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O/T Welding Aluminuim


Frank
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Hi all: I figured I could give it a shot, if anybody knows about welding Aluminium. What I had was a major screw up on a very elaborate part. It was completly finished, and all I had to do was put an "O" ring groove in the top, and used the wrong cad file, to generate the toolpath. "BIG MISTAKE" The boss says that welding that groove closed .104 wide x .052 deep would generate too much heat and screw the close tolerances that have allready been machined. I'm hoping that there is some way to weld it and direct the heat in 1 general area. And save this part.

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Frank

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quote:

The boss wants to just scrap it and start over.

IMO,the boss knows what he is talking about.

We do all kinds of welding/fab./machining here and I know for a fact that you part will be very distorted all over. mad.gif

Not to mention that fact that in most situations,you need to get written approval from your customer to even attempt to sell them this "re-worked" what used to be a gem! wink.gif

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I certainly don't see any harm in trying since the part is scrap anyway, as long as the customer will take a welded part. Preheat the entire part on a hot plate and take your time welding at the lowest amp setting that will work. I would heat up a practice block before jumping in. With every precaution I'm 90% sure you'll end up scrapping it out anyway.

 

 

good luck

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Frank

 

Bummer on the goof, that sucks. My last life was at a shop where we ran aluminum almost exclusively and the torch was a VEEeeeerrry common repair tool when the guys said 'oops I just counterbored the wrong side of this $3,000 chassis'. If you are gonna junk the part anyway I'd take a whack at it but you have several things to consider first:

 

1) If the part isn't 6061 make sure that it is weldable as some Al alloys do not react to weld positively

 

2) If the part is going to be anodized, chromated, or subjected to any other acid-etch process the weld will show up like a sore thumb; this needs to be considered

 

3) If there are any holes or other features within an inch or so of the welded area of the part they will pull toward the weld when it cools

 

4) TIG is the only viable option, must be performed by someone who knows what they are doing, and the parts must be absolutely clean

 

Good Luck

 

 

C

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Guest CNC Apps Guy 1

quote:

...4) TIG is the only viable option, must be performed by someone who knows what they are doing, and the parts must be absolutely clean

...

+1000 You'll want the smallest torch you can get your hands on, your Tungsten 'trode shoudl be SUPER sharp at the tip too so the arc doesn't get so large. I'd suggest a Square Wave TIG if you've got one in the house. MIG is absolutely positively out of the question also in case you were wondering.

 

JM2C and HTH

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I would core the hole about .25" radially larger, then press fit the same material with about .003 interferance, then install the hole detail accordingly.

 

If this won't work then the part is scrapped anyways - give it round two and learn from the mistakes. smile.gif

 

One place I worked at, we had to triple draw the mold inserts; it's the part where we sent them out for engraving for an automotive customer. The inserts returned after the final draw and the heat treater hardness tested the face mad.gif

 

We had a magical welder that was good with H13 perform the miracle to save this job, prior to this I was unaware how often this practice occurs.

 

Regards, Jack

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Tig would be the best choice if possible. Also remember once you start plasticizing alim. or steel it may,depnding on what it is, change the temper of the metal.

I used to use alot of spray welding applications(unfortunately) when regular welding could cause too much heat.Good for build up and fill in but not very precision.I beleive the source we used was in Metro Detroit area. Been 6-7 years so i don't remember who, but could probably find out...

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