O/T

[petro7]

The drill we use is size , then we would have to refixture the part, which would not be easy to hold. we have tried alot of different machining methods and found this to be the best. we have had a few different tool reps in over the years, and this seems to be their solution. I was just hoping there was a good deburring method other than tying up a maching center.

[Flycut]

From what I can gather you seem to be holding it down with one big "washer" and nut threw the center.

Right?

 

If you tried holding it in a chuck you would get a lot of open area to work with.

 

Is a chuck an option?

[Ocean Lacky™]

ok, here's one......lose the drill and use Helix Bore?

[Flycut]

Have you tried/considered any Dremel tools?

[?Mark]

Can you try programming radiuses and stepping down ?

[petro7]

We tried holding in soft jaws, to much cutting pressure, the piece kept moving. helix boring took 3 times longer. we are using a dremel right now while the machine is running. I am going to order a carbide reamer an run that down after the drill and see if that takes care of most of the burr. thanks for all the reply, all your ideas definitely help. just have to keep playing with different machining methods.

[billystein]

look john.

a fadal

[Thee Rickster ™]

Is the drill making the burr?

 

Are you drilling on size then plunging an endmill

to depth to make the bottom flat?

 

If so, you could try drilling (.02?) undersize and

finish with the endmill. It may cut the burr off

with the bottom of the em. It might leave less of

a burr on the virticle edge of the posts too.

 

 

Just a thought

[Flycut]

Those 6 holes on the top face, are they threw?

[petro7]

The 6 holes are thru. .250 dia. the drill is a insert drill and ithas a flat bottom. we only use 1 tool to complete this part.

[within a thou]

Whats keeping you from adding a endmill with a small rad or 45 and plunging down where the OD is on one side around the area with the big burr and up the otherside sort in like a U path might take a while to program but you are obviously talking large volume of parts

[Kevangel]

quote:

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The drill we use is size , then we would have to refixture the part, which would not be easy to hold

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Was that in reply to my post? Would not matter I don't think, do you see what I mean by surrounding your part by metal, so big burrs can't form as much ? (similar to as if your part were bigger, so that holes don't break out- just putting metal back in fixture to have same effect).

[Hardmill]

quote:

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The 6 holes are thru. .250 dia. the drill is a insert drill and ithas a flat bottom. we only use 1 tool to complete this part.

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How about a couple pins and shoulder bolts on the through holes.

 

PEACE

[petro7]

Hardmill

 

We use the six holes for alignment, we put pins down thru the holes into our fixture. a shoulderbolt would be good except the wall thickness is only .05 between the big hole and small hole. no room for the head.

 

With in a Thou.

 

our top plate that holds down.

 

Kevangel

 

Do you mean put a ring around the outside plus the inside. then drop the part down inside the two rings.I may give that a try. Just worried about chip evac. no thru spindle coolant.

[?Mark]

quote:

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.250 dia. the drill is a insert drill and ithas a flat bottom. we only use 1 tool to complete this part.

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I see, said a blind man...

So you pretty much use it as a plunger. If that's that's the case then there is no way to avoid the burrs, plungers always leave burrs unless you do something like Kev suggested, but it'll be a b$tch to remove the part from this setup.

The way i see it milling it will get you the best results when it comes to burrs but will add machine time, so it's going to be a trade-off...

Imho I'd have a machine do the job, even if it takes longer...

hth

[Müřlıń®]

I would make a trim punch/die and cut the large burs off. Then toss 'em in the tumbler...with some big rocks...If it was an ongoing job...

 

You could use mild steel and stellite the cutting edges...

 

Murlin teh .02

[Kevangel]

quote:

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Kevangel

 

Do you mean put a ring around the outside plus the inside. then drop the part down inside the two rings.I may give that a try. Just worried about chip evac. no thru spindle coolant.

---

yes grasshopper, but need to look ahead for gettin part out...jack screws in fixture out of brass or maybe pry bar slots (DME sells great pry bars) or both as don't want to fight that. Wonder if you could plumb some flush pressure in bottom of fixture on both sides of holes?? Murlin is the old die cast diemaker with trim die idea which I like also, yea Murlin I built die cast dies too

[Müřlıń®]

[Kevangel]

quote:

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I would make a trim punch/die and cut the large burs off. Then toss 'em in the tumbler...with some big rocks...If it was an ongoing job...

 

You could use mild steel and stellite the cutting edges...

 

---

Maybe heat treat a block of S7 and wire EDM both punches out of same block with mounting holes already in, need some knock out holes to BEAT part out or maybe just springs that crunch down as part goes in being trimmed and die springs with stripper plate then push it back out as press goes up. Very important not to have parts that will press in NEVER to be released....

[Müřlıń®]

I would take a 3/4 plate and weld 4 posts on it at 4 corners.

 

Cut the dia thru with .01 clearance.

 

Then turn the turn the punch andweld some bolt down legs on the bottom, make it the same height as the table you just made.

 

Then take another plate to use as the stripper and bore the punch size in it and attach the stripper to the top platen with side arms.

As the press rises it will strip.

 

You could use springs but it would require some more machining.

 

You have to retain those springs to keep them from flying out. Then you would have to guide the stripper as well if you used springs.

 

If you just attached the stripper to the top plate, there would be minimal fab required.

Only bolts would be the tie downs.

[kunfuzed]

How tight are your tolerances? What about doing the entire profile in the mill and second op facing in a lathe(or mill). Process may not be faster, but instead of deburing these parts while the machine is running, the operator could be deburing other parts or even facing the backside of these.

[petro7]

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I refixtured the part and ran a profile toolpath around the part which only add 5min. the burrs are now gone. the 1/4 inch pin holes we use for aligning, I tapped them 5/16 unc. 1" deep and threaded bolts in from the bottom to pull the part down on the fixture. which then eliminates the top plate, this was ok with engineering. this makes our operator life much easier. Thanks again the more ideas the better.

[Müřlıń®]

5 min extra a part....must be low volume...you could probably trim 10 per minute with a press..

 

Ya that would work for low volume..

[petro7]

100 parts is high volume for us. we usally only do small quanities.

[?Mark]

quote:

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only add 5min. the burrs are now gone

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Good job, no more cuts on hands so put those band-aids away