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cutting aluminum


Travis2282
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Guest CNC Apps Guy 1

Without seeing the parts, that's what I would infer.

 

Try using reverse flute endmills (spiral down as opposed to spiral up). Then will force the cutting pressure down. Or, don't cut the pocket in steps. Spiral down to finish depth in the center and spiral your way out taking less radial cut than usual. I've dont that n the past.

 

HTH

 

Welcome to the forum cheers.gif

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Not to hijack this thread...too much, I am a wood guy but have machined aluminum on the routers a few times and may have to again sometime, could I ask what my RPM's, IPM's should be at?

 

I was using a down spiral solid carbide with a 800-1000RPM @ 50ipm...which sounded rough and left light chatter marks on the floor of the part. Are my rpms too low, ipm too high,wrong tool? sounds like I got the spiral right at least.

I realize that different grades would mean different settings(or I would assume), I just need a general idea....thanks

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quote:

I was using a down spiral solid carbide with a 800-1000RPM @ 50ipm...which sounded rough and left light chatter marks on the floor of the part. Are my rpms too low, ipm too high,wrong tool? sounds like I got the spiral right at least.

What size and type of tool? How many flutes? How thick was the aluminum?

 

If you are running 800 RPMs @ 50 IPM, that is a chip load of .0625 inches per rev. That is pretty high.

 

Need a little more info to give you a better answer.

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A radius on the EM will give you some downforce as well, but not as much as a reverse helix.

 

Another thing you can do is leave more material on the floor during rough, start in the middle, and melt out( semi-finish/ finish/step out radially/semi-finish/finish/step out radial/etc.) similar to the way you would melt down a flange.

 

CNCPRO

Most aluminum can be cut without a limit to RPM. We run a .500 carbide at 30,000 RPM and I know there are machine that go even faster. It is extremely forgiving if its held in a rigid state.

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I'm curious, I've used "left hand helix, right hand cutting " end mills for thin wall sections ( with fixturing to support the opposite side of the wall ) but because of the negative angle on the end of the end mill I've never had any success milling floors with them. insted of "shearing" material up and away from the cutter, they "plow" the material down and into the face you are machining. usually resulting in galling and poor surface finishes....so, my question to those of you who have had success milling floors with these tools is how have you applied them ?...I know the question is vague, sorry. Thanks in advance for any advice.

mike

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