Thanks for the replies, I'll look into all those Mike

Hey everyone, I'm in the market for a new chuck on our haas tl-1. Has anyone bought a chuck they are happy with on that machine?? I has a Bison that came with it, I don't like it very much. I've only used cheap imports never had a high dollar chuck. I was thinking of spending around $2500. Looked at Kitagawa, Pratt Bernerd it's a 8" with A2-5 mount. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Gotta run, I'll check back tomorrow Thanks, mike

I use Jefferys, we're here in P.C.B fl it's always somthin' thanks guys

thanks, I'll call HAAS Mike

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has experienced movement of x and/or z after the reset button is pushed. It seems like everytime I have to stop the machine because of a error I made in the program or something like that and the tool is close to the part about a 1/4" away, the machine moves into the part and breaks or damages something. I have tried to do a feed hold then spindle stop and finally the reset button. It doesn't seem to make a difference how I stop it, it still does it. This doesn't happen all the time just every now and then whenever I'm next to the part??(within striking distance) It feeds not rapid? I'm about to call HAAS but I wanted to see what you guys have to say It has done this since day 1 Thanks for any input

I agree with Shawn, if it's a B.S. part It otta seal o.k. with a little extra tape. If it has to seal anything other than l.p. water go with the proper drill .703

on a I.D. thread cut bottom to top depending on tool, and being brass you could do it in one pass no problem. depending on thread mill material grade 2000rpm with 20IPM should be a good starting point also there has been many threads the past few weeks on this topic try a search Mke

looks like a 1.031 dia with 11- 1/2 tpi, you may have a hard time finding a insert that size , most likely easier to use a single point tool. what about threading it in a lathe???

If you are going to use a insert style, get the insert with the right TPI Or if you are gonna use a single point cutter, just need 60 degree angle MSC has a decent selection, I have a few Carmex mills and have been happy with them. EMUGE is the way to go

I always use D+Z+, you can also check your turret& chuck settings to make sure they match your machine

It allows you to open a model in mcam while the same time have inventor session open, and allows toolpaths to update to reflect model changes. Mike

Thanks guys, I think the problem is the tap fluid, the foam wasn't quite getting in there enough and the mat was getting s little warm. I would like to open the hole up a little but it is a port tool and I am maxed out on my tools, no room for another tool. as far as the spped its on a mini mill and I think the hp is a little low on slow rpm's?? the last time I tried a 100 rpm it yanked the toolholder out of the spindle. I'll give 300rpm a try. I also got some osg and emuge taps on order. I ended up finishing all the parts. The next run I'll try threadmill and/or the new taps. I only have 20 parts at a time to do. Thanks for the info Mike

Just wondering what kind of tap life with a decent brand tap, can be expected with 316 stainles. I've done very little stainless before. I know it depends on many variables 1/2-20 3flute YMM tap for stainless .375deep 600rpm rigid tap on mill using crc foamy tap spray going to order some U.B fluid and some molydee I am getting about 10 holes with current s/u thanks

That makes more sense, I'll try that Thanks

Hey everyone, I wanted to modify my MPFLAN lathe post for my haas TL1 I wanted to change instead of going home at end of tool I want just a Z6.0 at end of each tool, output a M00 after Z6.0 I 'll be out until mon thanks for the help Mike using X with update MPLFAN post

Welcome to the forum Mike

I know in mr1 you can't, this is a gripe of mine also mike

I'll give it a try, I do a ton to npt 1/8,1/4, with a skip tooth in 316 on the mini mill and it always worked great thanks

Thanks for the info, the thing that got me was the tap is in perfect condition, not so much as a chipped flute. I would of thought the tap would of broke or spun in the collet before it yanked it out of the spindle. For you guys that do tap what rpm would you suggest for a 1/2-20, I'll see if I can find the torque to rpm specs for the mini mill. If it has enough power to pull the holder out of the spindle at that rpm, youd think it would have enough to tap. I think i'll threadmill from now on 1/2" and under. Thanks

All the code&options are good it has every option, I just got off the phone with HAAS and they said luckily I was at a 100 rpm or it could of done much more damage. I do have the ridig tapping option and it has worked fine for hundreds/thousands of holes alomost 2 years, mostly in brass and plastics.Peter, I was only tapping .400 deep, the drilled hole is .950 deep. I've done 12 parts before the problem and they tapped great. Anyways, it looks like I need a new drawbar, luckily I don't think it messed anything else in the spindle

hey guys, any mini mill users ever had any problems with tapping stainless or similar metals. I was tapping a 1/2-20 hole in s.s.316 with a good tap @ 100rpm plenty of coolant .400 deep the hole is .950 deep plenty of room. I guess it cought a chip and the cat40 holder pulled out of the spindle on the reverse and chewed up the pullstud and messed up the balls that grab the stud. I always threadmill anything over a 1/2" just curious what you guys do and if you have had any problems tapping before. thanks mike

Hey John, from what I can tell on my mini, is the tube for the separator goes under the way covers. If there is a pinched seal or chips causing coolant to leak thru into that area it may cause that?? just a guess mike

that did it, thanks Jay you guys are awesome

hey Matt,they are both set to top, when I post the file it is rotating 180. instead of cutting at A0.0. This is the first time using the 4th ax to do something other than indexing mike

hey guys, I have some parts that need a o-ring groove on the o.d. of the part 1.625" dia. I made a few prototypes a while back out of plastic, now I have to make some out of 316 ss. My problems are when i verify the part it cuts the groove 180. deg off. Instead of coming down and cutting it is going underneath or 180.0 ?? Second is the feedrates, there is two spots where the feed almost stops then speeds up and it also seems kinda jerky. I was able to work around the feed problem with plasic but not stainless. The file is on the ftp in the mcx folder file name is 4ax oring groove xlds haas mill, HRT 160 rotary table Thanks, mike