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Cat 40 retention knob torque?


Slixmix
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Something I found.

 

Torque Specs for Retention Knobs:

 

30 Taper = 40 ft/lbs

35 Taper = 40 ft/lbs

40 Taper = 85 ft/lbs

45 Taper = 100ft/lbs

50 Taper = 110 ft/lbs.

These reflect Maximum values for Techniks brand holders. Use these numbers as a reference ONLY. Actual torque specifications may be less or more for other brands. Request torque specifications from the manufacturer of YOUR toolholder.

 

Hope it helps, I have never needed loctite for a retention knob though.

 

Neil

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Thanks alot! When I was running Mazak 50 taper machines we used loc-tight. These wittle biggrin.gif 40 tapers probably don't need it. Anyone else ever use loc-tight? Just curious.

 

quote:

I just tighten the $hit out of them.


eek.gifeek.gif

I was told thats a no no! You can actually bulge the bottom of the taper? Bad Rick! biggrin.gif

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quote:

Anyone else ever use loc-tight? Just curious.


Use it on all 40 and 50 taper holders.

Also almost

quote:

I just tighten the $hit out of them.

Also was told it's a big no-no but haven't had a problem yet (set it and forget it as far as pull studs are concerned).

quote:

You can actually bulge the bottom

Bottom of a pull stud is well above highest contact point on a taper.

 

Mark

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Guest CNC Apps Guy 1

quote:

I was told thats a no no! You can actually bulge the bottom of the taper? Bad Rick!


It's a bad practice because even (as stated earlier) though it is above the taper in many casesm it is not in all and can cause fretting. I've personally witnessed it. I use my small Crescent Wrench for 30 and 40 Taper holders and just snug it up. NEVER had one loosen up either. Add some Loc-Tite if you're nervous.

 

HTH

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Nick, how goes it?

 

Yep, I have always used lock tite as well. And on High speed 40 tapers. Although sometimes I get "out of habit".. biggrin.gif

 

The biggest problem I've seen with the "tighten the sh!t out of it" method, is the periodic cracking of the pull stud right below the stud flange on the thread side, in particular to thru coolant studs. I've seen these tools come apart in the machine at full speed. Thank god no personal injuries yet over the years.

 

You want a wake up call??? How about a 50 taper pull stud letting loose at 15K??!!! eek.gif HELLO!!

 

cheers.gif

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Sounds like 85 ft/lbs IS tightening the $hit out of them. We have always just tighten the $hit out of them with a wrench but the handle is only 7" long. I'm sure this is under the 85ft/lbs but I have not measured it... I do not know how I'm going to get a torque wrench on it when the knob only has 2 flats on it headscratch.gif

 

Rick

 

We are thinking about purchasing a Haas EC-400 as well. How do you like yours so far?

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Eric, there's a socket you can buy that fits the two flat knob. Works killer! cheers.gif

 

Haas is Haas, It's a good little machine. The only gripe I have is the coolant tank and flow design sucks. Other than that, Its great to setup an run.

I cut about 1/4 the run time from production jobs I used to run on the Verts.

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We went with the Toolex 6" double vise setups. Both pallets have 8 stations. We have a customer that makes fuel pumps for the locomotive and marine industries that is sending us a boat load of work. Mostly 1018 steel with a little aluminum. I talked the boss into to getting a probe also. New machine, holders, etc... Fun, fun, fun..

 

toolex.JPG

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in regaurds to retention knobs:

 

some of the people here used loctite on them,we have not had any problems. I was always against the practice because we used to interchange knobs between machines. Now we don't have that problem anymore. I have always used a spanner wrench with a soft hammer.

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Having never seen a pull stud come loose (exception partially screwed in by hand and taper failed to register in spindle)

 

Having seen many problems from overtightining, collets, studs, clamps, vises etc

 

except during tool change the bellvile washers maintain force.

 

Locktite unnessary. A decent snug works great and prevents problems later down the road

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