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Surface finish


CNC-ERIC
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if that is the case I would helix bore with multipasses on using a .250 2 flute data flute a 63 is not that bad to achive even that deep. They have these cutters with 2" LOC. I cut pocects with .130 rads 1 3/4 deep with them. just keep the rpms down below 5000 they can squawk alot going deep.

 

[ 09-18-2008, 06:31 PM: Message edited by: mold100 ]

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Don't think so.

 

"A micrometre (American spelling: micrometer; symbol µm) is one millionth of a metre, or equivalently one thousandth of a millimetre. It is also commonly known as a micron. It can be written in scientific notation as 1×10−6 m, meaning 1/1 000 000 m."

 

He said UM, thats incredably fine. I wasn't aware that sinker edm's could achive such a fine finish.

 

Some spotfaceing tools can achive relatively fine finishes, rigidity being a must. I might try fine boring for the sides, radiused nose of course, and a 2 flute e-mill ground .002 under dia. Knock 1 of the flutes off, then grind the remaining flute flat, with a 3 deg. primary relief, followed by a 7 deg. secondary relief, making sure that the remaining flute barely comes across centerline, thus avoiding a xxxx in the center of the spotface. SLOW speed and light feed with a dwell should do the trick. Leave the bottom of the bore heavy, and mess with it untill you achive the finish your after.

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1.6 micrometers does approximately equal 64 micro inches. Here is why.

 

1 mm = 1000 um

1 mm = .03937 in

 

setup the conversion like this

 

1.6 um X in

------ = ---- ---> solve for X

1000 um .03937 in

 

X =.000062992 and multiply by 10^6 to get back to micro inches

 

X = 62.992 microinches or 63 Ra

 

This kind of stuff can mistakenly make a $100 job into a $1000 pretty quick.

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I used to turn brake drums for a Japanese forklift company. The finish requirement for the braking surface was 2.5 um which came out to a surface fininsh of 98 in inches. The formula I used was a little easier (maybe not totally accurate) but it was 2.5/.0254 = 98.4

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I agree with mold100. ive done several holes just like what he discribed and using a 1/4" flat bottom endmill and rotoring out the hole and finishing with a nice carbide endmill should do the trick. Have a gauge pin handy that is the size you want and do your final pass with a 2d with cutter comp until the pin fits. Carbides tend to be a thou or 2 off so dont forget to take that into account.

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