Trev Im pretty sure my current employer is not going to be able to match what i am getting at the new place as they would have to give me another 10 bucks an hour just to match the new offer.If it was only a mater of a few bucks I wouldn't even be considering it.I'm supposed to have a talk with the new guy tonight so I'll see what his final offer is and get it on paper and then make my decision. Noel

Ive been putting in 30 hours a week at the other place for about 2 1/2 months now and the more I go there the more I like it. the type of work is way more satisfying.My wife says she hasn't seen me this happy with my work in a long time.I'm starting to think that there is nothing to loose and everything to gain.Most machinests are fueled by the challenge and have a overwhelming pasion for their work and the owner of the company shares my pasion and I already know that I can work with him.If anything it should be a fun ride.Who knows mabey I will still chicken out.Time will tell.I don't plan on burning any bridges and am more than wiling to train my replacement.I would only be an email of a phone call away.Mabey it is just an early midlife crisis.Any way thanks to the members for their advice.This forum is an invaluable tool in more ways than one. Noel

All very good points.As far as bieng the boss and the stress level goes I more or less do that now.It's hard to come in every day and build the same parts just different sizes everyday.If I do this it will be for the challenge more than the money.Dont get me wrong the money would be a big part.As far as it not working out I am not the least bit scared of finding something else.There is always work for good toolmakers.I'm only 37 and a big part of me doesn't want to get old and think what if. Noel

The shop forman defected and took most of the employees with him so all of the machine shop guys are new.I got to interveiw most of the new guys before they were hired.I have worked with the new guys and they seem to be pretty good workers with little attitude.The boss has no problem showing someone the door if they are not up to snuff.mabey i'll make a ridiculous proposal and if he says yes it will help make the decision easier. Noel

It will definatly be on paper.I dont do anything on a promise even if it was the pope. Noel

Harry That is one of my concerns.He is a very demanding boss as far as the quality of your work.Which is fine by me because I am the same way (as close to perfection as possible).I have known the boss for 3 years now .The phone bill is huge when we get talking shop.He has told me the shop would be mine to run as I see fit,but with that comes a lot of responcability. My biggest fear is if things change when it becomes an emploee boss relationship.I though about a leave of absence to try it out but as I am the only one at my current shop that knows mastercam that wouldn't go over to well. Noel

Thats the thing the new shop has been around for about 15 years now and is very diverse in the types of work they do.I have been helping out part time for about 3 months now and cant help thinking about it when I am at my day job.I'm trying to make sure it isn't a case of the grass is always greener.the guy that owns the company is a friend of mine and is real good at getting the work the problem seems to be getting the work out the door.I hate these type of decisions. Noel

I have been ofered a job at a shop in the area that pays more but the shop is fairly disfunctional.They want me to get things running more smoothly and pofitably.I have been at my current shop for 20 years now and am torn as to what to do. How many members have had to make a decision like this and what helped to make up your mind to stay or go. Noel

To fast for me James Noel

Have you tried the file/printer setup pull down.There is a box in there for use colors.Not sure if that will do it. Noel

MachineSMMC Are you using a start point with depth limits.I have had this happen when i set my first cut to absolute -.05" but had my start point to low.Mostly if I have surfaces above z zero and my start point at z zero.If i move the z on my start point up to z.1 it takes the cuts properly. I cant seem to get on the ftp site so i cant look at your file.I'll keep trying though. Noel

quote: lilgit, I don't feel any country who isn't willing to step up and do thier part in the world has a right to an opinion. quote: so called allies who are sometimes little more then parasites living off our enonomy Don't judge an entire counry by the words and actions of a few.And I hardly think that Canada is a parasite living of of the US economy.The US wouldn't trade with Canada if there wasn't something in it for them. Noel

I'm working on not falling asleep.We are so slow I haven't got a lot to program. Noel

that thing must push off like a bitch.What material and cutting conditions are you how many using.how many futes.mabey put it on the ftp site and everyone could chew on it . Noel

