Slitting saw survey (fear of slitting)

[Chris Rizzo]

Can we get 90 posts on slitting, like the tapping one going now?

 

Just curious as to what some of you other guys might run a 36 tooth, 4" x 3/32 HSS slitting saw at...here's what I'm running in 6061 al.

 

400rpm = (418 sfm)

35 ipm = (.0025 chip load)

 

total cut depth is about .675", taken in 3 .200 steps. Climb cutting. Reasonably sturdy setup, would like to have it a little beefier though.. It's run a bunch of parts just fine thus far, but I'm a little concerned about climb cutting, and sucking in a cutter or part...

 

flashbacks to climb cutting on manual horizontals

[Tim Johnson]

I run ours at 500 sfm at .0005 chip load and take the full cut running conventional. I've had problems with parts pinching when breaking thru while climb cutting but don't get that problem going conv.

[jeff]

quote:

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Can we get 90 posts on slitting, like the tapping one going now?

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Thanks for the hearty laugh,I needed that this morning.

I don't think yo would have a problem with pinching in aluminum.

We climb cut our saw cutters mostly,and conventional cut on rare occasions.

[Keith Graydon]

quote:

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and sucking in a cutter or part...

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only if the machine is sloppy (mucho backlash) or the setup is les than rigid.

 

Is the cutter a conventional cutter or a side-cutter? I would choose a side-cutter given the choice. Carbide too if cost wasnt an issue. Conventional cutting will give better chip clearance on deep cuts. realy flood with coolant too.

 

my .02

 

-Keith

[MACHINEMASTERG]

i would go to full depth of cut and speed up the rpms.. climb cutting

[Jack Mitchell]

This is always scary for me.

I would go with one pass conventional, slow feed, and 250rpm (for steel).

I err to caution since I have broken a few of these before - and this is not very pretty.

 

Regards, Jack

[crazy^millman]

Not me I have taken an 1/8" thick 8" diamaeter and cut toolsteel almost 2.95 deep in one pass. I have found taken multipasses is the biggest thing against slitting saws. I say if the speed and feed is right and you got the machien and set-up to support it run it. It sucks to break one and yeah done that too but if other people are doing it full depth in one pass then they are able ot do it cheaper than you and you lose the business bucuase of a slitting saw they in the grad scheme of things are alot cheaper to replace than lost work.

[JazzBass]

I indicate them in... I had a .032" thick carbide saw shatter at high rpm once. Had to pick shards out of the plexiglass windows on the vmc.

[Chris Rizzo]

Funny you mention that Rick, I blew up a few last year, I finally attributed to a crappy arbor. Thus my "apprehension" this round'. It's pretty hit and miss to get these things to run true..how do you go about adjusting them if they are out?

 

My system is- take the cat40 holder with the arbor mounted in it, put it in a lathe and face the mating surface of the arbor just a bit. I'm using a set screw cat40, Figured I get a better drive with that, and the fact that my arbor has a weldon shank. Using a collet would probably get the saw to run truer though, just not sure of the holding power with er32 AND weldon shank.

 

 

Thanks for the other tips fellas.

-Oh yeah, it's a side cutter with relief. Seems like there's a mix of conventional vs. climb preferences. I've been bumping d.o.c and seems to still be running fine still...and I have'nt blown one up yet. so I guess I'm in the ballpark.

[Mito@DeeringBanjos]

2000 RPM.- 80 IPM. .115 deep in one shot.

( did i mention its in wood )

[JazzBass]

cmr,

 

I've been using TG collet holders. They grip very well. I indicate the bottom of the blade. Tap on the arbor to get it to run straight. I've had a lot of +.003/-.000 slots lately. It's worked for me.