.005 undersize to reach deeper without rubbing the side walls. I find that I get a much better finish than with a tool with a longer LOC - the relief ground tool is stiffer. I rarely use an 1/8 inch diameter tool with more than about 3/16 LOC. +1000 to the PoohBear - I leave 0.002-0.005 of "tab" and just break the part loose from the "foil" that is left. This is usually only good (for me) for fairly small parts. Otherwise, I run the softjaw pocket arrangement. Like the others, I generally reserve my HSS tools for playing in plastic.

If you only have a couple, get a digital photo or scan of the badges and email it to me, along with some basic dimensions for scaling. I will convert it into a Mastercam 9.1 *.mc9 file for you to carry on with. I typically use the raster-to-vector program add-on for Mastercam, but also have other resources. As mentioned by Brent, as close to pure back and white that you can get, gives the best results. However, I have also gotten good results from color pics - it just takes a lot more "fiddling" to get a good result. What you get back will be a 2D collection of lines and arcs that may require modification to make good machining paths (and make the actual end product).

A lot is going to depend on which drive you have for the spindle. Fadal has used many different types over the years, from inverters to Vector Drives. The earlier models were the inverter drives which did not provide any form of motor feedback loop - the controller just assumes that since it said "go" the spindle "went". The Vector drives come in a couple of flavors, Baldor and AMS - both of these do have motor feedback controls necessary for rigid tapping as well as tight motor speed control. Your machine probably has a model of the Baldor or AMS (there are 3 or 4 in total). You could check here for the maintenance manuals that might steer you in the right direction. http://www.fadal.com/ie/manuals/manuals1.asp And in particular - this link: http://www.fadal.com/_content/_documents/m...iveandMotor.pdf

I have had good use out of my Fadal 3016L these past 3 years - but I would like to have gotten it for $35k..... You might be able to come up with a Fadal in that range - but it probably needs a fair amount of work after 5 or more years use....

Mine are off when ever they arre not actively in use. The electricity bill adds up amazingly fast with the machine just sitting there idling.

Last problem I had with my Fadal "umbrella" toolchanger was when it 1/2-position indexed, then tried to move into the spindle to grab the tool. Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang..... CRAP - BIG RED BUTTON.... Turns out that on my servo-type umbrella tool changer, when coolant gets into the photo-optic indexer on the servo moter - it goes pretty much ballistic. The covers really don't keep coolant out of the works when you have been busy blowing it all over the place while cutting. Drying everthing out and then going through the setup procedures for about 2 hours had me back in business. I am glad that Fadal makes their manuals so easy to access online.

Thanks much James! After looking at them closely, I know why my previous attempts to "define" new profiles were miserable failures. Great work - I was successful in untangling one of the form tools I had tried to make.

I re-checked my numbers - for the 1/8 cord, I am using a 0.115 width and a 0.100 depth groove. For the 3/16 cording, I am using a 0.160 width and 0.160 depth groove. In both cases the cording squishes down enough to almost completely fill the groove, but has just enough "push" to lift the plate up a little when the vacuum is released. My earlier trials used a deeper groove and the plates just would not pop back up because the cording is so soft.

Wrong coast, but..... http://www.aerospacemetals.com/contactus.html I haven't found anyone else so far.....

I havent been able to get to the FTP in awhile, but I will give it a try again. Thanks, James and Hardmill!

+1 to STKSHFTR The last time I had a problem with my vacuum fixture - the port through the plate had filled with coolant and plugged the filter. I re-did my lines and I have the exhaust to air port below the vacuum port that goes to the pump - most of the coolant then is blown out through the exhaust port (with a little squirt of compressed air at changeover time). I am also using the very soft, closed-cell sponge rubber cording in 1/8 and 3/16 sizes with very good results - I typically leave it 0.05 to 0.1 above the surface. This material is extremely soft and seals very nicely. I just cut it about 1/4 inch long and butt the ends together. I also found that I needed to "compress" the cording length-wise as I am packing the groove - if you stretch it, the diameter decreases too much and it won't seal properly (it will often pull out of the corners if you did stretch it during the packing process).

