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About Beem

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  1. Been there and lived that. Companies pushing for sales, sales, sales. Nevermind that we also have to make the product. And don't even ask about investing in the capital or personnel training. Companies like this overvalue the sales side and from what I've seen don't care about the production side of the business or the people on that side of the business. That's also why I'm not still and my former employer and ran out.
  2. Thanks. I did find that earlier. I just need to work on integrating it.
  3. Does anyone have any suggestions for a small parts vacuum? I'm looking for something that would attach to the pneumatic parts catcher and would suck the small parts out of the sub collet. This is for a Tsugami BE2-V.
  4. Beem

    screw compressor in the shop

    We had a couple of Kaeser screw compressors and they were great. We started with a 25HP and when we needed to add on, put another 25HP in. They were plumbed so the 2nd one would only kick on when pressure got low and the first couldn't keep up. They would also idle when it hit set pressure. Very few issues with them and they lasted many years. Main thing for any compressor is regular service and to make sure they are in a room that they don't get too hot or cold.
  5. Try greasing it first. A chuck can lose 25% of it's gripping power if not greased that shift. The longer it's not greased, the more holding power it loses. I assume you're barfeeding, so it's rather odd that it would only be on the last 4 parts. Insert could have been wearing as well.
  6. It depends a bit on the type of work you do. We are not a job shop and have product lines that we manufacture. Almost all parts are square or round, so workholding is always very straight forward. I figure it's a lost art both from our shops experience and from the people that I've interviewed. We all know the job market is tight and hard to find employees. Finding an experienced programmer/machinist where his experience actually means something is like a diamond in the rough. That's my 2C and you can take it for what it's worth.
  7. Thanks for the replies. I agree that workholding is a lost art. It's hard to learn workholding creativity without going through the experience.
  8. Nice crane part. That's an odd shape, but still within your chuck diameter, so balancing is key as you did. The swing would be your definite max diameter. However, we've got a Doosan Lynx with a 6" chuck. Doosan states that max turning diameter is 12.5". Since there's not enough space put on a larger chuck, I would doubt that putting 12"dia on a 6" chuck is the smartest idea. On another lathe, we've got a 10" chuck. I've chucked larger than the chuck diameter before, but what safety factor would you say is ok? 2, 4, 6in larger than chuck diameter?
  9. Just wondering what the general rule of thumb on how large a part can be chucked in a given chuck size. For instance, if you have a 10" chuck, can you chuck larger than the chuck diameter? I know that there are ways to do so, but am wondering what the industry norm is.
  10. We just started running a Kennametal (formerly Stellram) HFM. We're using the C7792VXD12 in the 2in size. It runs faster, deeper cut, and is capable of more than our older Ingersoll ones. This tool is capable of a lot more than the Ingersoll as well. We cut mostly H-13 in both hard and soft states. We currently are running it at 1050RPM, 289IPM, .05DOC, with a 75% stepover. We could push it more, but don't have a need to.
  11. Thank you for the responses. I think that G32 is what I was looking for.
  12. Thanks for the suggestion. I did take a look at trying to use the threadc.dll Chook. After I created a chain on the curve to select, it would give me the message that "splines not allowed in chain". I've seen some videos where they are turning on things like this, so I know it's possible, but need to figure out how to program it.
  13. As the guys above said, the finish looks uniform and the feed too high. If you could run a corner radius or better yet, use a wiper flat. Benchmark Carbide makes some.
  14. I've got a part that I believe can be turned, but don't know how I would program it to do so. It could be milled with a 4th axis, but that would be too easy and if it could be turned complete, that would be a huge savings. The part is attached. I was looking to use a Iscar full radius groove turn tool to turn the material out. Low DOC, high feed. I don't know how I would program it though and any suggestions would be appreciated. auger.SLDPRT
  15. If you have programmed everything correctly and have a good machine cutting the way you want then you wouldn't need a Y offset value. I agree with this, right now though I have a tool that is shifted in Y and need to get the parts out to buy me some time to get it back on center. Other issue is when doing work on 2 or more side of a part then you could shift a feature in a bad direction. Now you would need more than one Y offset to fix the problem you are running into. This is more of what I was looking for in an answer, the possible problems that could arise from this process. That said there seems to be a growing idea in some engineering circles that education and learning in books means a lot more than experience. Hopefully you are not falling into that mind set and I encourage someone to get an education, but a real practical education with some real world applications in that education. You are set on your course and hopefully you get it all sorted out how you need. Seeing how I was the only one to even respond to this thread tells me a lot hopefully it tells you something as well. Please keep us(me) posted how your always Y method for ever tool works out and the problems you ran into that were only solved by using this method I would love to learn something new and different. No, experience almost always trumps education. As long as the experience is spent improving and not making the same mistake over and over. I am not set on this course by any means and was merely looking to find out how others handle their lathe posts.

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