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Jack Mitchell

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Everything posted by Jack Mitchell

  1. All is well on March 14th. So Jayson, who won the shirt raffle? Regards, Jack
  2. For drilling I would recommend app. 40SFPM and be sure to peck often, this stuff heats up really fast; don’t worry none, cause you’ll hear it pretty quick. For milling with a Coro 390 (2040 grade) you can use as much as 500SFPM, I prefer 385SFPM. Use layered cuts app. .06~.12 axial’ treat this material like you would Stainless but cut her back about 10~12%. Ampco 21 is similar to 18 but has a slightly higher iron content. Ampco21 looks like a Hasteloy from a side angle once you get a suitable finish – tough stuff indeed. As somebody else suggested, go sharp, but the tools are not going to last you very long. Regards, Jack
  3. +1 on drago's comment; been there and done it more than once. Regards, Jack
  4. I don’t believe a servo motor can get out of tune. A servo top card can be electrically trimmed via this card but a qualified electronics technician from Mitsubishi, Fanuc, or whoever, really needs to be the one doing this task. I suspect that these conditions that you describe may also be adjusted through parameters as well. A servo hum can also occur when there is an obstruction around your limits or home position – try peeling off the guarding to ensure absolute cleanliness. Regards, Jack
  5. I have seen one of these machines at a former employer’s shop. I believe the conversational is called Shop Mill or Shop Mate – something like that; I also know that this machine takes ISO coding as well. Sounds rather suspicious when then dealer or reseller can say that it won’t take the code. Regards, Jack
  6. This will become an impossible task for sourcing without a direct contribution from your client; you might also look into Lexan as a possible substitution. Clarity, temper, temperature, and impact are just some of the variables that could possibly affect this project and its design intent. Another consideration is to purchase an item that has this material – destroy the item and consume the parts that you require for manufacture. The 10+ week delivery from Japan is probably not going to satisfy your customer. Good Luck. Regards, Jack
  7. I am curious as to the application. Have you considered asking the customer for an approved source? Regards, Jack
  8. To change the dimensional tolerance: Tools, options, document properties, dimensions, precision, primary dimensions. Click the flyout and change to anything you like. My previous response is correct – it addresses units and not dimensions as shown here. Regards, Jack
  9. From SW 2004 with an open drawing: Tools, options, document properties, units, custom, inches. From here click the flyout and change from the default 2 places to 8 places; then save the drawing. HTH..,Regards, Jack
  10. Another interesting thing for consideration is the mantissa display on a calculator. Some will show 8 places after the decimal and some will show 10 places. The processor actually floats with sixteen places but can only echo the maximum of the mantissa display. 1.4444444444444445 should actually round off at 1.4445 I’m not too sure about 32bit and 64bit processors though. Regards, Jack
  11. If I was to program a 1.000” hole then the radius would be exactly .500”. A value differing would not be mathematically correct and therefore a machine tool cannot cut anything that is not mathematically perfect or correct – correct? Not so; a typical Cnc will accept a variance of .4998 ~ .5002 depending on the parametric settings on a particular control. It has been my experience that numerically speaking, a control has the ability to realize a plus/minus error of .0002” when vectoring. Just my thoughts. Regards, Jack
  12. quote: Guess I can't apply because of my weak Mastercam training....Fred MitchellFred, you get your butt in there and slug it out. Scheesh, you're making me look bad in here. Regards, Jack
  13. Hey apprentice, On a Fanuc 6T, G50 has other functions as well. Which lathe control are you using? I don't want to disclose and confuse unless I absolutly have to. Regards, Jack
  14. Try a search on macro's or lettering on the forum. As I recall somebody (Dave?) did up the whole alphabet in scaleable macro driven text. Regards, Jack
  15. An overheated cpu or graphics card will do this. Run Sisoft Sandra and give her the torture test. Another idea is to open the case to observe these fans are indeed running at speed. This might even be a loose ram stick as well. Motherboards today employ many safety features to protect against burn out. Regards, Jack
  16. quote: Surely you jest.I like that Regards, Jack
  17. I remember when the oxygen card was all that & a bag of chips; isn’t it odd how quickly technology just moves along. To think that I actually lusted for this card. Regards, Jack
  18. X=-28.4765 Y=-9.1061 Z=-23.8382 These are the values that you must enter at the G54 thru G59 offset screen. Push the main menu screen at the control twice (upper left) ~ from here you will acsess the offset screen, I think it's the third button in. The Mazatrol WPC unit is an entirely different beast. Regards, Jack
  19. The quickest method would be to use a Mazatrol program containing your WPC. This can be auto or manual probed. Branch out to the EIA program without a G54. The smarter method requires you to probe in Mazatrol and write down these numbers, then input the G54 values as the same. The wisest method would be to use an edge finder and to teach in each value field. I don't believe auto or manual probing is possible in EIA on a Mazak vertical - I could very well be mistaken. Hang in there I am sure others will contribute with a response. Regards, Jack
  20. It might sound silly, but check your oil levels. Often, on older controllers, only one error can echo to the screen. Regards, Jack
  21. There goes CAM, boasting once again about his EZ Track. j/k Just trying to overtake your post count. Regards, Jack
  22. quote: Chris who?Priceless Regards, Jack
  23. Sorry about the mix up Jayson. It would apear that Merchants get the advantages that I was talking about earlier. The straight away email that you spec'd is valid and you will have received a modest donation by now. Please keep the amount confidential. Regards, Jack
  24. Jayson, What is your PayPal Email ID# IE: (PP***)or something similar. Dropcash or anything else will still require this unique ID number otherwise were just paying somebody else in thin air. I forwarded to you an exact payment situation when I emailed funds to his account. You should really use something just like this. Please give me your PayPal Email ID# and I send you some. Not sure? email me at [email protected] Regards, Jack

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