And I would also be ever-so-grateful for a peek at them. I haven't been spectacularly successfull in defining some of my "specials". Didn't think you would have an avalanche over this one, eh?

5083 H321 is generally a marine products certified material. However, don't use the Alcan 5083 H321, produced at Alcan Kingston, Ontario mill if you need a marine certified product. If you DO need the marine certified 5083 H321, make darn sure you get the certs up front. There have been problems with intergranular corrosion (exfoliation corrosion and fracturing problems)with the Alcan product that was used in boat hulls. Apparently the -H116 temper is better suited for marine applications. I could not come up with a source for 1-5/16 inch thick plate - the standard sizes appear to be in 1/4 inch steps over the 1 inch thickness with the closest sizes being 1-1/4 inch and 1-1/2 inch. The closest to the 0.093 is a nominal 0.090 thickness (and it will range between 0.089 to 0.093 depending on the mill-run). My local aluminum guy couldn't even quote it for me.

+1000 to Jim quote: IMHO the issue here is credibility and consistency. Exactly! I do not want a person in the office of the presidency who consistently contradicts himself and has proven to be less than honest about his own actions. I will not vote for Mr. Kerry.....My vote will be with Mr. Bush this fall.

I agree that if a person makes a claim, he should be ready and willing to substantiate it! Mr. Kerry has been FAR from willing to substantiate most (if not all) of the claims that he has made. ANY respect I might have had for him is gone due to his reactions to folks who very rightly called him on the details of some of his claims. Why hasn't Kerry had the text of his medal citation copied out for the press? He can get a copy from the archives if he doesn't remember where he put the one he was given - my dad had all of his for the Silver Stars, Bronze Stars, Air Medals, and other citations. Those are just something that most folks don't toss, BUT COPIES CAN BE OBTAINED! Beyond what our political leaders have been up to, have any of you who are veterans of Vietnam had the opportunity to read a current-day history on the Vietnam conflict. Several of the "new" history texts that I have seen are so far off base that the term "revisionist" doesnt even begin to cover it. Like many of you, I had my draft card in my wallet and fully expected my number to come rolling up in '72. Thank God it didn't. My dad had more than enough to say to me about his experiences from '67 and '68 while flying A1's with the 603rd ACS (call signs Hobo, Spad1 and Spad2). I miss you, Dad...

I suspect that eventually it will get into the military/police markets as a "scouting" system. On the other hand, it would probably do really well in the hobby market.

I don't really think that what either of them did or didn't do in a "police action" that ended several decades ago has much to do with their POLITICAL abilities in today's venue. I DO think that is an opportunity to look at their records (civilian as well as military) to help determine their moral character. If they are going to lie about something 40 years ago, what does that say about their reliability today. Mr. Kerry could have received a Medal Of Honor and it would not change my opinion that he is unfit to govern - my opinion on that is based on his POLITICAL scorecard. He has consistantly said one thing while doing the opposite. I simply don't believe anything he has to say, unless I can back it up from an independant source. I don't care if Mr. Bush spent his entire military career filing requisition forms - I do care about his POLITICAL actions over the past several years. He, at least, has been very predictable.

Epson came out with a neat new micro-robot helicopter. The link is here: http://www.epson.co.jp/e/newsroom/news_2004_08_18.htm Don't forget to check out the video!!! The little bird is 12.3 grams in overall weight and has an on-board 6-axis gyro. Wonder who got to do the machining?????

Was going to edit my previous post - oh well, guess I waited too long. The biggest thing to keep in mind when cleaning aluminum (general cleaning - not cleaning in prep for anodizing) is that you want a neutral to slightly acid cleaning solution (pH of 6 to 7). When you get into some of the stronger acids (pH 4 and up) you have a very limited dwell time and MUST follow the acid etch with a couple of rinse cycles. Depending on the process to follow, hydroflouric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, and phosphoric acids are often used - BUT ONLY as a preparation step for an anodizing or other chemical conversion coating process. And - those acids can be quite hazardous....and hydroflouric should NEVER be used by someone who has not been thoroughly trained in its use and has all the proper equipment. It amazes me that you can actually buy hydroflouric acid on the open market - it is so very nasty.....