Thanks for all of the tips guys. The parts will be bolted down through the 5 holes spaced around the part.I haven't been told what type of nylon that they are using but I think it is of the soft and gummy variety.I talked to one of my endmill supplyers and he says that a stub length 2fl carbide should work well I mentioned the sharpness of the edge and he asures me that the end mill he has in mind has a very sharp edge.I am limited to a 1/4 inch dia because of inside rad sizes.If I run the spindle at its max of 6000 rpm what would be a good feed I was thinking of starting at about 80 ipm as it is an older machine and doesn't like to go much faster. Noel

David try this thread http://www.emastercam.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...ic;f=1;t=009825 Noel

I have a job to do that requires me to profile some 3/8 thick nylon parts.I am thinking of using a 1/4 dia hss high helix 2 flute end mill. The machine only has a 6000 rpm spindle . the parts will be fixtured well so torque shouldnt be a problem. My question is a 2 parter. 1) what chip load per tooth can I get away with and 2) can i get away with cutting it in one shot 3/8 deep or should i use 2 or 3 depth cuts. I do have a few spares to play around with. Any imput would be greatly appreciated. Noel

The best way to fix it would be to make Don Cherry the comisioner.Say goodbye to the instigator rule. Noel

Sounds like Jspangler and I have the same questions regarding the 6t lathe control and tool setting with a g50.So come on all you lathe gurus let us know what you think.If any one could go through their set up procedure it would be of great help. I have to go out to my budys shop tonight and try to figure this out as he is 3 days behind on this job and is getting desperate.either way I have to get chips tonight. Thanks in advance Noel

Good evening all. I did a search and ony found one topic relating to this.I am trying to set up an old lathe with a fanuc 6t control that uses g50's.Can I treat the g50like a g54 and make it the same for all tools and just enter the difference between my reference tool and the other tools in the tool offset page with the reference having a tool offset of zero.Or do I need to set the difference at each tool as a g50 before and after each tool.The guys running the machine dont seem to know what to do.They say that the machine is not reacting to the changes that they are making to the tool offsets(G50'S).Why is there nothing but zeros entered in the tool offsets page. I have been off the lathe for a while the oldest control I have worked with was a 10tf so any help would be greatly apreciated. Thanks Noel

You can lick your own wond. Were not worthy Noel

Same here Noel

Good Morning We have an old Okuma and Howa Act5 lathe with a 10tf control that uses fapt.It has been awhile since we have used the fapt but I will try to help as best I can.As far as the tool setting goes a typical 80 deg insert 1/32 nose rad OD turning tool would be set as follows AC(cutting edge)Ie clearance angle set to 3 deg AN nose angle(insert angle) 80 deg nr .0312(nose rad) XN .0312 zn .0312 xs 0 zs 0 as -90 the same style cutter in back cutting would be set as follows AC(cutting edge)Ie clearance angle set to -3 deg AN nose angle(insert angle) -80 deg nr .0312(nose rad) XN .0312 zn -.0312 xs 0 zs 0 as -90 an 80 deg boring bar would be AC(cutting edge)Ie clearance angle set to 87 deg AN nose angle(insert angle) -80 deg nr .0312(nose rad) XN .0312 zn .0312 xs 0 zs 0 as 180(setting angle of tool Hope this helps Noel

You ever notice that faith is what they tell you you have to have when they have no proof.Rather convient if you ask me. Noel

We do the type of neck insert threads you are talking about alot. We used to do them manualy on a threading table that can be set to rise and ower at the proper pitch for the thread.The head of the bridgport is then tilted to the proper helix angle so to eliminate the wiping efect of the cutter.Once the cutter is set in the x direction it is never moved.The cutter is fed in the y plus direction until the correct dia is reached.then the tabe is rotated the corect # of turns called out on the print. I have figured out how to do it on the nc mill but it is basicaly the same idea.I just use the rotary table to turn the part past the tool using the y axis to control the dia of the thread. I still have to tilt the head to the proper helix angle for each indevidual thread. Noel