Actually, the military has found that a mild detergent in warm water is the best all-around cleaner for aluminum. Also, you should not use abrasive cleaners like scouring powders, steel wool, or abrasive polishes - they have a bad habit of embedding in the aluminum surface and can even "kill" the anodizing bath (or so my local plater says). He prefers that I stick to the mild detergent and warm water routine since it doesn't cause him any cleaning or plating issues. LUMINOX- A cleaning solution apparently got good marks - http://metal-cleaning.alconox.com/cleaning_aluminum.htm, but it was a bit pricey for the military needs. The mil spec that applies is MIL-PRF-87937A, TYPE I - but all the products that you find won't do much better than good old mild dish washing detergent and water. If you do have an aqueous cleaning system (tank, spray cabinet, etc.) work with your cleaning system manufacturer to point you to an aqueous cleaner/system that will meet all of your needs. By the way - have you ever seen what happens to an aluminum block if they dunk it in the standard cleaning tank with the cast iron blocks? If they leave it in over the weekend - all you get back are the studs and freeze plugs.......the block is just sludge in the bottom of the tank. Saw that happen at a local engine rebuild shop here in the Springs. The owner of the engine block was a little tweaked.

Simple Green is not a good choice for aircraft grades of aluminum. The military has done plenty of research to show that it can catalyze hydrogen embrittlement and cause corrosion. It will eat an airframe...... Currently it is strictly prohibited for use on military airframes. Makes sense since Simple Green is an alkaline, aqueous-based solution. If not thoroughly rinsed off, the small amounts remaining in crevices will cause corrosion. Aluminum is expecially sensitive to alkaline solutions - mild acids don't bother aluminum much.

And it STILL hurts.......

quote: To me the only thing better than sex [big Grin] Is getting the job after the customer goes with the cheaper quote - the cheaper quote really screws the job - then the customer comes back at you two weeks later begging for a quick delivery. Jack, I hear you on this one - had this happen many times. I usually charge them 20 - 30% more to "break into" the production schedule I already have. More if it is a "hurry up we are way behind now because the other couldn't make the parts" - type of job. The "I hate looking like an idiot" part is when I am the one designing the part to be made - and making the model/prints. It really sucks when you get everything just right (and machinable) just to find out that a completely different part was purchased....

CAD models rule.... As a job shop owner, I always state in my quotes that the CAD model takes precedence and I make sure that the customer understands exactly what that means. I have been burnt one too many times on the delta between a print and an electronic model. I greatly prefer to receive the electronic model that has the "print" embedded as simply another "sheet" in the same file as the model (or linked files - like SolidWorks). I also make it known that I charge less for work received that way - there are too many opportunities for error with a flat file or paper copy and I charge accordingly. How many times have you machined the item exactly to Revision F of the drawing/model and delivered it - only to get a frantic phone call about "what version did you use?" "The one I quoted, the version you delivered a model/print to me, and the version I confirmed to you that I was making - exactly what SHOULD I be making....." In my role as engineer, I simply won't do the design job if I can't model it in 3D with the parts available and sitting in front of me. I really, really, really hate looking like an idiot. Especially when I went from the cut sheet of product A and purchasing went and bought product B because it was a little less expensive - guess what - different hole pattern, different diameter, always something.... We are going through this problem in a major way on a large project.

BTW - UPS won't take it unless you have the proper licenses to ship alcohol. It has to be declared on the customs forms for shipping also. I found this out the hard way when I had 1/2 case of wine shipped to me by mistake from the winery intstead of to my friend - where I meant for it to go. I ended up drinking it - because I couldnt ship it......no liquor license Had to have another 1/2 case shipped from the winery to HIM - got it right the second time...